Compensating sprocket cover

I noticed that the compensating sprocket cover I have has the bolt welded to it. Is this normal? In order for me to install the Balance Masters gizmo, it has to go just under the bolt head and over the cover. I will need to grind off the welds to separate the two. Would it be all right to do that? Here are 2 pics showing both sides of the cover. Thanks!

If this is off your shovel, the bolt is not welded prolly just stuck on. The weld marks you see are holding the 2 piece comp spring cover together. The bolt should come out. Try heating the cover with a torch and whacking the bolt with a hammer, it should come out.

If that doesn't work..get a bigger hammer, Ha!
These items are sometimes very dfficult to seperate. Last time I worked on mine, I had to use 2 different pullers and a torch to get the shaft entition off the engine shaft. I was converting from chain to belt belt primary. It was a real pain in the keister to get all the parts off.
Here's some pics.

I used a 3 lb. baby sledge and a little penetrating oil, set it between the open jaws of my vice and bang, bang, bang, off it came! Is there supposed to be some kind of spring that goes with it? I didn't get one when all this stuff came in the mail.
BTW, I'm sucking down a Dos Equis in celebration of this small victory. Right now, I'll take anything I can get!
I'm adding two more pics showing everything I got that goes on the motor crank. I hope nothing's missing. (Yeah, there's a stator under the rotor).

The spring is inside the cover.

What mod are you doing to your bike?
What model and year is it?
I have a 1970 FWWG and a 1983 FXE.

Those are very nice, Tommyc! I thought I saw on another thread that you are selling the red one.
Well, I'm building my shovel from scratch. Started 18 months ago with a used roller (Paughco wishbone frame, wide glide front end, etc.), then added a bit here and there. The motor is a '77 FLH. It's almost done as you can see from the pics.

Very nice looking bike. What brand of motor is that? Looks like you have a good ways to go.
Yes the red is for sale.

I don't see no spring. Just some giant sized washer looking things. Oh, wait, I get it! Just got back from my shop and sure enough, I could depress the ring a bit. Not much, though. The clue was the three crimps along the edge of the cup - had to be holding something in. Thanks.

It doesnt look like a normal wire coiled spring. The whole cover itself and the little round piece with the hole it it act in compression like a spring would. The outside and the inside of the comp assembly are seperated by the 2 cam looking pieces.The big bolt holds them together with the cover/spring in between. When the engines spins the shaft and the primary chain spin also because they are coonected but the chain sprocket is connected to the outside cover/spring assembly. the outside section will "spring" out and slide up on the cam assembly when the torque is being transfered from engine to primary chain. Do you understand how it works now?

Got it. It sounds like the compensating sprocket helps keep the bike from lurching at lower speeds? I would think it would help make shifting easier, too? Also. I now understand why the torque on the nut is so high (170 ft. lbs.). Must be a lot of force trying to get it loose!

It's a '77 FLH. My tranny is being rebuilt and the oil tank, exhaust & miscellaneous pieces will be here soon. Hoping to ride by June.

The comp assembly is supposed to reduce the jerky vibration that the motor makes every time a cylinder fires. It works like a vibration damper. Similar to a car engines harmonic balancer. If you look at an older assembly they actually had a true coil spring and not a compressable cover/spring assembly like ours have. My setup is just like yours.

Red Loctite? really?
I think blue loctite? No?
You will also need a about 160 ft/lbs of torque and a primary chain locking tool to snug up that comp. bolt.

Hotroadking, are you speaking from experience about using red loctite on the comp shaft nut? That sounds scary to me.
I would use the blue only.
Because of the red loctite, wont heat from a torch be required to remove the nut when that time comes?
I have heard other mechanics say red loctite also.