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CV Carb Q

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Donivan, Jun 12, 2012.

  1. Donivan

    Donivan New Member

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    I have a 2003 Sportster 1200. CV40 Carb. Stage 1 kit. The slow speed jet has been replaced with a 48 (BY THE DEALER). The main jet is still a 160. Should I replace the Main jst with a 170 to get a bit more performance? Any suggestions to get the occasional carb hiccup out of it.
  2. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    WOW!! A 48 pilot is pretty big, even for a stage one kit. Do you really think that you need that big of a pilot? When does your bike hiccup? High speed low speed, when it is hot or cold?
  3. Donivan

    Donivan New Member

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    Mostly when its cold. But occasionally when it is warm and usually lower speeds. I am not sure why they put a 48 in it. They left the stock 160 main jet in it. I am trying to see what jets I should put in it. It will hiccup if I am on a steady throttle for a while when it is warm. I was thinking about getting the Yost power tube for it but I want to get the jetting right also. I am beginning to wonder why the Dealer only changed the pilot jet and out such a big one in and didnt change the main jet when they did the stage 1 on my carb.
  4. Donivan

    Donivan New Member

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    Was also debating on getting the EZ-Just mix screw and the easy idle adjuster since I change altitudes frequently when traveling.
  5. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Check and see if they drilled the plug out so they could adjust the mixture screw. I would start there other than buying that Yost thing you are talking about.
  6. buckwild

    buckwild New Member

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    heres what i've been thinking about trying to fix my hiccups, mostly low speed cold and hot. but occasional cruise speeds too. IDK if it will fix it or if i should try it. Hopefully one of the guys here understands it better and will jump in
    A No-Budget Fix for CV Carbs
  7. MountainCruiser

    MountainCruiser Well-Known Member

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    I agree with JB, first see if tower / port for air / fuel mixture screw has ever been drilled out. If it has not, then is at factory setting and that is lean... will cause cough, gets worse in cold weather. I have a 2001 softail, when I bought it, had never been drilled out. First winter started getting a cough at carb. Backed out screw 1/8 turn at a time. Did actually change to easy tune, but not all that necessary. If you do, make sure you turn original screw in and gently seat, so you can tell where to start the e z tune.

    Lot of guys on here, much more knowledgeable than me, see what they say as well. Personally I would not drill the slide. Quite likely you will stop the hiccups with air / fuel screw. Also home page for Harley Performance has great info and How to info ( Harley Davidson Performance )
  8. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    My guess is they tried to fix an air seal or vac leak with more fuel
    typically unless you have really hopped up the engine, a simple adjustment
    of the idle air screw will fix the problem, if you had to go that far then I'm
    betting on an intake leak.

    Slowly turn in the idle air screw and gently seat it, not firm, not hard but really
    light or you'll fubar the carb.

    Then turn it out 2.5 turns from bottom, start, idle, get warm
    set RPM using the throttle stop at 1500

    Now turn in counting turns until the idle changes, stumbles,
    then turn out it will smooth out then keep turning, and counting
    until it does the same start to stumble, turn back
    half the turns and you should be right on.

    I bet turning in that screw makes no difference in idle
    because the pilot is too large.

    Check for intake leaks.
  9. Donivan

    Donivan New Member

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    Ok here is some more to the puzzle. The mix screw plug has been removed... was by the dealer. I had a local Harley tech do some seals and head gaskets on the bike recently. It did it before I had the head gaskets and seals done. Still does it.

    So I have not done anything to the carb myself. I do not trust the local dealer and the local mechanic just wants me to get an S&S carb. I know there should be a way to tune this carb properly. Should I get a tuners kit and get rid of that 48 and go with say a 45? I have no problem replacing the jets or even setting the mixture. Just would like some advice on what jets to use.

    Thanks.
  10. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Local shop wants you to drop $500 in carb and labor to fix it, yeah no wonder, boat pmt due LOL

    NOthing wrong with the CV, lets say you have the leak issue resolved.

