Bummer! Help?!?!

I finally finished the install of the deluxe stage 1 tuners kit. The ez has to be at least 5 turns out and still it runs rough, very rough. I went with the directions and put in the 48/195 combo. It was already 48 but with a 185.

Also installed the V-Ductor. I used two gaskets for this, one on each side. Which required some washers between the air filter plate and the breather cross over. Otherwise the carb got tilted upward.

Also used the kit for new mixture packing spring and o-ring.

Since I was totally breaking down the carb, I installed a new accelerator spring along with two new o-ring and a new accel diaphragm.

Just a run down the street and I have to come back and fiddle with the ez. I know this shouldn't be this way. The original 48/185 was running ok but had certain rpm vibration issues.

I sprayed WD40 at the manifold seals and carb seal (which is new) to check for intake leaks, and no change in idle. I even asked my wife to come outside and listen, but still nothing.

So I'm sorry for the post but I'm dissapointed in the outcome. Either my work on the carb was shoddy or something in the parts isn't working properly.

Please help. We're sheduled to take a long ride with friends up the coastline tomorrow, and I can't run it lie this.

I'm hoping to hear from Ken, as he would know his parts better than me!

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Robert

The pilot jet is the same as you had, I’d try using the stock idle adjustment screw and see how that works. That can be done without removing the carb. You did a lot of changes all at one time. Maybe strip the carb back to without the V-ductor and start again. I don’t use an EZ adjust idle screw because once it is set you generally don’t have to mess with it anymore. Hard to diagnose from here. . Sounds like it is all in the tuning. Ken’s parts are top quality, I’m sure they are not the problem.

No, no, I don't think it's the quailty of the parts either. I think the parts and the entire kit are very well made. Hats off. Maybe it the parts 'choice', or like you said Harley, maybe too much at one time?

I put all the info so anyone with experience in this area could help.

I have looked at the carb 50 times since 2pm, and I can't think of why.

If the carb is tilting it something do with the mounting hardware not the v-ductor, What air filter system are you using. I have a v-ductor on the stock box airfilter housing with only a K&N filter in it and I have with a early Screaming Eagle with a K&N air fliter. neither of which trys to tilt in any direction. use some greae on the intake rubber gasket when you go to slide the carb back in it makes it a lot easier.
what ever happens keep us informed as to the out come.

I'm attaching pictures to two posts

So what I mean by spacers is....the thickness of the V-Ductor and two gaskets pushes the backing plate out forward from the breather conector bar. You can see in the photos the space I'm referring to. So I used a split washer on each side to compensate for the space. Otherwise the top of the backing plate was getting tilted to the top rear and was pulling the bottom of the carb away from the new carb/manifold seal. I'm thinking this isn't the reason for the poor running because it a looks even top to bottom.

I also checked for manifold leaks and carb leaks with some WD40 and the idle stayed true.

Another note that I forgot in the above post. I replaced the little rubber plug for the MAP Sensor.

Ken: I checked for the collar before installing the parts and it was there. (I'm pretty sure!) Does the V-Ductor need two gaskets front and rear of it? What would you do in this case as far as the space it creates above?

I'll have to tear it down and double check everything. I must have missed something??

ps: how soon do the pics show up?

Pictures don't show up,
You haven't said what backing plate you are using, is it a Harley part or aftermarket? something just don't sound right.

Harley,

I'm the second owner. It has the original football on it so I think it is the
HD backing plate with the K&N stage one filter. I'll change my sig pic to show you for the time being until the pics come up.

the cover don't mean much, i have four different ones that i change out periodically all mounted the same way.
when you are adding a picture go down to manage attachments and add them that way

Does the new sig pic help?

That is the same backing plate I use. This particular one is a Screamin Eagle part. They have been redesigned for newer bikes. I’d try taking the gaskets off each side of the v doctor. Also pull the carb out and put a little grease on the carb and slide it back in, the carb may just not be seating good. With the rubber on the carb manifold fitting can get torn or bunched up and not seal or fit good, like Ken said you should check the diaphragm on the slide. Maybe start the project all over, tear it down and put it back together very carefully.
web site for CV Carb - 2005 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy FLSTF OEM Parts, 2005 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy FLSTF OEM Motorcycle Parts - BikeBandit.com

Closer look at the picture shows me that this backing plate is even older than mine, it looks one that I had for an Evo motor.

That plate has been on since 2001 when the put the ac and Samson slip-ons on

Does anyone know how long it takes for the above photos to be seen?

Sorry, I thought they'd be easily visible after a certain amount of time. Is there an easier way of showing photos?