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Anybody have this happen??

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by voodoochild, Apr 12, 2011.

  1. voodoochild

    voodoochild New Member

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    Ok boys.....so I'm cruising down the hwy (75-80mph) and start to get a weird feel from the bike when I'm on and off the throttle. Then I start hearing a noise like somebody threw a beer bottle in my primary. I manage to get off the hwy without getting run down and pull off to the side. Hmm, noise increases with engine rpm, and definitely coming from primary. I limp the bike to my buddies place where we remove the primary cover....Low and behold my comp nut is almost off!! Now, it's been 5 years and 11K miles since I did my 240 conversion and I know for a fact that I torqued that nut properly. How the hell does a comp nut come loose!?!? (The noise was the comp nut flopping around and rubbing the inside of the cover) We cleaned everything, used red loctite and re-assembled and she seems to be ok, but what the hell?? :confused: Good thing for my buddy Paul, he saved my azz, and props to my other buddies wife who just happened to drive by when I was broke down and follow me to Pauls......
  2. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    Good friends are hard to come by, your fortunate. Glad you were able to put it back together without any other problems. I had a oil leak from up front on a trip to AZ to meet up with Sleepy and others from Bike Talk. It did not make any noise and I was close to the Nut and Bolts dealership in Boise so got it in there. They opened it up and found also that the comp nut was loose. Mine was also leaking oil from up in that area and had some damage to the shaft, your lucky. Mine had also stripped some of the treads and they were able to lock tight it back on with loctite. Mechanic told me that the factory did not use any loctite on it. It was fine after that.

    I have heard of others coming loose, and do recommend loctite on it. You were lucky cause if it gets to loose or come off, your gonna be spending a lot of money.
  3. Red Rider

    Red Rider Well-Known Member

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    Mine got loose, too, after only 40K miles. And though it did sound like the engine was going to be trashed, after finding it was the compensator and replacing it (not just re-installing it) I've had absolutely no problems since. The whole evolution only cost $80, so it was a happy day considering I was thinking I'd probably need a new engine after hearing all that rattling from down there.

    :cheers:
  4. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep
    Had one punch the center out of the rotor too,

    You need to be sure it's spaced properly, clean and
    when you loctite you really need to let the bolt setup for 24 hours
    minimum for the loctite to cure.

    It gets hot down there so be sure it's got adequate fluid to keep it cool
    locktite liquifies with heat..

    You might consider a new nut,
  5. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Getting ready to put the compensator on my shovel. It's the type where the bolt won't come off the cover - bolt and cover come off in one piece. Manual says for my year motor to torque to 400 ft. pds. But other years ('72 and earlier) the torque is 170 ft. pds. What gives with this wide margin of torque ranges? Another thing, I'm not sure what year the compensator is.
  6. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    400 sounds way out of spec for any year except a top fuel bike
  7. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    Wow 400 pounds sounds to much. My 01 Springer is 150-165 Ft pounds. Like said make sure its clean and add a couple drops of red loctite. Mine also says a Primary Drive Locking Tool is required.
  8. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    400 is way over the limit....recheck the book, or get another book and double check......
    i will check my comp. sprocket yearly. i remove it, clean, reinstall it. year end maint........
  9. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    year end? :wtf:
  10. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    ya, we have about 2 weeks of winter down here.......gets pretty chilly!!!!!!! bout 35 degrees or so............to chilly to ride so i go through the bike.........
  11. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    35* can be a heat wave up here.
  12. voodoochild

    voodoochild New Member

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    Well....at least I'm not alone. I thought it was strange and very happy it didn't trash anything else. I pulled over pretty quick when I started hearing that noise though....

    Thx for the responses guys.
  13. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    What is a primary drive locking tool? BTW, I looked in my 70 thru early 78 service manual (part no. 99482-78) and in the torque requirements on page 1-5 it says: sprocket shaft nut 1970 to 1971....170 ft-lbs. 1972 and after 400 ft-lbs. The reason I'm quoting all this stuff is so you guys don't think I've lost my mind! I also thought 400 was way too much. Had to be a misprint.
  14. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    primary locking tool= wooden hammer handle. to acuire 400 ft lbs you would need a 3/4 torque wrench.....1/2 drives dont usually go past 250.
  15. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    The wooded handle-block of wood is used to hold it in place while you torque it down so it don't move on you. That 3/4 torque wrench is going to need to be about 4 foot long to. I would not trust that book could be a misprint. Call or visit your dealer and talk to the service dept. before you torque it to 400 foot pounds.
  16. sarge7

    sarge7 New Member

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    400# ought be just about enough to strip the threads off real good.
    As for the Nut coming loose it happened to me and the result was one tranny gettin repaired - locked me up real quick when it let loose.
    I'd get a second opinion on the torque specs it does sound like a misprint.
    Also if you use a hammer handle you will be buyin a few more hammers than ya need to - I cut a wedge out of a piece of oak and use it the wood is harder than the ash or popular handle of a hammer so it lasts longer.
  17. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    A small rubber sanding block works well to.
  18. voodoochild

    voodoochild New Member

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    I just wedged a small piece of pine in there and it was fine.....I was in a buddy's driveway and that's all we had.... :)
  19. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Chuck... you'd need at least a 3/4" drive probably 1"drive and a 4' torque wrench to get 400 ft-lb...if you tried that on your comp nut you'd either flip the bike over or strip the crank shaft....my service manual for '03 says 150-165 ft-lbs for the comp nut...I've used a ball of rags, block of wood and the "hamster stairs" primary locking tool....I was never a fan of sticking a metal bar in the sprocket teeth.
  20. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    I've got lots of old oak scraps laying around and I'll go that route. I love the low tech way of doing things! As for torque on the nut - it had to be a misprint 'cause everybody I've talked with says 170 ft. lbs. is plenty for any year. I'll be going to the Harley dealership in Rocky Mount next week to get a final opinion.

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