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basecoat clearcoat

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by oldevo, Oct 21, 2005.

  1. oldevo

    oldevo New Member

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    im gonna paint my tanks and fenders on my 84fxst. ive always used single stage paint, but my buddy talked me into trying basecoat clearcoat. i was wondering if anyone could give me any pointers before i get started? thanks
  2. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    if repairs are needed, sandblast the tin, dont work over someone elses work cause you are asking for trouble.
    if the tins are in good shape, wash and dry them. then use a good wax and grease remover.
    use a red scotchbrite pad to skuff the surface and give it a dull look.
    wash and dry, then use a wax andgrease remover. you can not get it to clean.
    prime the tins
    sand the tins
    apply the base coat.....i use 3 coats, one light, two medium.
    sand the basecoat
    apply the clearcoat....i use a minimum of 3 coats, no more than 5.
    sand the clearcoat
    cut and buff the clearcoat.
    this is a condensed version of how it is done, as it sound like your buddy has a bit of knoledge on the subject.....any questions.......just ask
    chuck
  3. maxpower_hd

    maxpower_hd Active Member

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    I may be attempting a paint job this winter as well so I am stealing some info from this thread. I assume you mean wet sanding after prime, base and clear coats. Is that between every coat or just after each step? Also, I understand buffing but what do you mean by cut and buff?

    Thanks for the free advice.
  4. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    yes, i mean wet sanding. i use 800 wet and dry then switch to a finer if needed...usually 1000 to1500. i do this between steps, but not after priming. i dry sand with a red scotchbrite pad after priming, to cut the overspray and get the tins smooth. cut and buff is wet sanding with 2000 to 2500 wet and dry, then using a buff.....( i use an air powered one that runs at 1800rpm and is about 3inch in dia) buff the sand marks out......the sand marks will be very fine and not take a lot to get rid of them. you dont want to burn through, which is easy with a big buffer. you dont want to go over 3500rpm. hope this helps.......if not ask away......
    chuck
  5. maxpower_hd

    maxpower_hd Active Member

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    Sounds clear enough. I'll let you know whem I jump in if have any questions.

    Thanks for the clarification.
  6. Seahag

    Seahag New Member

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    Great to have a painter around here. Hey Chuck...This winter I'm going to be pulling my inner fairing off, which has lots of sunbleached spots on the ABS plastic. The plan is to use the new Krylon "fusion" paint which is supposed to bond with plastics. I'd like the job to come out professional looking like the CVO electraglide inner fairings. Do you have some tips for me?
  7. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i have not used the "fusion" paints in a spraycan, so i dont know ifit will work or not. what i have used is "bull dog adheason promoter". it is available in rattle can form or quarts. for your applacation i would use the rattlecan. strip the dash of all componets you can, then tape what you cant. clean the dash with a good grease and wax remover. i use omni brand mx190 it is made by ppg. use a grey scotchbrite pad very lightly, you dont want to scratch anything, just skuff it a little bit. the grey pad is a higher grit than the red pad. clean the dash again with the cleaner. spray the adheason promoter on the dash, and follow the directions on the can. then spray the dash with your favorite paint. if you want a flat color, use a flat paint. krylon or rustoleum is a great rattlecan paint for small jobs...i prefer the rustoleum, but get good results from krylon.......dont push the paint, read the directions and follow them, and let them cure as per directions and you will have a quality paint job. dont use harsh cleaners on the plastics unless you have tested it first....some may melt away........
    chuck
  8. Killer-B

    Killer-B New Member

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    Seahag, I tried using that Krylon fusion on my frame and swing-arm,(can not afford a real paint job), it looked nice but, turned out brittle. Almost every time I tapped it with an wrench it would chip. Errrrr, BUT, it did a great job sticking to my plastic trash can. :D
  9. CD

    CD Guest

    Now, ain't that the truth! We are getting an excellent selection of experts here that help out.:cool:
  10. Seahag

    Seahag New Member

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    I would immagine thats why they advertise it for plastics :p :D If it sticks to the trash can, it should work nicely on my inner fairing.
  11. Killer-B

    Killer-B New Member

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    It’s advertised that it will stick on anything, it just did a real job of sticking to plastic. :D
    What’s a couple of chips in the paint,,, I think it was more me, than the paint being brittle, now that I really think of it.
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2005

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