Cyl Wall wear & Crank Runout

Wondering if crank run out could contribute to the wear showing on the cylinder walls...36,000 seems pretty low mileage to me to need a hone and re-ring...
I didn't have a dial indicator to measure the run out last year doing the hybrid kit,still don't have one....

but dont forget its a full floating piston. so crank would not be the factor here . that crank would have to be moveing more than an inch side to side .

look at the piston skirt for wear is it most on front or back of pistons ? and is it only on the front cylinder ?

My guess would be slop in wrist pin.

No Harbor Freight up here...but we do have a Princess Auto same type of business just 350 miles away from me:rant:
You're right, if it was the crank I'd be in a lot more trouble...just something that went through my head getting ready for work this morning

Jugs are coming off tomorrow...front and rear cyls have wear marks on the walls,we'll get a closer look then....

Pistons look good...I think I was trying to find problems that aren't there...just a set of stock jugs that went a 1/2 a hair outta round(that's why I bought seasoned re-bores)....no up and down play in the rods at all...



covered up for the night..

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Out with the Old...

looks like normal wear to me and they are riding correct in the bore wear marks like that ill take all day long . looks like a little dirt is getting past that air filter . from those scratches on the skirts . make sure there is no small holes in the filter media . saw some good size score marks in those pics! . ps . soap and water those new jugs kirby has some very nice stones for his finish hone . and nice stones will leave residue in the bores . dish soap and lots of elbow greese.!!!!!! . wipe the rings down also . if you got wiseco pistons and rings run your second gap . 10 thousands larger than the top . thats what helps those top rings seal . holds gas pressure at the top ring against the bore.

Excellent point on washing the cyls with soapy water after honing. Use a hair dryer after so they don't rust, then rub light oil on walls. If you are using forged pistons, fit is tighter because less heat expansion on forged pistons, so I'm not sure I'd have a bigger ring gap here. Were you thinking of cast pistons Paul?

Yep the jugs will be washed well,I have a big jug of elbow grease....and yes it is a nice finish hone....
I'm using SE flat top cast pistons...it the Joe Minton build I have going on here so I didn't feel the need for forged pistons...cast will work fine for this build
A new air filter is on the order list too...
Also got the new style crank breather assemblies and the drain back holes in the rocker support plates are going to be enlarged....

Nope I was talking about the wiseco forged I run 0.4 for every in of bore on the top ring and add o.10 two the second ring for the wiseco ring package only this does not apply to any other ring package . And this is per there instructions . Worked for me only two percent leak down as of my last check got 900 miles on it today since the build

HEY CANADIAN BOY!get that dam thing done yet ? wtf ya building 540 ci pro gas chevy big block or what? hows it going there mr lucifer!!!!

:roflmao:No,I came down with a bug,been pretty sick the last 2 weeks...and Keith hasn't done anything since I haven't been up thereI did manage to get the new map installed that Fuel Moto sent me...what a time I had with that:witsend:Couldn't get the program to install on my computor and being sick and getting frustrated:angry:,my lil sweetie came to the rescue,did a work around to get it installed on her laptop,then 10 seconds later it was done
Feeling a little better now,just hard to breathe,but I'm going up tonight anyway.....I really don't have time for nights off and it's a little frustrating that he didn't do anything because I couldn't get up there...but it is time to Get 'er done,because I have a lot more to do and the clock is ticking....

Well bro hope you get rid of that bug. Sorry I razed. Ya but maybe. It will help ya get rid of the bug.lol I'm sure it will run well.

No need to apologize BP, my skin is way thicker than that Big jug of Jack is usually the cold and flu remedy:drunk::roflmao:it's coming to an end,just when I start to cough I almost pass out
Once I finally got the PCIII set up and map installed I started checking through the values...don't really understand all the fuel table values, but when I looked at the timing table there were -3 in each block from 1250RPM to 3250RPM's and from the 20% Throttle position to the 80%TP mark...Would that mean they pulled 3 degrees timing out for those ranges?? I'm kinda thinking that because of the TW21 in the 95"er is going to have a high mechanical compression and they retarded 3* to help avoid the ping monster...am I in the the ball park??

:roflmao:It sure is cowboyDon't know if I could give him a raise in beer...the fridge will hold 72 cold ones comfortably and it gets filled pretty regularly...
He did need some money,so I also slapped a fair size stack of cash in his mitt and said the job was his and I don't have to be around to do it...Guess I do have to check the fridge inventory though

Harley ecm's already have a lot of timing from the factory. If you see -3 in the block, that is -3 from what was already in the ECM. You are correct! That is odd that many ranges though. Usually there are about 12 blocks in an area from 25% to 45% throttle at 2800 to 3200 rpm's that thy remove timing to stop pinging in roll on at cruising speeds. The rest of the areas you blow thru and don't normally have problems with too much timing issues.

i agree !!! what you can also do in the zero column of your map at 1000 rpm you can ad some timing at idle they tend to run better and cooler with a little timing in that area . low idle vacum and rich exhaust at idle does not promote a good burn and tend to run hotter . adding a little timing helps .