CV carbs rejetting for altitude changes?

I have a 2003 flhtc carbrurated. I relocated from Fairbanks Ak elevation 600’ above sea level to Albuquerque NM alt. 5000’ above sea level. Shipped it here and when it got hear i ask the local Harley shop to rejet the carb for the altitude change and was told that because it had a CV carb on it that no jet changes were nessacary because the CV carb adjusted to the altitude automatically ? That sound right to you? I have since installed CVPreformance kits and rejetted it and am very happy with how it runs but I’ve always been curious about the altitude compensating cv carb and if that information is correct?

What CV performance jets did you use?

I'm at 7000 ft in CO with a 97 sporty 1200. I just picked it up.

Put in the 180 and the 45 (for "stage 1" straight pipes and an intake).

1st and 2nd gear are great, but when I try to open in third + I'm at a total loss. It bogs (feels like I'm hitting a rev limiter in a car).

Going well, but need some help. Based on what I've read, maybe I need to bring the main jet down to 175?

Thoughts??

I pulled the carb (again) because my float is getting stuck. No evidence of anything so hopefully a new fuel line/filter will do the trick

My sweet spot for the mix is right at 2 turns out.

Think I should replace the 45 pilot with a 44 upon reassembly?

at 3/4 throttle and up, I have nothing. I can't call it rich. I can't call it lean. It just sucks. Feels like the whole bike chokes and I get nothing.

Fun notes: Prior to installing the CV performance tuners kit and jets the carb had a 185 main in it... I actually reduced it to a 180 (it doesn't mean much to me because the bike ran like crap).

I spent lots of time on the float. Made 15 degree platform and set properly. Pretty confident in it and bench test it.

Pilot: I think I only have one size leaner, I’ll try it.

Needle: assuming you mean the slide needle (terminology?), it’s not shimmed. I bought a cv performance tuners kit and a slide. Using both those in this application (with no modification).

Note: when I pulled the main jet I also replaced the immulsion tube (cvp kit). I didn’t not see a nozzle come out, but I’m assuming the nozzle is what I see protruding inside the carb?

@kenfuzed @hotroadking - appreciate all the help!

1) Sticking slide or bad slide diaphragm. (Brand new, moves smoothly)

2) Vacuum leak at the manifold (manifold to heads or between carb and manifold). This is the most common. (I'll inspect, and use a little grease when I reinstall carb)

3)Debris clogged in the inner passages. (will blast with carb cleaner (Again). also installing new inline fuel filter)

4) Sticking float needle valve. (Yes. I don't know why, but I have overflow issues. I've carefully adjusted float and replaced needle. Seat is clean, passages (seem) clear. bench tested, functioning)

5) Restriction from the tank, which could include a) clogged petcock, b) bad gas cap vent. (Petcock *seems* good and carb often overflows. Installing new fuel line, have brand new gas cap - kuryakyn 8669 stock style vented cap)

6) Needle jet (stainless steel nozzle) on top of emulsion tube is upside down or missing. (You can see the nozzle in the picture above (correct)? the CVP kit does not come with a new one, so I left it in)
7) Problem with ignition module cutting out. (This very well could be, but before I started messing the carb, there were no missfires or really unusual circumstances at wide open, the bike was just sluggish as can be.. An obscene amount of gear dropping on hills to try to salvage any power. Since it has pipes and frankensteined intake (stacked gaskets, cut filter and terrible seals all around), I figured a carb rebuild with jet-kit would be a great place to start. I've also installed a tc bros (open air filter). I'm wondering if this was a good idea now that i have exhuast/head breathers firing off into the air).

My intentions:

1) Clean passages in carb (again).
2) Leave 180/45 combo (stage 1)
3) Inspect/clean manifold
4) Lightly grease manifold boot upon reassembly (I haven't done this yet).
5) Install new fuel line + inline filter
6) Adjust mixture per @hotroadking 's suggestions
7) Pray that the *&^% float doesn't stick.
8) Circle back and let you guys know if I've found success or I'm back the drawing board.

Again, Thank you for sharing, your knowledge is invaluable. I hope my issue helps others in the community.

There is no vac line on the petcock. After I get it running right i’d Like to do high flow fuel stuff.

I can’t find what the one vac line on the carb does, and/or what it’s connected too? Some sorta solenoid?

Update. Noticed the float needle seat (walls) were muddied up. Used some q tips and a lil gentle pumice polish to clean/smooth it out, then flushed it was gas to do my best to keep abrasive from staying in the carb.

Float jet seems to be operational, but I’ll find out more tomorrow when I fire it up.

Well. Finally got to throw a leg over and test.

1) ez mix screw has 0 impact.
2) 3/4 throttle fail exists still (video attached).
3) running 175/45 main/pilot
4) idles well
5) cleaned 2x (though a read a good thread on cleaning the passages).
6) I think (this could be my brain) I smells rich. Can’t confirm.

Thoughts.

I’m going to install the factory mixture screw and experiment.

Greased intake boot (no manifold blockage).

Vacuum line from carb goes to some sort of solenoid?? (No factory petcock).

Video: the forum won’t allow me to attach a video or link.

Update:

1) I pulled air filter and noticed fuel around bottom lip (rich indication right?)

2) replaced ez mix with factory screw. (Pulled air filter to ensure I could see needled tip : and I could).

3) bike won’t stall with screw all the way in. Bike won’t stall with screw 5+ turns out.

Running too rich with a 175 main???

Confused.

Started researching VOES.

Since I bought it, the bike was never strong wide open.

Carb kit has not improved much (more steady idle).

Before I dig into the ignition to see what’s going on, does anyone think this complete lack of top-end power could be the result of bad(mid-adjusted) VOES?

Sounds like it would kill top-end power, but it doesn’t explain my rich situation.

I had some problems like stated you have, I changed the needle to a sporterster needle and lowered the jet back to a 42 was a 45 and went to a 175 and that worked for me and it is weird I am only at 3,000 feet and sea level when I get to the other side of the island, all about the adjustment prior though on the A/F adjuster Just my 2 cents, P:S: took days to dial it in

I’ve lost quite a bit of hope and winter months made it easy to turn my back on it.

The issue: complete power loss/over rich situation at 3/4+ throttle. Fuel spitting out the air filter in this 3/4 to wide open range.

I’ve purchased a timing light and timed the machine. (Runs better, problem still exists).

A full jet kit, needle and mixture screw from
CVP. Runs best with 42/175 but condition still exists.

Pulled VOES and bench tested. Functioning to factory standards.

Feels like a rev limiter is hit when advancing to 3/4+ and it spits fuel everywhere. I suspect, it has something to do with the timing advance or maybe a valve issue (how else would fuel come out the carb instead of go through).

Hours googling and reading the manual seem to provide me with very little insight and I hate to just throw money at the problem.

I really want to learn about this rather than visit a shop (note: the nearest shop is 2+ hours away)...

Any insight would be great...

Good reads on valve/cam timing?

or if maybe I should just buy a digital ignition (and what’s the most simple cost-effective ignition for use with a VEOS bike).

May be a valve or lifter sticking or week valve spring. Can you rev it up in neutral without the spitting?