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94 evo rebuild

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by bambidee, Dec 17, 2011.

  1. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    Want to start my rebuild on my bike. Have a new set s/e heads #16854-98a , will pull jugs for a wiseco K1641 piston kit, compression should be 9.5. Think cam will be a red shift 559 or v thunder evl 5010 or H/Q-25 or crane h290. as the bike is a wide glide and most of the time I am one up. Think these are in the range of what would work well. Have H/D slippons , air cleaner kit and dynajet kit that I installed this summer. Looking for advice on ignition choices, would rather keep module under elec. center. What is anyones opinion on weather to do work with engine in frame or on bench? Will be replacing primary cover as slightly pitted and road rash from previous owner. Any and all advice welcomed.
  2. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    In frame would do fine why pull it ? dont know if your familiar with dtt ignition . im sure they make evo units top notch ignition. good luck and let us know how the build turns out.
  3. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes keep us up to date , I have a 94 softtail & need to replace the base gaskets , so thinking of adding a few goodies
  4. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    Looked at DTT web site, good info. They take the time to explaine the advantage of the single fire system specific to a Harley. Thanks BP. Any thoughts to my cam choices as to specs. or mfg? Will use roller tip rockers as they save a lot of push and shove on valve guides. There are a lot of economicle choices there but will most likely use S/E as roller tip or roller lifter bearing failure will kill an engine.
  5. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    your a wrench also i dont need to tell ya dont over cam this motor . keep cylinder pressure high 165 - 180 and that evo will run its ass of . you got a decent set of heads . lap them valves in when you get them i have seen evo screaming eagle heads come out the box not sealing well on the intake side . had to fix a buddys set very ugly . lol but thats another story . im not crazy about woods cams for twin cam motors . but have you check thier site for your evo . ? he has the best power makers for evos . look them up on the web brother and he has great lifters ass well . let me know whats up ! and ya dtt is the ****t . i even run my twin cam single fire ! makes the cruise super smooth and i can run it a little fatter , :cool:
  6. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    Thanks for the heads up on the heads BP, will want to put test springs in to check V/C on assy to be safe, good time to check vale job. Anyone have a min. spec on V/C if I only twist to 6000, dont want to miss a shift OOPS? Anyone use an O2 to tune a carb motor and is the front cyl. likely to be fatter or leaner than rear? I think my cv40 is enough carb cfm for motor size, think a Vducter help throttle response?
  7. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    I would use a wide band o2 off the front cylinder its allways leaner. Than the rear .again dtt is were I get my wide bands from I use them to tune ls1 builds I do at the shop . As far as valve float goes . Make sure you have enough seat pressure for the cam you are getting . 0.60 piston to valve as a min. The springs in those heads should be good double check installed height . And spring pressure
  8. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    all right gentelmen (use the term loosely) have the motor apart in the bike, jugs honed .005 ready to reassemble with S/E heads and wiesco pistons, 10.5 comp and B/W 248/ .575 lift cam. checked the valve job quality on heads, looks great, thanks for the advice to check BP. have check springs on heads to check v/c clearance after i install cam bearing. clearanced lifter blocks before i removed bearing. a lot of talk on exhaust system choice on this site, have stock head pipes with H/D slip ons that has crossover. most likely will leave that alone for now. but any opinions on a 2/1 pipe as to perf. gain or loss? a v45 is a lot different than a big block chevy with the pulse in the exhaust. also some people are pushing a mikuni 42 kit with intake manifold, have S/E air cleaner kit now. will appreciate any thoughts and advice
  9. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    Thunder header or super trap for exhaust on an evo would do great . Cv 40 is an awesome carb I would take an s.s over a makuni any day . Bigger bore and better manifold set up I knda like my carb bolted down on an evo fender shaker motor don't like the makuni way of holddown . Kinda diffrent from the cv setup as well .
  10. FLHTom1948

    FLHTom1948 New Member

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    a 2 into 1 header is the only way to go, from a performance pt. of view; the SuperTrapp is the ultimate in tuneability, with your CR at 10.5:1, and the top end cam ur running, a properly tuned 2:1 pipe willl help your midrange, or u can pull the baffle at the track, fatten up the midrange fuel mixture, for another 5 hp (see NightRider.com). No use undercarbureting ur motor after all that work: go with a 42mm Mikuni; more tunable than S&S, imo. Just use the new Mikuni intake style manifold and seals, to eliminate "coughing back" (air leak) problems.Check your valve to valve clearance at overlap, also; should be min. .062". Most racers running 6200 rpm have their crankpins welded, or things "loosen up". I like that Broadband Sensor tuning idea -gonna try it! If you don't have $200 for a DynoTune, u can try an aftermarket adjustable single-fire ignition; i like my old Crane Hi-4 -it's simple to change advance curves, total adv., dual or single-fire, etc. Good Luck to you!
  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I would absolutely make sure you have single fire iginition
    smooths out the engine...

