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Black Widow Cams

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by cardboard, Jan 16, 2010.

  1. cardboard

    cardboard Well-Known Member

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  2. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    order a set and we will put em in yours then do a test!!!!!!!!!
  3. sarge7

    sarge7 New Member

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    like chucks idea there cardboard - you spend the money and we get the reports -:roflmao:
  4. cardboard

    cardboard Well-Known Member

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    Guess you want me to git out of the House and git a Job huh.

    Tell chuck to go and git a Job somewhere besides his garage and I will go.

    Can't work till 12:00 and go in and git back on the couch and go to sleep.:D

    That's my job too.
  5. cardboard

    cardboard Well-Known Member

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    Found out today, Crane used to grind the cams out of Andrews blanks till Crane went out of business.
    S&S bought up crane.
  6. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    Can't say who does the best job making cams for the single & twin-cam engines, but I can with respect to 4-cam Sportsters & BT's - a combination of H-D & Zippers Performance. I found out about that while choosing components for my 100" Sportster-based engine - all aftermarket Sportster cams whine, except Red Shift's & the reason is the gears on the end aren't cut as precisely. Seems H-D spent like 16 years developing the machine tools / processes & nobody does it better.

    So what Zippers does is grind the lobes off a matched set of stock cams, make new lobes on CNC equipment, then press those on & weld, although they'll ship 'em unwelded if you want to play with the timing yourself before you decide on the final position of the lobe on the shaft. But the point is that when you install the new cams, you know the gears mesh perfectly because they were a matched set from the factory to begin with - only the lobe shape has been changed.
  7. cardboard

    cardboard Well-Known Member

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    Woods sells some gears that will not make the noise
    but you are going to have to pay for them

    that's another reason on vtwins to
    go with the new style chain drive
  8. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Gear drives whine because of endplay on the mainshaft and
    the fit of the gears.

    SNS, Andrews, Woods etc all sell over and undersized pinon gears
    the key is to properly setup lash, too tight - whine, possible gear breakage
    too loose, chatter...

    On Evos we used to press the old HD gears off of the stock cam and put it
    back on the new cam, theory being the gears have mated (worn together)
    and will fit best and least amount of noise, everyone I have done
    have worked well that way.

    HD twin cam gears never touch each other, they run by chain, doesn't matter if its a 99 or 09, it's got a chain. So gear noise and mating them up isn't necessary.

    Woods also sells a "silent drive" belt drive..

    Anyway I asked about BW cams as well, seems folks are reading the AI article (that's where you saw the 15 hp bolt in increase right?) LOL

    My only question especially with todays supertuners is the availability of
    base maps for that combo as they are a small supplier, you have a Tmax or TTS or PC5 then you have to find a map for a competitors cam and work from there.

    Lots of maps out there for Kuryakyn, Woods, SnS, etc...

    Also what else did they do, heads? Raise compression?
  9. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    Spec question

    For you guys familiar with the Twin Cam engines - a friend of mine recently bought an '06 Fatboy after the dealership modified it according to what the previous owner wanted. He e-mailed me a list of what they did, but it doesn't include the cam timing specs, other than .635" lift & 60º intake closing. But I do have the part # so maybe y'all can give me the rest of the details:

    SE 264 cams; PN 25133-04

    Thanx​
  10. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    This is outta the SE catalog


    SE-264 25133-04 Lift .635"/.635"-Duration 264˚/262˚- Intake: 24˚ BTDC/60˚ ABDC
    Exhaust: 60˚ BBDC/22˚ ATDC
    TDC lift@ valve-0.219"/.211"
    This cam is designed around large displacement and high
    RPM engines. This cam should be used with high compression,
    performance heads, and open intake and exhaust. This
    is our highest power cam when used with 110+ and CNC
    ported heads
  11. cardboard

    cardboard Well-Known Member

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    What you want out of a Cam is one that will go from Point A to Point B the fastest.

    And all the high lift ain't necessarly gonna do that.
  12. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    Thanks, Lucifer! Now I know what he's dealing with.

    It certainly wouldn't be my cam choice, nor his, for riding around on the roads in this area, but he doesn't have $$$ to spend on a cam change right now, so we'll just get the engine dialed in as good as we can with what he's got & the detailed cam specs tell me what I need to know.
  13. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    Pretty radical cam there,I don't know much about the big inch engines, but it seems to me to be a top end cam even for a 110", would be way out there in a 96".
    Sure is a far cry from the Crane HTC300-2 I'm putting in my 88"cop king
    CRANE CAMS
    HTC-300-2... Dur-226/236 Lift-.505"/.505" Int O/C- 13 / 33 Exh O/C-42 / 14

    Good luck dialing it in, let us know how you make out giving the bike some street manners:devil:
  14. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Art what else did they do to the engine

    If they stroked and bored it out to a 110 then that cam is
    good, if they took him to 103 (bolt on cyl and pistons) it's
    a big cam for that size engine but should work

    He'll have more mid to upper RPM power.....

    Probably won't hit until 3K
  15. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    My friend got the bike with this setup, HRK:

    * 95" cylinders, 10.5:1 SE pistons (22439-00A);
    * SE heads with 2" intakes, "reduced" exhaust (don't know the diameter) & "redesigned" combustion chambers (16933-99B);
    * the SE 264 cams I mentioned (25133-04);
    * 45mm carb (28040-02), jetted #25, #30, #65;
    * single fire coils with 6200 rpm module;
    & the bike came with 2 sets of drag pipes - my friend has taken the 2" pipes off, put the 1 3/4" on & put baffles in 'em.

    That's what the previous owner wanted & what dealer gave him, although they told him the 257 cams would be better. But it is what it is & until my friend's got some "mad money" to spend, we'll just have to deal with it! He said they dyno'd it & peak power is 4000-5000 rpm, making the most @ 4500, which is pretty much what I'd expect.

    Weather's been too cold & wet for him to ride it much @ all, but it's eating spark plugs in no time & from his description of 'em (haven't seen the bike in person yet, photo below), the "reversion" monster was really showing up with the unbaffled 2" drag pipes - no surprise there! But he hasn't had a bike in a very long time, so he's excited & we'll get it going good by the time we get some decent weather.

    Attached Files:

  16. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I might have a set of 06 take out cams from a buddies CVO bagger I think they are 253's with less lift and duration. they came out of a 103.

    JMO if he can get his hands on a set of woods tw-6H cams that combination should be a tq monster and will light the rear tire up at any RPM..

    It's really too much cam for the 95, that's a good cam in a 110 or very hot 103.

    I'd check his cranking compression I bet it's too light for the cam as well..

    Those drag pipes suck but you know that...

    If he has stock headers a set of inexpensive cycle shack slip ons will help.

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