Engine light comes on-- 03 EFI bike

I have an '03 FLHPI fuelie and the other day while riding the engine light came on. The bike seemed to be running good at the time and the light went out ,came on ,went out again over a 10 minute period. After 20 miles we stopped checked a few sights and when starting it cranked slowly(like battery was low) but fired up. The rest of the day it was fine. I'm still waiting for my shop manual to come and the Police supplement manual,so I'm kinda helpless right now.
Earlier that day I bought a can of Seafoam, it said 1 can will treat 30-95 litres,so with about 18 litres in the tank I added 1/2 can.
When I first got it,when I turned ignition on and listened for the fuel pump,the eng light would come on and go out then I hit the button and it fired up and I'm gone.
Yesterday after I turned ign on the eng light came on and went out, but I waited and a few seconds and it came back on again for a few secs then went out again.
I fired it up and it seemed fine....until it sputtered after turning down a side street, steet is about 1/4mile long with no houses on it so I whacked the throttle and it took off like it should.
I blipped the throttle at that Stop sign and then at the next,but coming to the 3rd Stop sign it stalled. It fired up again when I hit ign. This whole trip was less than 2 miles. When I got home I turned it off,then fired it up again and it idles fine. Any ideas what's up ,I'm like a newborn with this machine.
Thanks(sorry for the long post)

well in the meantime while you are waiting for the manual you can check your code and kind of get a head start on fixin this thing, here is how you check codes

1. Remove right side saddlebag and side cover if so equipped. Remove protective plug from data link connector.

2. To activate the diagnostic feature, proceed as follows:
a. Create diagnostic test wire or use a female spade clip.
b. Install diagnostic test wire across Terminals 1 and 2 on the data link connector.
c. Turn Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION and wait approximately 10 seconds (4 seconds lamp ON, 6 seconds lamp OFF) for check engine lamp to start flashing.

3. All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes. To retrieve the first digit of the trouble code simply observe the number of times the lamp flashes.
a. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the first digit of the trouble code.

b. The length of time the lamp is illuminated and the length of time in which it is off are each about 0.5 second in duration.

4. The second digit follows:
a. Following the transmission of the first digit, there is a 1.2 second pause in which the lamp is off.
b. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the second digit of the trouble code. Count the number of times the lamp flashes to retrieve the second digit.

5. If more than one trouble code is sent:
a. Following transmission of the second digit of the first code, there is a 3 second pause in which the lamp is off.
b. Once all codes have been sent, the data string is repeated. When you have recorded the same trouble code twice, it is an indication that the transmission has been restarted and that all trouble codes have been retrieved.

IMPORTANT NOTE ..If diagnostic test wire is installed across Pins 1 and 2 on connector in lieu of a Scanalyzer, the ECM is placed in a diagnostic test mode and the engine will start. The test wire must be removed from the data connector and the ignition switch turned OFF or the check engine lamp will continue to flash codes. A historic trouble code resides in the memory of the ECM until the code is cleared by use of the Scanalyzer or a total of 50 trips has elapsed. A “trip” consists of a start and run cycle, the run cycle lasting at least 30 seconds. After the 50 trip retention period, the trouble code is automatically erased from memory (that is, assuming no subsequent faults of the same type are detected in that period). The numbers after the 'historic' or 'current' is the speedo code number, but without the electrical diognostics manual you're peeing into the wind.

1 Current 53 ECM flash error
2 Historic 53 ECM flash error
3 Current 54 ECM EEPROM error
4 Historic 54 ECM EEPROM error
5 Current 63 ECM serial data low
6 Current 63 ECM serial data open/high
7 Current 63 TSSM serial data low
8 Current 63 TSSM serial data open/high
9 Current 61 Loss of TSM/TSSM serial data
10 Current 14 Loss of all ECM serial data (state of health)
10 24 Loss of vehicle speed
10 33 Loss of vehicle inhibit motion
10 43 Loss of power train security status
11 Current 33 System relay contacts open
12 Current 33 System relay coil high/shorted
13 Current 33 System relay coil open/low
14 Current 33 System relay contacts closed
15 Current 99 Incorrect password
16 Current 99 Missing password
17 Current 41 CKP sensor intermittent
18 Current 41 CKP sensor synch error
19 Current 11 TP sensor open/low
20 Current 11 TP sensor high
21 Current 12 MAP sensor open/low
22 Current 12 MAP sensor high
23 Current 14 ET sensor voltage low
24 Current 14 ET sensor open/high
25 Current 15 IAT sensor voltage low
26 Current 15 IAT sensor open/high
27 Current 24 Front ignition coil open/low
28 Current 25 Rear ignition coil open/low
29 Current 24 Front ignition coil high/shorted
30 Current 25 Rear ignition coil high/shorted
31 Current 24 Front cylinder combustion intermittent
32 Current 25 Rear cylinder combustion intermittent
33 Current 23


