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Clutch not fully disengaging

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by more power, May 30, 2010.

  1. more power

    more power New Member

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    I have a baker 6 speed in a 86 fxrs that has been converted to a 91-94 drive train a few years ago I bought the complete transmission and case from Baker. With 124" of S&S fun for power. My problem started when it wasn't and still Isn't going into 1st gear smoothly every time after the bike warms completely up after 30 or so miles. It's a crap shoot, sometimes it will and sometimes it won't. I replaced my Rivera Primo pro clutch about 2500 miles ago. All was well till now. I replaced my throwout bearing that was just hanging on my push rod end. After adjusting my clutch to manufactures specs (1/4 turn out the first time then anywhere from 1/8th to 1/2 turns after that didn't work, it's at 1/4 turn now). I even tried shimming the clutch plates with the small shims that primo provides, on a fairly new clutch (science then I have removed them) Then I calibrated the friction plates they are all at about .090 well within manufactures suggested usage. I even looked at the (directions) parts manual and noticed that on 91 through 97 the push rods have an oil sliger on the end of it unlike a 86 and it don't look like mine oops Baker trans not Harley. I don't want to start throwing money into the wind here, somethin simple I'm missin here. Does Baker have there own throw out bearing? Put the shims back in? :banghead: Thanks
  2. more power

    more power New Member

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    It's almost like my cable isn't adjusted correctly. It's a steel brayed line and have adjusted it with any where from 1/8th to no slack. I am however on the last couple of treads on my cable, maybe I just anserd my own question. I herd someplace that on a steel brayed line you need almost no slack in your line. I don't know why, maybe somebody could explain that one to. Sounds a little hard on the throw out berring.
  3. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    the inner cable may be stretching also...... on harleys clutch the free play at the lever is about the thickness of a penny.........
  4. more power

    more power New Member

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    Thanks Chuck that makes cents. (Just joking)
  5. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Going through this on a 113 elbruto with an aftermarket 6 speed

    Couple of things, the older bikes (shovels and early evos didn't have an oil slinger,
    the Elbruto 6 speed doesn't either.

    If you have the cable adjuster 100% out then somethings wrong.

    Collapse the cable adjuster about 50%
    Remove the cover and loosen the jam nut
    turn back out.
    Now move the clutch lever in and out a few times to set
    the balls and clutch lever in the trans cover, leave the
    lever out

    Now turn in the adjuster until it touches the rod (friction)

    Check the endplay at the lever as Chuck said, I prefer about a dime to nickels width
    when you pull the cable away from the clutch lever housing this is what you should see
    if it's a lot more, turn the allen adjuster in until you get about a nickles worth of width at the lever.

    back off 1/4 turn, jam the nut down

    Check the cable end, if you have too much, then take it out on the cable adjuster

    You shouldn't be at the cables end.

    Also be sure the cable at the adjuster is properly seated, I"ve seen where the cable (which is two parts) is not properly seated.
  6. more power

    more power New Member

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    Thanks Hotroadking.. Now I remember,, seen and did that before,,, just forgot to turn the cable 1/2 way in and turned the (allen) adjuster in and out trying to set the balls. When the way I was doing it failed tried somethin different.:puke: I'm just a little brain dead. Thanks again bro. I'll put this in my notes.
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    This may or may not help, if something else is wrong but that is the way
    hope it works.
  8. more power

    more power New Member

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    Works great Hotroadking.. I had a feeling it was somethin simple. Thanks again.
  9. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    And another problem solved through the knowledge here on bike talkā€¦. :D:D
  10. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Glad it worked...
  11. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    You say back out the Allen adjuster 1/4 of a turn. Hmmm, the manual says 1/2 to 3/4 turn which I have found to be to much.
  12. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I just like mine with the 1/4 turn and fine tune at the cable,

    The trick is getting the ball and ramps set and then
    then setting the cable pull out distance to about a nickle width.
  13. fxdxriderleo

    fxdxriderleo Active Member

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    I usually back off the cable adjuster all the way. This way I know their will be plenty of freeplay to adjust at the clutch pack.
  14. more power

    more power New Member

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    I even went as far as calling Rivera. The Tech told me to go with 1/4 turn. If I back off the cable all the way it didn't mater whether I had 1/4 or 1/2 turn, I ended up at the end of my cable. For a reason unknown to me backing off the cable adjuster 1/2 way seems to give me a better adjustment. Is it that this way sets the balls better? Still works fine all I need to do is fine tune it a little more. Like chuck said my cable might be stretching. I have another bike that also has a Pro clutch in it and is seems to work fine if I back the cable adjuster all the way, go with 1/4 turn and adjust the cable. I'm just a parts replacer tripping over myself. I get a lot of enjoyment out of breaking my bike so I can fix it. I wonder if I do it on purpose sometimes.
  15. more power

    more power New Member

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    Oh yea.. Thanks again.
  16. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    no problem!!!:D:D

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