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Cams

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by jayel79, Jun 14, 2008.

  1. jayel79

    jayel79 New Member

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    hello im new to this site hoping to get some help with my bike. ive got an 05 night train with 88tc thats very slow. can i add some cams pipe carb air filter and get a good jump? i dont want to convert it to 96. can i do the cams in my drive way
  2. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    Yes you can do it in the driveway but changing cams would not be wise. "Paying the Harley Tax" involves a freer-flowing air-cleaner, quality slip-on mufflers & rejetting the carb so the engine can breathe, but cams are always a compromise - you must give up one thing to get another. As many bad things that may be said about the MOCO, their knowledge of cam timing ain't one & unless you want to target a given rpm range & know all about lift, duration, intake opening/closing, exhaust opening/closing, overlap, etc., cams you do not want to mess with.
  3. jayel79

    jayel79 New Member

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    i understand that cams can really get messy but i would go to shop to get the right size for my app. i just want to be able to work on my own bike. and i would be switching to a gear drive set up. do still think its a bad idea? and whats moco?
  4. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    The stock cams work quite well in most "daily driver" applications & "MOCO" refers to the "Motor Company" - Harley-Davidson. The gear-drive setup is definitely better, but to get an engine to run right for a given application, you MUST think "system" rather than individual parts. There's more power to be found in the heads than anywhere else & given the choice of spending $$$ on cams or headwork, I'll take the headwork every time.

    Aftermarket cams are usually designed for more top-end HP, but cams are always a compromise & to get more top-end HP you have to give away low-rpm torque. And the more you go with increased lift, duration & overlap, the narrower your powerband gets. For example, my 1650 Sportster race engine makes 167 HP @ 7200 rpm, but if I were to set the rev-limiters @ 4500 rpm, my 883 Sportster would beat the race bike.

    Throwing things like "hotter" cams, the biggest carb with the "fattest" jets, etc. on didn't work 40 years ago & truly I'm amazed to see it promoted now. Your 88" TC will come apart before you can use "hot" cams & the valvetrain is one reason why - the pushrods running @ wierd angles will bend. Not might, will. Wonder why pro big twin racers use a 4-cam Sportster type setup ?

    You'll get more useable power from tuning the engine you've got with intake & exhaust tweaks than by thowing cams in it & it'll last a heck of a lot longer too. Harleys love the mid-range (3000-5000 rpm) & it just makes sense to me to use it on the street/road/highway. You don't want to know what it costs to pull 7200 rpm for 3 miles, believe me. And you can't do it with a TC88.
  5. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Per normal for me I'll take a different approach

    Art's stage 1, pipes, filter and tune is a very good approach, least invasive on your wallet and will produce the most power per $ spent. No qualms.

    However the right cams are a good choice for an 88, I've put several together for a nice mild build that pulled really well. It depends on the bike, cam and riders needs.

    Gear drives are fine for your build, they eliminate the HD tensioners, however unless you really crank up the valve pressure and cam lift, you can probably stay with the HD tensioners if you run a mild street cam.

    The trick is to put the right cam into the bike for the way you ride so we can bump the power, and, when you are ready, bump it to 95 inch.

    Now to cams, that isn't a super heavy bike so you can get away with a bit more cam because the bottom end isn't as important (Lower RPM TQ gains) as it would be on a full up loaded Ultra.

    I'm more of a Woods Cam person, so I'd suggest the TW-6 non gear drive cams, pop on new tensioner pads, polish the outside links on the chain and enjoy the ride. Also these cams work well with a 95 inch motor that's very streetable and will have plenty of mid range and tq because that's the way Bobbys Cams work.

    If you must go gear drive, then that's fine it just doubles the costs of the cams, also you'll have to check pinion shaft runout and make sure you have the correct size pinon gear, too tight it's a whiner, too loose it's a clacker, SNS has over and undersize pinon gears.

    As to the driveway, yes you can do it, you'll need a bearing puller to get the inside case bearing out and press in new torrington bearings, don't use the stock HD INA crap, get the torringtons.

