Electrical issue

Hello, haven't been here for a while ... bike was running good so I didn't need to ask a 'how to fix' question. Many people here with more knowledge than me. My problem on my '01 Dyna is that I'm not getting any power to it.The lights, turn signals, neutral switch light don't come on when I turn the key to 'Run'. Doesn't even come close to starting ... nothing. Turning the key back to ACC, I get the speedo light/odometer, and horn. Nothing else. I checked the battery and it read 12.3v ... charged it before taking it up to O'Reilly's for a check. It started fine this morning at home. No problems. Went to the bank to cash my unemployment check.... shut the bike off and started fine. Went to get a coffee and that's when it wouldn't start. Happened without warning. I'm thinking ignition switch ??? Any other ideas ?? 2001 FXDL with 19000 miles.
Thanks to all ... you've helped me in the past. Thanks again
T

Did ya check all the fuses, have heard that sometimes that30 amp main fuse goes.

the posts on the battery looked good as did the connections on the cables. I didn't check the fuses yet. My suggestion of the possibility of a bad ignition switch doesn't fly because my speedo/odometer stays on. I have separate speedo/tach on the gas tank. I would think that it too would go off like everything else when the key is turned to 'Run'. I'll check all the fuses and see what's up. Thanks for the suggestions.

if your wires have ever been spliced due to putting on differn't bars that could be a start had that happen to me before. or some times in the hand controls they get mashed and cause a bare spot that will short out a fuse

corrosion, loose ground, bad connection at solinoid. some thoughts

I wouldn't think it to be the 30amp main, since the speedo lights up. That is my way of not pulling the battery when I work on the Sporty (uh is that a bad idea has worked so far but that don't mean it is right).

I would think it is one of the other fuses, or a broken ground. I would start with a continuity check across all the fuses and then wiring harness under the tanks, or around the bars like Sportsterboy said if they have been changed. I woudn't think it to be the main ground since some stuff works and some don't, it is in between the working/non-working areas.

Good luck, let us know what turns out.

Thanks for all of your responses. I stopped at Motor City HD to pick up the 30 amp fuse behind the fuse box (on a superglide). It was only $10. When I get the battery hooked up again along with the fuse, and if everything is still the same, I'll go to the ignition switch. Like it was mentioned, if the main fuse went, why do I still have my speedo/odom come on? I think my turn signals operate in ACC., to where I can remove the key but keep them on flashing as blinkers, if I happen to be along side the road. I didn't splice into any wires. I do have a Kuryakyn brake controller module that makes my turn signals into blinking brake lights, but that snaps into the exsisting harness. So ....HRK and FLHT and the rest of you, thanks for the input. p.s. is the switch you talk about the ingition sw. ??

Sounds like the IGNITION contact on your ignition switch has given up the ghost. That's why things still work in the ACC position. Quite common problem

Thanks for all your responses. It's a bear sitting around on a beautiful three day weekend here in Michigan going thru this schematic. I changed the 30 amp. ... that's not it. battery and connections are good ... had that checked at the shop. Thought it might be my TSSM with all the wires conecting to it that connect to the items that aren't working, but the tech at HD shop says it will smell like burnt wire if it was bad. Checked my ignition sw. thru the fuse box ... that's o.k. The next thing is my starter module, which looks like it runs inline with my instruments, starter, and lights circuit. Is the proper way to check continuity on a harness to place the meter probe in the socket end of the harness and ground the other probe on my meter to a ground on the bike? I should get a reading when checking the ground wire on the harness connection too ??? I want to make sure I don't get any false readings. Thanks again all, and have a good Labor Day Weekend.

With a little diligence, I found out I have a bad ignition switch. The red/black wire is bad. That's the wire feeding the hot side of my fuse box for my ignition, lights and instruments. HD wants $108 for a new one. I know J & P, Jireh and others cost about a third of the price. Has any one had to replace a switch and where did you purchase it? It has to be a three wire switch. Thanks

I would go with the sw from HD others 1/3 the price in my experience = 1/3 the quality. Other thing to remember after replacement is to not hang heavy key ring from sw. This is common reason for sw failure. Thats what i have seen in my experience. Good luck....Steve