1. After 20+ years it's time to pass the torch. If you are interested in acquiring this forum please contact support@cv-performance.com for details. Any spam will be reported and blocked.
  2. Welcome to Bike Talk, a forum for all bikers and motorcycle enthusiasts. If you are new to Bike Talk, be sure to register for free and join the conversation.

    There's always someone around willing to help out with questions or give a friendly wave back. All Harley and metric riders are welcome.

90 Electra Glide CV Carburetor Re-Build

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Dennis Powell, Dec 4, 2013.

  1. Dennis Powell

    Dennis Powell Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2013
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    I recently purchased a bunch of parts from CV Performance, including the deluxe kit, to give my old carb some new life. I bought my ride new and have kept it in good shape through the years, with a minor rebuild to the carb about 15 years ago. It has been getting a bit rough, then the enrichener cable wouldn't stay out, and the adjuster wouldn't work,etc. Thus the overhaul route.

    Got the carb off the bike, disassembled, cleaned, and woops........out fell a couple of parts I couldn't figure where they were from, or where they go. A little triangular brass piece/bar about 7/16ths long, and a little ball bearing. My guess is that the ball bearing is a check valve for the Accelerator Pump nozzle....but not sure. No clue what the little brass bar is for.

    Anyone have an idea or answer?
  2. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Messages:
    453
    Likes Received:
    74
    Location:
    upstate n/y
    looked in my HD shop manual and do not see what you describe. have worked on my 94 and 2000 cv carbs and never had to remove the pump nozzle from the bowl. might guess if you removed the acc. pump nozzle from float bowl that is where they came from, the ball first then weight then nozzle to keep air flow from pulling fuel at a constant speed. not the gospel just an educated guess
  3. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2004
    Messages:
    13,682
    Likes Received:
    584
    Location:
    Mouseville USA
  4. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2005
    Messages:
    10,513
    Likes Received:
    140
    Location:
    Las Vegas NV
    Hi Dennis, the bar slide or check ball go under the accelerator pump pedestal. They are not shown on any parts diagram because they are sealed under the pedestal by the factory and are not serviceable. Typically I've only seen check balls under aftermarket pump pedestals. The pedestal should not have just fallen out unless it has been tampered with before. Normally it takes some vise grips to twist that out.

    Stock pedestal with check slide (note the thin tappered nozzle):
    [​IMG]

    Aftermarket pedestal with check ball:
    [​IMG]

    The CVP Low Profile Nozzle (uses the stock slide or checkball):
    [​IMG]
  5. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2010
    Messages:
    5,687
    Likes Received:
    167
    Location:
    Hobgood, N.C.
    No wonder I've never seen that part before. But because the factory didn't include it in the exploded view of the CV carb, no one would ever know it was there. Learned something new today, thanks Ken.
  6. Roadster guy

    Roadster guy Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2013
    Messages:
    1,186
    Likes Received:
    125
    Location:
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Thanks for the excellent illustrations, when changing part #30, any one know the torque specs for the intake manifold collar bolts #6?:confused:
  7. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2008
    Messages:
    3,861
    Likes Received:
    102
    Location:
    Cape Breton NS,Canada
    Just checked the service manual....They call them "Intake flange adapter screws" and torque in the '03 SM says 96-144 in-lbs = 8-12 ft-lbs....put a little lube on the seals like vasoline or WD40 or similar and torque each down a bit a bit at a time evenly...
    You'll want to have the carb and breather mounted to position the manifold correctly before you torque them down
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2013
  8. Roadster guy

    Roadster guy Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2013
    Messages:
    1,186
    Likes Received:
    125
    Location:
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Thank you, Lucifer.
  9. Dennis Powell

    Dennis Powell Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2013
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Finished the re-build a couple of days ago. Bike starts up great, idles great, takes off OK, though a bit slow. When I crank the throttle the response is abysmal. Really really slow to pick up the rpm's. Performance is not nearly as good as it was before starting this whole deal. Haven't had it out on the highway where I can open it up all the way to see what top end looks like, but suspect it will be poor as well. I put in the 46 and 185 jets. Had 45/195 jets in before setup. Am considering putting in the old slide and needle that I had in before and see what that does.

    Anyone have a suggestion?
  10. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2004
    Messages:
    13,682
    Likes Received:
    584
    Location:
    Mouseville USA
    sounds like the accel pumps not working...
  11. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Messages:
    453
    Likes Received:
    74
    Location:
    upstate n/y
    does it cough or hesitate or just plain lazy like throttle is not opening? could have a vac leak at top of slide diaphram causing it not to lift slide all the way then you twist your wrist.
  12. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2008
    Messages:
    3,861
    Likes Received:
    102
    Location:
    Cape Breton NS,Canada
    Yep,could be either one...take the air cleaner cover off and twist the grip to see if you get a good squirt of fuel,then start the bike,standing to the side a bit(just in case of a backfire) and goose the throttle,you should see a good squirt from the nozzle and the slide lifting if all is well
  13. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2004
    Messages:
    13,682
    Likes Received:
    584
    Location:
    Mouseville USA
    and the nozzle should be hitting in the center of the carb, not the side walls.
  14. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Messages:
    453
    Likes Received:
    74
    Location:
    upstate n/y
    looking for a follow up, what did you find .we all like to help each other with results. i still have not pulled top end of my road king but will let all know when i have a better idea and will post on that thread.
  15. Dennis Powell

    Dennis Powell Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2013
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    I adjusted the float level...it was just allowing too much fuel into the bowl. After that it ran like a gazelle.....far better than it has ever run. Starts in a heartbeat, idles great and when I crank the throttle it almost jumps out from under me. Installed a cam, after market pipes, air cleaner and ignition years ago on the bike which probably helps too. I got pretty good at removing/installing the carb without taking the seat off and all that. If you get the throttle cables loosened just right it gives enough slack to get them off the carb after you pull the carb loose from the manifold. Good light and a comfortable spot to sit/kneel helps too. Go slow and take your time and it turns into a fun project. I was in a hurry initially and screwed things up a bit. As in most things.....haste makes waste.

    This project included the following CVPerformance items: Premium Tuners Kit, Fuel Max Input Elbow, CVP Idle Screw, CVP V-Ductor, and CV Rebuild kit. I soaked the carb overnight in Pine-Sol after removing all the parts from it. Did a pretty good job of making it look like new without the nasty chemicals. Blew it out with air compressor to make sure all the orifices were clear. And if you saw my earlier posts, the ball bearing along with the triangular brass piece do fit down in the hole under the accelerator pump nozzle.
  16. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Messages:
    453
    Likes Received:
    74
    Location:
    upstate n/y
    great, we all like to think that our input has a way of helping each other .
  17. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2004
    Messages:
    13,682
    Likes Received:
    584
    Location:
    Mouseville USA
    Plus now when ya ride behind him it smells like
    yer in the south carolina pine forest

Share This Page