    Also you need to replace the bearings in the cam plate, so you'll need access to a press or have a good way to pop out the bearings and get the cams out of the bearings from the plate.

    BTW for install a freezer works great, warm up the cam plate in the sun or wifes oven, best done while she's out shopping, then freeze the bearings, they should drop right into the plate. Let them cool/heat and set, then install the cams in the bearings, assembly lube is your friend. So is a press, harbor freight has one that's not expensive and it works.

    You will need timesaver pushrods, HD makes them and they are thicker and you get covers, however they can rub on the tubes or heads and make a ticking sound. Cranes work great, thinner and don't rub, the crane builds I"ve done seem to be quieter.

    Anyway, you'll need some clips or magnets to hold up the lifters, tools to remove and install bearings gaskets etc. Oh and drain the oil tank on the softail first before you pull off the cam cover lest you desire to be cleaning up the driveway aka valdez!

    What I'm saying is you'll have to stick to a grind that won't require any valvetrain work so under 510 lift is the thing.

    The power change won't be huge, but down the road and you want to put in bigger cyl (95) and have the heads worked the woods cam will make a nice street machine.

    Personally I"d do it all at the same time, you're not talking a ton of work or money to go 95 inch, just a set of gastkets, bore out the cyl $150 and set of pistons.
  6. jayel79

    jayel79 New Member

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    so could you give me a tool list? and since i live in me. and winter down time is the time ill be doing the work i dont have to spend 3500 on a 95 inch kit? i can just bore out my jugs? but i would like to keep it 88 can i get say 80 to 100 horse with good tourqe out of 88? i dont really go fast for long, im more of a light to light guy. pull real hard for an eighth mile or so.
  7. jayel79

    jayel79 New Member

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    im not looking to get all drag race ready, it is my daily driver bike. howerver i do want power from stop to stop. huge cams and huge carbs are not what im looking for. im looking for good reliable power in an 88 inch shell. i am mechaniclly inclined enough to know that the biggest cam isnt gonna give me the best power. now the head work you speak of what would that consist of? port polish bigger valves?....
  8. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    No, not bigger valves & definitely not polished intake ports. Just find the bigger of the 2 intake ports, clean that one up & make the other one match. Then do the same with the exhaust ports. Then make the combustion chambers in the heads match - find the larger of the 2, clean it up & make the other one match.

    You've got an "undersquare" engine (stroke is longer than the bore is wide) which will not rev very high, but will make gobs of torque in the rpm range you actually use & that's what you want to go for IMO. Bigger valves & more cam just target a higher rpm range you will probably never use on the street/road & will seriously hurt lower rpm torque.
  9. jayel79

    jayel79 New Member

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    ok so how would i find the bigger of the two? and im assuming its not work that i can do myself so roughly how much am i looking at cash wise...it makes perfect sense to me to do head work before cam work. and will i be able to make 80 to 100 horse with good tourqe safely out of my 88?
  10. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    Yes, you can get that power from a TC88 without going crazy & while you can get micrometers to measure with & work on the heads with tools like a die-grinder in your garage, you'll spend more time & money trying to get it right than by just sending the heads out. Shops like ECS Engineering here in North Carolina, Zippers in Maryland, NRHS in Colorado, HeadQuarters in Michigan & Ontario, Canada & CycleRama in Florida do professional head work on Harleys all the time & they're very good @ it. You'd have to call the one closest to you to see what the prices are, including shipping back & forth, but it's really not all that expensive to have the heads cleaned up & it'd be a good idea to send the intake manifold too so it can be matched up to the intake ports.

