Another Carb Question

I picked up a 2005 FLHTC a few weeks back. The bike has less than 9,000 mi on her. The previous owner installed an "Open Element Air Cleaner" and Vance N Hines Mufflers. The Vance N Hines were just way too quiet and got ditched for a set of Rush mufflers. The bike has the stock pipes. When I got the bike she idled too fast at about 1300 when hot. I was able to get the idle down to about 1000 when hot, but with the more open breathing rush pipes, I get a lot of popping both between gears and on decelleration. The previous owner already re-jetted the carb and knocked out the mixture screw plug. Since the bike soon developed oil leaks on both rocker boxes (Why does a bike with only 9000 mi do this?) the dealer agreed to fix it under warranty. Since that meant the tank had to come off I asked the dealer to rejet the carb (not knowing then the previous owner had already done so) when I went to pick up the bike I was told both the main jet and slow jet had been changed from original by the first owner and that the "mechanic" re-jetted again this time to a 210 main and a 45 slow (i might have the wrong number on the slow jet). Per the "Mechanic" he was afraid to go any bigger on the main. The bike still pops between gears and on decel...but not as bad as before. I'm not all that impressed with the mechanic as he tried to tell me the new bikes just idle higher than the older ones and that my high idle was within acceptable limits. I'm sure I'll find a vacum leak when I check for one and once I fix that my new jets will be way too fat. Any suggestions on a starting point for jet size once I correct the vacum leak?

PS sorry for the long wind up ...Aloha...Mike

You're right about a vacuum leak...and lack of faith in the "mechanic"....210 is way too big and isn't what needed replacement....

Once you cure the air leak,start with a 45 pilot and 180 main...then you'll want to set your idle mixture...2 1/2 turns out from gently seated is a good starting point....

If you get your best/smoothest idle between 1 and 3 turns out the pilot is good...less than 1 turn out you'll need a smaller pilot,if more than 3 turns you'll need a larger pilot jet...Do this test each time you change jets....you're on the needle from about 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle and I'll bet that's where the problem is... CVP Basic kit is a good kit with a different tapered needle...
CVP Harley Basic Tuners Kit - CV Performance
N65C needle was a popular one and fixed the problem you have most times,but I think it's obsolete now(CVP has his own version available)
here's a list of HD needles if you want to try that route...
http://bike-talk.com/forum/tech-tips/14983-cv-needle-information.html

I'll take a stab at what you'll find works...45 or 46 pilot, CVP needle and a 180 or 185 main jet...
A couple of other guys here can probably give you a little more accurate info...but IMO your pilot ,needle and idle mix is where you'll need the tuning....and a smaller than 210 main jet
Good luck...keep us posted

Oh yeah,an exhaust leak can cause decel popping too....

The fact that the wrench went to the 210 main tells me the neddle was coming in late ! My 02 had a factory 195 main ! And 45 slow speed . I would be looking at cv needle put there 195 and 45 slow and kens spring in there don't drill the slide ! Set your thumb screw at 1200 adjust air fuel screw till the motor idles smooth . Set idle 1000 rpm and ride it reset idle again after highway ride takes quite a bit of time to get the motor to operating temp you will find that after a highway ride of twenty min the idle hangs high and you will have to lower it again. Good luck let us know how you make out

Sprayed Break Clean all over the intake/carb today.....no indication what so ever of a vacum leak. I ordered the CVP kit anyways, it should be here next week. I have noticed the idle isin't a steady idle. It kinda surges up and down about 200 rpm. Like 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then drops to about 800 rpm for about 3-5 seconds then back up to 1000 to start the process over again. I'm starting to wonder if the previous owner tried doing more to this carb than just knocking out the plug and re-jetting. I don't work on these new bikes enough to know.....is there any chance I could swap carbs from my '90 FLTCU?

Aloha....Mike

Yep,you can swap carbs,there is a nipple on the '90 carb for the VOES just cap that,the newer bikes have a MAP sensor on the manifold...then check the port in the slide to see if it was drilled to 1/8" or larger,also check the size of the pilot jet,I believe too rich can cause idle surging too...

At this point I would be taking the accel pump apart and inspecting that to see if the diaphragm is shiit or not. Then I would be closely inspecting the rubber diaphragm that is attached to the slide as it is common for people to get that pinched and poke a hole in it. I can't remember where I had heard or read that if that diaphragm is in bad shape, surging will occur.