    Do the warm up Idle screw test, see how many turns out from bottom
    the bike likes the screw, if you have to go out 3 or 4 turns the jet
    is too small, if you bottom it (gently remember) or it's like 1 turn
    it's too large....
  11. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    check for air leaks, use carb cleaner and spray all around the carb and rubber boot. if it changes rpm you have a leak, I run a CV on my 95 incher and it runs great, I would not use the EZ adjust idle screw, The CV is a great carb and once set correctly you are set. I go from 6,00 ft to 10,000 ft with out any adjustment. I also go to sea level and no adjustments made.
    I run a 48 slow and 190 main. that is probably a little rich for an 883, I'd a 45 or 46 and a 170.
  12. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    Don't drill the slide!! It can cause more problems than it fixes....


    Unless you've got head work, cam and good pipe...that 48 is pretty big.....I'm with HRK seems like they're trying to drown an intake or vacuum leak...I'd start with a 45 pilot and follow how to set the mixture and find the right pilot the way HRK described....my guess would be either the 45 pilot or at the most the 46 is right
    Did the dealer just replace the pilot with a 48 or did he install a dyno jet kit...if you don't know ask him, dyno jet kits and stock CV jets aren't interchangeable
  13. DonChicago48

    DonChicago48 New Member

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    I also have an '03 XLH 1200 with Arlen Ness Air Filter and Straight Pipes (unknown manufacturer). I was having some low speed issues and poor throttle response. I installed Dyna Tech Ignition kit, new NGK plugs, and a CV Performance deluxe tuners kit with adjustable idle screw.

    The original CV carb had a 42 Idle Jet and a 180 Main Jet. I changed to a 45 Idle Jet and a new 180 Main Jet along with the CV Performance Needle, spring, and emulsion tube. I also drilled out the slide with the drill bit CVP provided.

    Today, I took the bike to Schroeder Performance, Grayslake, IL for Dyno Testing. Their report indicated generally good horsepower and torque numbers, but the Air/Fuel numbers were lean in the midrange (2,000 - 4,000 RPM), dropping to as low as 10.1 at 2500 RPM at both 25% and 100% Throttle. I intend to try some larger jets, although I am using what CV Performance recommended for a stage 1 engine now.

    I will report back as soon as I can find some larger jets.
  14. DonChicago48

    DonChicago48 New Member

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    Here are some mixture numbers for my '03 XLH 1200 from the dyno run today:
    RPM A/F Ratio
    1880 11.9
    2005 11.5
    2133 11.2
    2211 10.8
    2328 10.3
    2407 10.1
    2536 10.1
    2615 10.2
    2734 10.4
    2815 10.4
    2937 10.5
    3017 10.8
    3100 11.2
    3220 11.6
    3299 11.7
    3419 12.0
    3505 12.0
    3624 12.1
    3744 12.1
    3822 12.1
    3902 12.1
    4015 12.2
    4132 12.2
    4213 12.4
    4328 12.4
    4406 12.5
    4520 12.5
    4597 12.4
    4713 12.3
    4829 12.3
    4905 12.3
    5016 12.2
    5132 12.1
  15. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Way too rich, 14.6 is stoich, which is perfect burn
    and the target for good fuel mileage,

    mid 13's are good for power, you are drowning it with fuel...
  16. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    try a different needle, less taper means more fuel sooner, more taper means more throttle to get the same fuel,
    I'd go with a slimer needle, slimer and less taper has worked for me, JMO
  17. DonChicago48

    DonChicago48 New Member

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    I replaced the 180 Main Jet with a 175. It seems to run better, particularly in the midrange. I made a mistake in my previous post. I typed lean when I meant rich for the midrange numbers.
  18. DonChicago48

    DonChicago48 New Member

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    I'm using an aftermarket needle from CV Performance. It appears to be smaller in diameter than the original needle.
  19. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    try adjusting the mixture screw,
    Lean is mean, but fat is where it's at...
    different needles have different tapers, Which CVP needle did you install.
    I don't know what altitude you are at but you might try a 172 main.
  20. pepe77

    pepe77 Banned A-Hole

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    Ahoj mám taki menší problém nedaří semi viladit karburátor mám otevřené vífuky a fyltr K N a mám trysky 40 185 a nevím jestli jeto dobře mašinu mám teprve 2 měsíce takže oní nevím vůbec nic má softail custom evolution rok 1989.

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