    No doubt there are a lot of other good shops too, I just mention those 'cause I know about 'em - haven't dealt with CycleRama directly, but I have seen Wes Brown's head work, I have a set of heads done by Zippers, another set done by HeadQuarters, I've been to NRHS, know the owner & ECS is a local shop I know the owner of too. To me it's one of those deals where you don't call an electrician when you need a plumber ;) I can run a milling machine, lathe, etc., but don't own such equipment, so I go to the folks who do, since I don't work for a co. which has all that equp. anymore. Tell any of those shops what it is you want to accomplish & they'll do it right the 1st time.
  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Wes is across the state from me and he built his first CV51 Stroker Intake for me, took the 44mm intake and welded on a band to fit the CV51, worked good but needed to be ported. I ran it on the street in rough form for a while.

    Cyclerama is good, so are zippers however I'll give you the budget build steps, we've all been there

    BUY A SERVICE MANUAL FIRST!


    This way you know what goes where, hidden stuff, tq values, order or assembly etc.

    1) Yes you can bore your cyl and pop in some flat top pistons
    2) head work isnt necessary but is a major plus
    3) Cams - Woods tw-6 stay off the gear drive shelf and you can do this el cheaper Also there are a lot of other cams ANdrews tw--37B's are cheaper than woods and in the same range of power.
    4) if you do the whole enchilada get the parts numbers together then call Jenny at www.tricountyharleydavidson.com and order your parts, 20% off, no tax reasonable delivery Jenny has been selling parts online for years and is highly respected. You wont' have problems with her.
    5) Call Bill at Bishops Performance in Detroit- he does a nice mild street port on the heads for about $400, he will also bore the cyl for you, if you send him the pistons he'll setup the pistons in the bore and set the ring end gap, ship it all ups up and back and you'll have the pistons in the cyl ready for install.

    6) On Harley Tech Talk in the for sale/swap section there is a guy that rents out the cam change tools from Jims, it's a good deal, you pay shipping and a small rental fee, so far everyones been honest and returned them to him. You will need a cam bearing puller, bearing installer (both come in the kit) as well as the tools and press to remove the cam plate bearings from both the plate and the cam. If you go gear drive you have to press off the gears on the cams for chain and back on for gear.

    So a cam change tool kit from HTT, some sockets, allen sockets, wrenches, assembly lube, gasket kit for complete top and bottom end, if you have alot of miles, swap out the lifters for HD B series (that's the number on the end of the pn) won't hurt, adjustable pushrods (Crane timesavers)

    Get a list started, get the pn's order them all in, and then pull it apart ship to shop for work, it's a good winter project

    Right now, I'd just ride the sucker till it snows and build the parts up a little at the time to help the budget.
  12. jayel79

    jayel79 New Member

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    and that makes perfect sense... thank for the help! do happen to know of any in the maine, new hampshire region? or can i call these places and have them sent?
  13. jayel79

    jayel79 New Member

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    hey man thanks alot for the help...im 29 years old and done alot of @#$%in off with my cash, now im smarter an need to play catch up in the learning region with motor tech....first harley wont be the last but even the guys that get $70 dollars an hour for this stuff had to start somewere right? ill keep yah updated...
  14. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    One other thing I think goes hand in hand the the Service manual is the Parts Catalog. It has all part numbers and diagrams with the order of assembly.
  15. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    No, I don't personally know of shops in your region, but any of the ones I mentioned will handle the work if you send the parts to 'em. The'll send 'em back ready to install & will give you a lot of information over the phone before you even start.
  16. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Same here nothing in your area but I know Bill personally at Bishops.
  17. jayel79

    jayel79 New Member

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    i actually talked to a woman at bishops. i cant remember her name but she was telling me for around 15 to 1700 i could have my work done and get my cams for the big bore. very helpful place and i will be doing that this winter. she also talked me ouy of buying an s&s she said that the stock cv works fine. i can get it bored out to 42 or leave it stock. i can also run my stock cams and get decent power....who new my quest for 100 reliable non exploding horse is starting to come to an end......thanks again!!
  18. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    That would be Amy she is Bills wife and she knows her stuff, funny a lot of guys think the gals don't know much, she'll set you straight lol

    They are good, and not too expensive.

    Tell her HRK sent ya, lol

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