Another timing question

guys i have searched here, shovelheadusa and beyond and cannot find my answer. it may be too simple...dunno

as reference here are my andrews ab #'s
intake exhaust
open close open close
21 43 50 26
duration duration
244 256

overlap......47 lift............. .450

question is what to set my timing at ? i have weighted dyna (no numbers) ignition. 2 wires to my coil.

i need an idiots guide to setting this. i mean is this cam supposed to run advanced of oem, or retarded.

Wish I could help. If you couldn't find it on ShovelheadUSA, I don't know where. Maybe Lucifer can help you. He knows things or knows how to find things. Good luck!

Did some innernet searching...couldn't find anything specific....I can't see why you wouldn't set the ignition timing the same as stock...TDC on front cyl compression and line up the dots for the cam timing....I did find if you have trouble kicking it over to retard the ignition,too far advanced and kicking it could cause you some personal pain:injured:
Set it up the same as you had it with the stock cam and see how it runs,it's supposed to be a bolt in,but maybe check clearances to be sure...looks to me with an intake close of 43* it would come in at around 3000RPM's,ignition timing wouldn't change that...Chuck or Kirby could tell you a lot more than me about Shovel cams though,I've never been inside a Shovel yet,so I'd have a lot of questions too,if and when I do....Good luck,don't over think it

overthinking is exactly what i have been doing. thanks. my plans were to static time it and see how it does. it was hard to kick before, but that was cause i had a fouled plug, never offered to kick back at me after that was replaced.

well boys valve train timing and ignition timing are totaly diffrent from one another . but they do work in conjunction ! as far as valve timing goes set the cams strait up just like it calls for in the book . cam and motor are to small to spend the time to degree the cams in witch in reality is the best way to do it and truely find top dead center but the small motor does not justify having to go and spend the time and labor . if the cam has more overlap and duration than stock you will find the motor might like a little more initial advance but dont go crazy with it . maybe one or two deg. the advance might need to be backed off some. most of the time stock setting will be fine . it all depends on the static compresion . i think with the later intake close on the cam you will find it needs to be bumped advance a little so as not to be lazy coming out of the hole .

makes sense to me...thanks

There ya go....I don't think there's an internal combustion engine made BP doesn't know about...
The little hash marks on the ignition plate,are they supposed to represent 2* each???

That my friend I don't remember ya got to look it up . And I'm sure it all depends also on the ignition system installed how many deg of change per adjustment.

Cool, will do...I remember experimenting with my Evo when it had the stock pick up plate in it,but when I put the Dyna 2000i in I just set it up straight up and used the selectable curves...prolly coulda played a little more with it, but my eyes,ears and knowledge ain't that great...

did the same thing with my hot rod sporty . did all my adjustments off the box set the pick up factory.

seems to me over the years of playing with tractor motors they dont mind cylinder pressure but they dont like to much timing . when cold they like it as soon as they build temp they start to vibrate more when you add too much and sometimes to much seems to me 3 deg or so is a huge change on the air cooled motors harleys are very picky with timing . those cams i was running in the bagger were forgiving to a point but when i put to much initial at them it would rip ass till she got fully warmed up then she would start to get angry you could feel it in the bars performance would not drop off but we all know how are bikes feels when its happy . i made a radical change with the cam set up on the bagger last week and am running 10 deg less timing at wide open and 6 deg more at cruise and the bike is very happy runs cooler and pulls harder than ever . alot of that seems to me is the over lap in the valve train timing and the amount of corrected comp . timing can either make you smile or cry one of the hardest parts of tunning is timing every motor is diffrent when it comes to timing.just gotta tred lightly!and monitor temps close!!!!!!! exhaust temp is a look at whats going on inside the combustion chamber!

ok...so i was running a lil warm on my exhaust, and the ab cam is supposed to give you a cooler exhaust. does that mean i need to retard a lil bit ??

How's your air fuel ratio ? 13.5 14.0 ?

that i do not know.. super e with a/f screw about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 turn out from gentle seat. i have not trimed the cover, but thought about it. how is the best way to accurately measure mixture, or is that strictly a jet thang ? it had an 068, but it was real sluggish about 3500 rpm. i just replaced it with an 065, that is what s & s recommends for a stock 74". of course i am running unbaffled drag pipes, but i have a new set of 8" baffles to install if needed. all advice will be greatly appreciated.

wide band air fuel ratio gauge is the best way if not plug choping but kinda hard to read plugs with todays fuel if your gonna do the plug read . its gonna be hard ! and take them drag pipes and throw them in the trash . you are giving up all kinds of torque . sticking baffles in them aint much better . a good set of pipes with mufflers is the best advise i can give ya . and trust me on this you will try to get them pipes to work but after all the labor and money you throw at them they will NEVER run as good as a muffler set of pipes . dont know if you can find a good 2-1 for that shovel any more but if you do and you put it on you will think you put a diffrent motor in that bike when your done . or a nice steped muffler system on that shovel . you will be super happy it will be the best money you have ever spent !

try to find a thunder header part # 1020 FITS SHOVEL LATE 69 - 83 WITH OUT FLOOR BOARDS

i am on the lookout for stock pipes, will purchase as soon as i find some. dont really want 2 into 1. thanks for the help.

Thunderheader is an excellent performing pipe...but you'd have to move your floorboards ahead 2" to make them work(if you want to keep the floorboards)
PAUGHCO makes a 2-1 head pipe,not a true collector 2 into 1,but better than drag pipes,then you have your choice of slip on mufflers....this is what i'm planning on putting on my Shovel if I ever get it done

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/280950537643?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

and this slip on for a traditional look...

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/230831975463?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

The system might not perform as well as a true 2 into1 collector pipe but it should perform a lot better than drags and you won't suffer the bottom end loss of torque and it should be a little easier to dial in the carb....JMHO of course

Ya he will be able to run less slow jet temps will come down cause. Mid range and cruise won't lean out cams will come off the bottom better .

what about these...

735D PAUGHCO TRUE DUALS EXHAUST HEAD PIPES HARLEY SHOVELHEAD 1970-1984 | eBay

or these...

1.75" Independent Dual Crossover Chrome Header Pipes for FLH Shovelhead 1970-84 | eBay

maybe with these...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Knucklehead...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bf3beaf4&vxp=mtr