    Can't do much with displacement unless you bore the cases to make it
    a little bigger, best bet is some head work, mild street cam (wood t-6)
    higher compression, don't put more than a cv 40 carb or super E on that
    80, just too much carb and driveability suffers..

    I wouldn't go wild, just mild and have fun...
  12. prodrag1320

    prodrag1320 Active Member

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  13. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    Have a similar build in a '90 softail...I went with the Crane h290..and a 42 Mik(it's not too much carb)
    I used a Dyna 2000i nose cone ignition in single fire mode,works very well...
    I would suggest a front brake upgrade and a torque arm on the WG to help stiffen things up...the inner primarys were prone to flexing and cracking on the rubber mounted Dyna's especially with a healthy HP boost...
  14. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    thanks to all the input from everyone. thanks veetwin, intake did not have (rain gutter /drip edge look) . thanks to BP and flhtom on exhaust and ignition. do agree with HRK and BP on carb size for throttle response. Great point on torque arm as bike is mushy on corners, not an EK but hope that would help stabilize bike on corners. wanted new wheels for this summer but thunderheader won the contest, (if you are fast enough who will see them) lol. needed valve seals after checking V/C clearance on the way. looking to start my little mouse in 2-3 weeks hoping to fool a few rats or Japanese rides this summer. i live in upstate n/y nice country to ride in anyone is welcome to visit and stay at my humble abode. looking to take the ride to dragons tail this summer, anyone else?
  15. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the props . Watch you arse on the dragon tail . That tail wips hard not for the puss riders at all make sure you tighten up the frame before you go with the hop up stabilizer bracket .that's a floor board scrapper ride for sure.! Enjoy your new build love the thunder header by the way bad ass pipe .loud but they work! Real well. Should have got one for my bagger .maybe next x mas lol.
  16. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    have heard people talk of venting crankcase into exhaust, like a vacupan system i used on drag car that has a 45 degree tip, or just a place to dump on hard accel ? any input appreciated. was getting a little oil in air cleaner, have se air cleaner kit, or maybe change to a kn washable element? t/header is on backorder- 2 weeks most likely will start bike this weekend with old exhaust, i hope
  17. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    Just. Vent it out of air cleaner. Under bike pan vac is not a good idea on a v twin unless. You. Have drag bike. You will pressurise the crank case with that. Set up on the street. With a two into one exhaust. Not running wide open all the time to build enough vacuum. For the deverter valves. To work . Its not a big block chevy .lol don't over fill the crank case it don't take much with harleys dry sump to push oil out the filter . As a matter a fact I run mine just a tad low to give room for the oil to swell . So when I ride like an ass I won't make a mess of my filter .
  18. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    started up yesterday , no leaks, sounds good, have the hot start blues. ordered starter and battery, looking at weather report, 60+ on wed but do not want to be on side of road looking stupid. (can do that without any help from a mechanical device) thunderheader not here yet, waiting patiently (yea ok ). works out ok as i need to swap out starter. this has gone way past the budget plan. i should have known better.
  19. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    Check intial timing might have to pull some out of it . Got compression release on it?
  20. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Run a second ground, to the starter, direct from the bolt mounting to the primary to the battery ground, and then from the battery ground to the frame, don't go battery, frame starter, have two good ground points to the Neg post on the battery, generally that's the issue, I had a stock HD starter out do a big inch starter on my 124 high comp SNS. 10 years old and still fired the engine better, stock starters don't pull as much power.

    You can also change the starter gear and clutch gear to get an advantage for starting.

    Check volts on the green wire, disconnect and then hook up a digital meter to the wire then ground to frame, press start button and make sure you are getting 12v to that wire at the starter too..

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