CV carb problems after engine upgrades.

Hi all I'm new to the site hopefully you can give me some help here. Here is what im working with 2003 XLX 883 Wiseco jugs and 1200 pistons 9.5 to1 compression, Andrews N2 cams .465, Crane cam coil, Screaming eagle 10 mm plug wires and plugs, drag pipes with turbo cones, turboulator in the intake, S&s high flow intake, 45 and 185 jets. Ok now if I run around town no problems runs good runs great on the highway. Now when I come off of the highway back onto the streets bike runs like crap loss of power. It will run like that for a few miles and then back to running good. I checked the plugs looked good it acts like its loading up gas on the highway and flooding when going back to the streets. Does anyone out there have a direction to point me? Oh also I backed the jets down from 48 and 190. Thanks for your time.

Hello Springerray and Welcome To Bike Talk. When you went to the 48 pilot and 190 main, you did not decrease the jet size, you made them larger. The 45 and 185 should be pretty close to right as I was running a 46 and 185 in my Sportster. that 190 main is probably allowing to much fuel in and is allowing to kind of surge once coming off of the main. Personally I would take out the turbulator as IMHO they are a piece of crap. I ran a similar product and it leaned my mix way out. The torque cones, well, I am not a fan of those either. LOL JMO

Righ now I have 45 and 185 and it had no effect

Try running without the turbolator. Too many gizmos. Simplfy, simplify!

Well if it runs good on the street and after a highway run it gives you trouble sounds like temperature is the issue. Check that the vent is working in the cap . And that your vacuum pepcock. Is in proper working order . Next thing I would check is the pickup coil they start breaking down after they heat up and bike runs crapy . When you think its fuel look at spark ! When you think its spark look at fuel old mechanics saying! Good luck and let us know what you find.

Is it possible the float is adjusted too low? Does it only run like crap for a minute or 10-15mins? Electrical components would likely take longer than a minute or two to dissipate excess heat causing malfunctions. I remember distributors with intergrated cam sensors often needed a shutdown for 15-20 mins after a highway run before they would cool enough to be driveable.

If it was the float it would do it all the time .you actually use less fuel out of the bowl on the highway . It only takes 17 hp to maintain 70 mph . The motor is much more efficient on the highway then the street

OK, makes sense, "objects in motion tend to stay in motion" and all that stuff. So my buddy's Honda Sabre that seems to have about 18hp should be able to keep up with me on the highway? 'Cause he can't! LOL! Guess I was picturing long hard pulls on the highway, versus light to light in town, but then I think about energy needed to get the mass moving from a stop and it gets clearer.

Well thank you all I will look into these things and let you all know how it turns out.