Carb

I've got a 1200 sporty with a stage 1 kit. It was coughing back really bad and I couldn't get it out with the mixture screw. I replaced the 45 pilot jet with a 48 and it helped a lot with the coughing but I'm still getting some and by some I don't mean 3 or 4 times a day, I mean 3 or 4 times on a 20 minute ride. I know it's too rich now, but I'd rather have the popping through the exhaust than the farting through the carb. Anyone have any ideas that will help me? Thanks, Mike

You didn't say what year model the Sportster is, but no matter which one, go back to the stock 42 slow jet & your baseline for the idle mixture screw is 2.5 turns out. Main jet will depend on year model, but a 175 is the baseline for 1200's thru 2003.

Also, prior to '04, the "carb farts" problem was almost ALWAYS the needle & the most common "cure" was a bigger slow jet - but all that does is put a "Band-Aid" on a problem the proper needle will solve.

I'm sorry, it's an '06. The main jet seems to be perfect. It runs great from about half to WOT. Just has the farts. It runs a lot better with the 48 than it did with the 45 but still "farts" more than just the occasional Sportster pop. The jet was a piece of cake and won't be a problem to go back to a smaller one, but what about the needle? Is that something I can do or will I have to take it to a wrench? Thanks for replying. Mike

If you changed the jet then you won't have any trouble changing the needle either. You just have to pull the top off to get to it in the slider. When you take the top off keep some pressure on it and don't let the spring toss it on ya. You might get lucky and the slider stay in and allow you to dump the needle and drop in the new one. If not no big deal just be sure the diaphram is in its groove and be sure that it don't pinch under the lid when you put it back. The CV is easy enough to work on the trick is knowing what part needs changed in them LOL. Art is a hero on that side of it. I believe your factory idle jet was a 42 for the 1200. raa883 has a carb question post which I posted the chart from the manual in. Check that out, it was taken from the factory service manual for the 06 sporty. Good luck.

The needle on the '04-'06 models is different from the '91-'03 models & from what I've seen, does not need to be changed (most assuredly did on my older bikes). A few people have shimmed the '04-'06 stock needle up .020" - .030" with a brass washer, but that's only done for fine-tuning on a modified bike, after everything else is right.

You should go back to the stock 42 slow & then check for intake manifold leaks - where the carb meets the manifold & where the manifold meets the heads. A simple way to do it is while the engine's running, spray a little bit of carb-cleaner or WD-40 around each joint - if the idle changes suddenly, you just found a leak.

Also, your baseline on the idle mixture screw is 2.5 turns out & you shouldn't have to go more than 1/4 turn either way to hit the "sweet spot" & if adjusting the mixture screw (engine warmed up & running) doesn't make a noticeable difference, that almost always says the slow jet is too big. And I guarantee you that a 48 is - you're just drowning another problem.

Thanks a lot for the replies. I'll try the carb cleaner and see if I can find any leaks. Mike

Okay guys. I found the leak. It seems to be on the front cylinder at the intake. Now the next question. Am I getting in too deep or is this something that I should be able to do also? Thanks, Mike

Intake gaskets aren't the easiest thing on that bike to work on but they are doable with a bit of time and patience. I have an 05 883XLC and have changed mine. It is just kinda cramped for room to work, otherwise it isn't hard at all. I would suggest going ahead and getting the carb gasket ring as well. It isn't much on money side and you will already be in there anyway. If I ain't mistaken I found a kit on J&P that had both intakes and the carb doughnut thing.

Thanks for replying. I guess I'll give it a try and see what happens.

I certainly agree with HRK about the factory service manual - if you don't already have one for the bike, go get one - definitely worth its weight in gold & a lot better than the far less specific Clymer, Haynes, etc. manuals.

And here's a trick for the intake manifold bolts on Sportsters - a standard Allen wrench bent @ a 90-degree angle won't fit without grinding the short side down a bit, but the somewhat Z-shaped Allen wrench that comes with a "Disposall" for a kitchen sink fits perfectly - the angle's less than 90 degrees & will fit in the tight space. One more trick is that you can take the Allen-head bolts to a fastener supply house & get the same bolts with a 12-point head that a standard box-end wrench will fit.

Dang it Art, why couldn't you have posted the disposal wrench idea sooner. I have a "special" allen wrench now for mine thanks to a minute or so on the grinder LOL.

Thanks guys. I appreciate all of the info. Mike

Just wanted to let you guys know that I got the intake and carb seals changed and it's like riding a new bike. In fact, it was so much fun I was dogging it a little too much this past weekend and now I have to replace the drive belt. Oh well, at least now it's running good.....even if it won't go anywhere....lol Thanks a lot to all of you for the information.

Broke a drive belt and you say "dogging it a little" :roflmao:

You Welcome, just what we do here. Help and get help.

Yeah, snapped that sucker right off...:witsend:...Oh well, it was fun while it lasted. Gonna try to put a new one on this weekend... Thanks again. Mike

Replacing the belt wasn't that bad...except for the $172 cost of the belt.:witsend: Now I have another question. When I started the replacement, I realized that the bike doesn't have a lower belt guard(debris deflector). I really don't want to pay $80 for a chrome one and I wondered if anyone here has replaced their plastic stock lower guard with a chrome one and if so would you want to sell the old one? Thanks, Mike