CV carb questions

Hello all, new to the forum and looking for some advice. I have a 2004 XL883, bought it last fall from a dealer that knew little about it's history. Bike has a Screamin Eagle hi flow air filer and S/E slip on mufflers. Ever since I got it, it coughs through the carb sometimes when blipping the throttle, such as when downshifting for a stop, and I couldn't solve the problem completely with the idle mixture screw. I figured the carb was never rejetted, so I got the basic CV Performance kit, which came with a new needle, 44 slow jet and 175 main jet. The instruction video also mentioned checking the vacuum hole in the slide, and said it should be 7/64".
Well this morning I took the carb apart to install the kit, and discovered that the main jet wouldn't thread into the emulsion tube, and the hole in the slide is a sloppy 1/8". The old slow jet was a 45 which I replaced with the 44 in the kit, and I also put in the new needle from the kit and put it all back together. The old main jet was a 170 which is still in while I wait for the CVP emulsion tube. Bike runs better, but still coughs.
My question is, will I be ok with the drilled out vacuum hole in the slide after I put in the new jet and emulsion tube? Worried it went along with a different brand jet kit, and will be incompatible with the CVP parts. Thanks!

Did the CVP main jet practically fall into the hole in the emulsion tube? I'm betting someone installed a dynojet kit and drilled the slide.

About how many turns out did you end up with on the idle mixture screw?

As always: Check the float level (there's a diagram on how to do it correctly on this site), and check the manifold seals for leaks. If you just crack the choke open does it quit spitting?

I'd say replace the slide if it's been drilled.

Your carb had a Dyno jet kit installed.....the jets are not interchangeable with stock or CVP jets...You would be better off with a new undrilled slide,the cough could be from the slide raising too quickly giving you a lean condition ....Put the 45 slow jet back and wait until you get the CVP parts and new slide....

Doc, I couldn't get the threads to start on the new jet, when I looked at them closely the old one has a finer thread. The emulsion tube doesn't have holes on the side like the CVP tube does. I reset the idle mix to about 2 3/4 turns out, it was way out before, about 3 1/2 turns, before the jet change. Cracking the choke still does help somewhat. The bike does seem to have more snap with the changes made so far, this is my first time opening up a Harley carb and I was worried I'd mess things up! I'll definitely check the float.
And Lucifer, it would seem that the previous owner went through a lot of aggravation to install the Dynojet, just to make the bike run worse! I didn't expect any mods had been done, the stock hose clamps were still on the fuel line. I did check out their website before settling on CVP, wasn't comfortable with taking a drill to the slide. Seemed a little drastic, and no way to change it back once it's done. The carb still coughs when blipping the throttle, like when I'm getting ready to pull out from a stop sign, the slide opening too soon makes sense now.
Thank you both for the advice, I'll let you know how it turns out.

The stock clamps on the fuel line usually indicate that the owner had the dealership do the kit install, the fuel line is way too short to get any kind of working clearance for doing any kind of carb. work. My 883 also had the factory clamps, but the dealer's service minion completely screwed up the carb.

Before you can get the jetting right, you have to make sure your baseline is consistent. Different jets from different sources might have different size air bleed holes in them, which throws off how much they flow at different throttle openings. The emulsion tube you have will flow from the main jet at a lower throttle than one with bleed holes since it's not mixing air with the fuel. Same applies to a pilot jet...if the bleed holes are bigger in it, it will be a bit leaner at any throttle setting less than what flows max through the jet.

Since you're committed to the CVP kit (good choice!) get the rest of the things you need from them as well. The jets will be consistent in how they are drilled and you'll have a much easier time than playing mix and match. I'd just see about upgrading to the Deluxe kit just to get not only the emulsion tube you need, but the slide spring and the EZ-Just idle mixture screw. That alone is worth it's weight in skin off your knuckles.

One of the Dynojet kit parts is a weaker spring, and some people modify their stock one by cutting a coil or two off the end. I agree with sameoldoc, get the Deluxe kit, you will not regret it. It WILL run better.

Get a new slide from Harley like I had to do - about $50. After installing a stage one CVP kit in my carb it ran like a charm and still does. Experienced some coughing about a year or so later and discovered it was a vacuum leak at the intake.

I never considered that the spring was changed, and since I don't know which one I have I ordered a new slide and spring from the dealership as a starting point. Sure is a learning experience, but I'm enjoying digging into this bike to make it mine! I appreciate all the advice, will post an update soon.

Need to see it in the Showcase.

Hope you get it dialed in . . .

Installed a new slide and spring this morning, along with the CVP emulsion tube, needle and jets (44 slow, 175 main). Put about 25 miles on, with just a few coughs while warming up. WAY more torque, snappier throttle and better power all the way through, and it got better the more I rode it. Thanks all for the advice!

Carbbed Spotsters seem to take forever to warm up from what I've heard, usually 10-15 mins on a cool morning before mine is ready to go to work or out for playtime. It will usually fart and blat once in awhile until fully warmed if I try to leave before that. Fine in warmer summer weather. I found the difference in power and fuel economy suprising with the CVP kit over the Dynojet pieces. How CVP makes it better on gas and have more power at the same time I don't understand.

Idle mix is out 2 1/2 turns, I used that for a starting point. Do I need to have the motor completely warmed up, say after riding a few miles, before adjusting?

Yep,warmed up,but not hot...if idling more than 5 mins, shut her down,have a beer and start again

http://www.harley-performance.com/harley-davidson-carburetor.html