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CV carb kit / tunning

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by TDC, Jan 4, 2011.

  1. TDC

    TDC New Member

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    Bought a 2006 XL 1200C with stock AC, screaming' eagle tips, stock carb 42 pilot / 185 main with California emissions.

    Installed Vance & Hines 2 into 1 blackout pipes, Arlen Ness Big Sucker and CV stage 1 jet kit and Dakota Kid pedestal. misplaced emissions equipment.

    Have tried both 45 and 46 pilot jets, have settled with the 45, Mixture is at 2 3/4 out. Backing off of WOT with a 185 main would actually accelerate a bit so I upped the main jet to 190, now WOT in 5th gear just goes and goes into scary-land.

    The only problem I'm having now is, at any speed/gear (can't tell you the RPM no tac on a custom :gah: ) right at transition from coast to just barely throttle I get an occasional backfire and also a bit of popping on deceleration. I'm not sure if the two are related or not.

    I did drill the vacuum port to 3/32nds and I'm really hoping that is not causing this symptom. Would shimming the needle help this problem? Or am I still needing to fine tune mixture?

    I did check for input leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the sides and back of the carb with no noticeable changes in idle.

    Anyway hello all...

    Tim
  2. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    Tim welcome ,did you also try looking for exhaust leaks you could be sucking cold air in the header pipe & this will cause the popping your getting , did you install new gaskets in the heads when you installed the new pipes ?
  3. TDC

    TDC New Member

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    Yes I did, however I opted for copper gaskets instead of the wire mesh. I'm not sure which is best and I'm also bit suspicious of the seal on the front pipe. I wound up stripping the nut real bad to the point of having to use a nut extractor. I think I'm going to buy new gaskets and nuts and reinstall the pipes. Was trying to get to 80lbs of torque, too much maybe?
  4. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i would back the mixture screw out just a smidgen.......i think your close but not quite there with it.
  5. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    WAY to much. lucky ya didnt break the stud off. it is only 5/16.....i think the book calls for 35 or so......dont have it in here with me.....check the torque setting in the factory service manual..........
  6. TDC

    TDC New Member

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    Yieks!..35???. I thought I read somewhere that 60 to 80 was good... crap! Next purchase is a Service Manual! I guess I am lucky things aren't worse, now I'm worried about getting the damn nuts off without breaking something.
  7. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    I'm not a big fan of the copper gaskets, I prefer the Screamin' Eagle mesh type. Decel pop is common with exhaust leaks, and like Chuck mentioned giving the mixture screw a slight twist combined with the new gaskets could alleviate the backfire.
  8. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    yes on the mesh gaskets & service manual the best tool you can buy for your bike :D
  9. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    I would second what Ken says here about the SE gaskets. I had similar issues with mine and I changed out the gaskets and my problem went away. I have a 96 Sporty, not to scare you but I did find that I also had a head gasket leak that I think was contributing to my popping issue as well.

    BTW, I do not torque my exhaust down at all. I get it nice and tight by hand and just periodically check them to make sure that they are still tight and retighten as necessary.
  10. TDC

    TDC New Member

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    Thanks for all the input guys, Gaskets (correct torque) a wee bit of fine tuning and a manual. I'll keep ya' posted.

    Funny I was trying to explain to my youngest daughter (16) how in the not too long ago past we didn't have this huge resource of the internet to be able to interface with people that had more knowledge and experience . She asked, well what did you so? The only thing I could come up with was a trip to the library.


    Any way, thanks again.......
  11. TDC

    TDC New Member

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    Ok so an up-date... 1/6/2011 I changed the pipe gaskets to wire-mesh and torqued correctly, that alone got rid of most of the decil popping.

    Still getting carb farts at steady low/mid rpm (just past no throttle) so I kept backing out mixture 1/8th turn at a time. Eventually changed the pilot jet from the 45 to a 46 and shimmed the jet needle about .030. Ran it and got what I thought was satisfactory result with the mixture out to 3 turns.

    1/9/2011 This afternoon I started it up ran it to warm. Am still getting carb farts and same problem at just above idle. (not nearly as bad as before) Now have the mixture adjusted out 3 3/4 turns and seems to be running good. This seems out too far to me but I can't imagine going up a jet size.

    I've checked for leaks as posted earlier and all seems ok. I've checked float level and I think I'm measuring it correctly and seems good but it doesn't look exactly like the picture in the CV Carb Reference. In the picture the float appears to be exactly parallel to the carb body when tilted 15 to 20 deg, mine appears to be slightly out closer to what it would look like at 0 deg. Since I have no experience with this I don't know if this is normal or if its all that critical or if the symptoms I'm seeing are at all related.

    I also can't seem to figure out how one would adjust the float, they describe it in the reference but aren't clear enough for me.

    Sorry for the long post....
  12. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    The float level could be a bit low. To adjust you need to carefully bend the little steel tab that pushes the float needle. You'll find this tab near the hinge point of the float. With the carb upside down so you're looking down at the float, you need to bend that tab up so it allows the float to close later. In other words, bending the tab up allows the float to be even with the bowl edge when checking.

    [​IMG]

    The other thing that could be forcing your mixture setting high is a partially blocked internal passage. The only way to get at cleaning this is to take the carb completely apart and clean the idle passages with some soapy water or carb cleaner. Warning regarding carb cleaner, only use in the passages and keep away from the slide and accelerator pump diaphragms (remove those first).

    I believe you've already said you eliminated the likelihood of an intake leak at the manifold but that will also cause the need for larger jetting and mixture setting to compensate.
  13. TDC

    TDC New Member

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    Thanks for the input Ken, I have the same picture (without the chart below it). I did figure out how to do that last night but it was late so haven't been able to test. I also pulled out the jet needle shims, I want to get a base starting point. I'm going to have to take it apart again today to clean I used carb cleaner on the inside and I'm sure I got some on the slide and diaphragm. I feel like I'm learning this one mistake at a time.
  14. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    welcome to the club!!!!!!! trial and error!!!:)
  15. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    When I was doing some work on the Springer here recently I had also pulled the carb and installed the long idle screw from CV Performance. When I went to start the bike and set the idle I put a narrow shaft flat blade in to adjust it and had to stop. The angle allows the screw driver round shaft to hit the bottom of the tank causing it to rub and will remove paint. I then went and got my hose puller pliers that open up and will fit a round object(top of the idle screw). That worked but was a bit slower and trying to use the fingers didn't work either.

    Attached Files:

  16. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    cut the screwdriver shaft into. add a piece to the center,,,,,,,,,or get a looooooonnnngggg shafted screwdriver...........harbor freight!!:)
  17. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    Got a long shaft screw driver but it hits the tank due to the angle. That is why I used those pliers, they worked pretty well.
  18. TDC

    TDC New Member

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    Thanks Chuck... I guess you know you've turned the corner when you have more trial then error. :witsend:
  19. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i follow ya now.......a thought.......remember the old days when you adjusted the dwell on gm distributors????? the flex screwdriver would work good for you....it would work in a circle almost......autoparts or pawn shop.:)
  20. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    Sounds like a good idea, thanks I forgot about those flex drivers:)

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