'95 FLHR problems

Loaned my '95 Road King to my son to take a 3,000 mile trip -- bike has been fine, not a lot of miles (around 11,000). Bike performed great for the first 2/3 rds of the trip, but then started some engine problems that seem to be temperature related -- would run great at first, but as time went on would start to give indications like it was starving for gas and the engine may die -- pull over and the engine starts right up, then you can repeat the senerio. Through numerous phone calls with my son, we methodically at different stops had the carburetor checked (cleaned, set, new fuel line, and valve and tank strainer inspected -- all OK), replaced the sensor, had the plug wires and coil replaced, and installed a new ignition module. He limped home -- still have the same problem. Don't think the problem can be gas related. I'm thinking it must be an electrical problem with the wiring harness -- grounding, broken wire, etc -- but can't explain the temperature relationship to the problem -- it still starts right up and runs fine until it gets warmed up. I've thought of a lot of things to try (running a hot wire to the coil, etc.) to try to isolate it, but thought I'd ask if anyone has had similiar problems or has any input. I would greatly appreciate your input.

Thanks, Stan

I had a friend that had the lining on the inside of the gas tank start to peel off, he had the same symptoms as you describe. He had several dealers look at it. He brought the bike over and we took the carb off and then took it apart. We found a piece of tank liner in the float needle seat. We blew the hole out real good and 3 years latter he has not had that problem again.

Had the same problem years ago on my 92 clasic, did the same as yours, I started replacing parts. finaly bike quit end wouldn't restart turned out to be the ignition pickup in the nose cone. Not saying that you are having the same problem but thats what fixed mine. Let us know what you find out.

Good Luck

Yup! that's the first thing that came to mind for me too. The manual even says something like - take a hair drier and, run the engine and blow hot air on the ignition, if it stalls - you know what you got to do.

Here's the status to date: Decided to put it up on a stand and really go through it -- checked the voes -- comes in right at the correct vaccum and the line from the carb is good. Wanted to check the timing that the guy who replaced the sensor had it on and discovered my timing light has a problem -- need to get another one -- will do the heat check on the sensor even though it has been replaced. Ordering a new stage 1 kit for the carb -- just to be on the safe side -- will check vacuum diaphram and everything else while in there. So while these items are coming, I'll do some checking of the wiring harness and get a line to the coil so that I can get voltage directly to it -- a step in eliminting items -- checking/changing breakers and relalys. Looks like it is going to stay on the stand for now -- will make a comment of the end results of all of this, but it may take a little while. Thanks for your input.

Bike is back on the road -- after a lot of miles and tweaking here and there, I'm putting and "APPROVED" stamp on it. While waiting for carb jetting from Ken and a new timing light (timing was off quite a bit), did a lot of checks on the wiring harness (there are a lot of procedure checks in the service manual) -- found no problems there (really checked hard for a broken wire or bad plug connection). Put new intake manifold gaskets on, did a carb rejetting with the new kit, said a small prayer and it started right up! Have the idle jet set at 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 turns -- been playing between there and 2 1/2 turns -- seems to accelerate better at 2 1/2 -- still working on some very slight popping on full throttle closed deacceleration from high speed, but not a real problem -- if I hold just a touch of throttle in it I get no popping -- was told to check the exhausts gaskets -- replaced them with new SE ones -- old ones were seated fine. Anyway, bottom line, bike runs great now, but can't put my finger on what the problem was -- I feel it must have been in the carb somehow, but with the new jetting, etc. it runs great. Thanks for all your comments, Stan

I was going through some things on mine last week too. I had been struggling with timing for a while and trying to use a timing light on that plastic view plug just didn't work for me. I located the two leads from the ignition pick up and used small paper clips to insert them into the connector at the ignition module. I hooked the paper clips up to a volt meter and with the front cylinder at TDC I rotated the ignition pickup to where the voltmeter went from 0VDC to 5VDC and locked it in right there. This made a BIG difference to how it starts and runs. I have confidence that I am at as close to perfect setting as I could be without any guessing. No timing light or plastic plug needed.

If anyone tries it this way be sure you tape off the paper clips so they NEVER short out.

Just my $0.02

Did you learn this the hard way? :roflmao: ouch

Nope! I do everything perfectly.

At least - this time I did

Went round and round with my 88 fxr, would run great till it get warmed up and then it would start to pop and bang like someone was taking shots at ya. Turned out to be the pickup in the nose cone after it got hot. Put a heat gun on it in the garage wilst it ran an sure enough the problem showed up. Replaced pickup and have 8000 miles without problems since.

This intrigued me so I set the Road King timing with a volt meter and checked it with the plastic plug and timing light -- it was right on -- no more timing light for me -- I'll do it this way from now on -- and much easier to do.