Exaust Header Stud Broken - AGAIN!

Anyone know if there are better grade of header studs than stock that are safe to use in a Twin Cam? After finding my exhaust was loose at the rear port, I went to tighten it up, using a torque wrench set at 90lbs (manual calls for 120lbs, but I already broke a stud upon removal once so was gonna be gentle). The (*^%#@$#%$&^!!!!!!! thing broke at 50lbs!

This is the second time this year a header stud has broken on me. Anyone suggestions? And yeah, I am actually thinking of doing the "buy another one" replacement method. Craaap.

Time for some day drinkin'................................and a smoke

Check your manuel again...Should be 90 inch lbs, I believe

Yeah Charlie, that was my first thought. Inch Pounds or Foot pound? I made that mistake once on my outboard, dumbcuff!

Just checked my '05 Fatboy (Softail) Factory Shop Manual. 100-120 INCH pounds. I've had mine off and on several times without a break. And honestly, without a torque wrench. Goodentite!

Just talked with JohnnyBiker, and he confirms that EVEN THOUGH THE MANUAL SAYS 120lbs, I should have just gone until it was snug. F the manual...thank you H-D: got screwed, by the book.

Gotta sober up before tackling this. With more poor eyesight up close and weak hands from spinal injuries, this will be even less fun to pull the head and get the stud replaced. I still have to wrench my Jeep CJ-7, too, that has the dang tranny stuck in 2nd. When it rains, it poors....even in Nevada.

Wow to the manual saying 120 POUNDS! I wonder how man guys broke studs because of the typo in the manual.

Never looked in the HD manual,but from after market ex.pipe instructions 90-120in/lbs.

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From the manual:

1999 FL
1450cc 5-SPEED MODELS
SERVICE MANUAL
Copyright 1998
H-D MoCo
P.N. 99483-99A
EXHAUST SYSTEM

"page 2 -110 para. 13. a. Tighen the Exhaust System as follows....Tighten lower nut to 120 in-lbs. Final tighten top nut to 120 in-lbs."

Right from the manual...not "near 120 in-lbs" or "no tighter than 120 in-lbs", but
"to 120 in-lbs"
Not a typo, as it is repeated. What would a typo be of, anyway? 12 in-lbs? 20 in-lbs? Both too low. Nope, deliberate info.

Got me. Just checked my torque wrench and it was set on ft-lbs, not in-lbs. Should have used the Newtons scale - less confusing.

So I went to 5 times standard pressure and it was still leaking exhaust prior to breaking? Marvelous.

I'd really rather ride than wrench!!

Thanks for the info, but now I'll suck it up & take it to a shop. I got it taken down to the the point that it warns about removing the rocker arms and damaging things, and I am at the limit of my very limited skill set. If I had someone here to guide my attempt, I'd go for it, but I don't. As Det. Harry Callahan says: "a man's got to know his limitations". I just wish JohnnyBiker lived a few thousand miles closer! He's a righteous bro o' the road.

I have no idea how to "take the load off" and avoid creating a bunch of new problems. I will go with a new gasket/parts and get it done right, but with my limited eyesight (far sighted) and dealing with severe back pain (so taking prescribed, brain-muddling meds), I just don't think I should risk costing much more riding time and $$$$. ARRGGH! So close, and yet so far.

I love this bike. Ol' Red has take me coast to coast and shown me the USA, and some of Canada. My wife says "buy a new one", wonderful partner that she is, but I just can't make myself do it. Maybe I am too sentimental for my own good, but I just won't give up on her ( Ol' Red, the bike - or my wife, either!).

Now I got to get her on the trailer, always a sad thing to trailer a ride. Like taking your kid to the hospital. At least the only crying will be mine.

One last whine before I go. I hate to even say it, but the SuperTrapp 2-1 exhaust I put on has been the root of all my ills, at least in my mind. The first one wouldn't fit properly at all, and while their customer service readily gave me a replacement, (props to them for that), the replacement never sealed properly on the rear exhaust port, even after multiple gasket replacements. I might bite the bullet and get a new V & H Pro Pipe set, as I had before. The last one I had went bad (shook the baffle cone out) after 50K miles, but I think I may have had a hand in making that happen. I think I failed to LocTite the baffle screws before it was too late and they rattled the screw holes open too wide to use eventually. Live and learn....but I would rather learn from others' mistakes, rather than my own. I do have more local pals that ride, but none wrench even as little as I do...they don't even change their own oil. Heck, only 1 has ridden over 700 miles in a day. I've lost count on that.

I still have to fix the stuck tranny on my old Jeep, but at least I know how to do that.

Crap, crap, crap, crap, crap!!!....wish me luck!

So what is with this warning about "taking the load off", then?

Not going to a dealer for repair, taking to an indy shop. Thus I avoid temptation (though they are a couple blocks down from the Reno dealer).

I actually switched again, and am going with Bassani Road Rage 2-1 pipes. Willing to sell my SuperTrapps cheap, if anyone is interested.

It was Fanny, according to Robbie Robertson, but it isn't clear when you hear "off" before Fanny. Nickname of a bookstore owner, (Frances), that inspired him to include in the song (The Weight, by the band, Band, for those curious to know WTF)

OK, TDC takes the load off...why it couldn't say that I've no idea. Does it have to be precisely at TDC, or just close?

back the adjustment off completely and that will close the valves so you can do what it is that you need to do. There is a simpler way to adjust the pushrods. A way that doesn't make it seem so daunting when you hear phrases like "finding top dead center." Also, you will be happy with the Basanni Road Rage. I just bought Hot Rider a bike and that's the exhaust I will be putting on her bike.