Hope this helps some, Todd

Thanks Todd,it sure does help. I was wondering how to retrieve codes, so I can make up my own tester,good to know. Its an '03 "cop king" (my shortened name for it). At least now I can start to look for the problem,man what a helpless feeling without any info on what to do. ( Now I know what the parts guys feel like all the time at the local Dealer )Is the electrical diognostics manual another manual or is that part of the shop manual?
Thanks again Todd,:devil:

i think the diagn. manaul is a seperate manaul, it costs as much as the regular manual. i just wonder how useful it is. anyone have one out there?

i think i agree with chuck

The bike quit on me for a while yesterday, after refueling when I hit the start button...sounded like something shorted, no power at all, got aride back to get a battery,multimeter,and some tools. The only place there was juice was at the battery, which was fully charged. I turned the ign sw to acc then back on, it powered up,started it and when putting the seat on it lost power again. I took the side cover off and it was filthy,cobwebs dust,crap like that and a touch of green in some plugs. Under the dash panel same crap except for the corrosion. After monkeying around for a bit(scratching head mostly) I turned ign sw on and it powered up again.
I'm starting to think dirty contacts are the problem(bike appears to have been sitting for a couple of years)
Can I spray contact cleaner on the underside of the dash panel,(ign sw)and terminals under the side cover to try to clean dirt and grime out
Thanks for the input fellas
PS:How do you get the intank fuel filter out?

It may be an electrical connection but it could also be a restricted fuel filter. If the fuel pump assembly is any thing like my 01 softail you can buy the filter, hose and clamps in a kit you also need the gasket for the flange. For the R&R it is not that difficult, but it's something to recon with. You really need the service manual to do the job... Good luck "JAZZ"

might want to check those relays (starter&systems) they can do crap like this:devil:

should be able to get into the dash and take the connectors apart and give them a good cleaning. taking the fuel pump out isn't much fun. make sure you reveiw the manual first. things have to be disconnected befor the pump will come out:devil:

seems it would be nice to have a external inline fuel filter for EFI. would think they could come up with something in spite of the high pressure

I just picked up 2 pins to make the code retrieval tool, and a Clymer manual
(wish those yoyo's at dealer knew how to put a number on an order form) to help a bit.
I'll start with the easy stuff, spraying and di greasing all plugs and contacts ,then make sure the grounds are good, make the code tool to get what it says then I get back to you.
Thanks fellas I really appreciate all the suggestions and advice:devil:
60 mile round trip to work today, 1 hiccup(stumbled) with light coming on then out at 80MPH.

Thanks HRK, Gonna try to get up my buds garage tonite and make the code tool,lil honey made me take her out last night to a show, says I need culture or somethin like that .
Gotta get front wheel and brake lines on the Heritage, starter relay ,put the carb together and back on ,gas tanks on and work the gremlins outta the cop king.
I don't need no stinkin culture I need 30 hr days:roflmao: and some ICE COLD BEER :devil:

:roflmao: She got an 8pak of yogurt, I got 2 -15 paks of Canadian.

I stopped to pick up some 18AWG wire on my way home from work today, when I hit the start it lost power again, it sounded like an arc when it quit. I turned on the ign switch and was going to start checking for power,as soon as I touched the test lead on the pos battery terminal,the fuel pump started and it powered up.
Turns out the Yuasa battery thats in it has a spacer between the cable and the terminal and was working loose. I tightened it and all is good, I don't like that setup. I have to change that to make a more positive connection between the battery and the cables. I didn't try the data retrieval jumper yet to get the code but I'm willing to bet thats what will come up.
I still have to clean up the plugs and terminals but its good to find its a pretty easy fix.
Duke thanks for the list of codes and instructions, I printed them off at work today.I have the '03 Police supp manual and the RK shop manual on the way,hopefully I won't need them for a little while.
Thanks for the tips and advice fellas, I'll post the code that comes up when I get it.:devil: