Fork springs

Ok guys, I know I haven't been here in a while but I got a question....I bought a Progressive lowering kit for my 04 dyna wide glide. Now the instructions are unclear if the forks need to be completely removed, or if they can be done while still (relatively) attached to the bike. I checked my service manual and it says that they can basically stay on the bike, but I wanted to hear from somebody who's done this before. I know that I don't need the "special H-D tool" for 40 bucks, because a piece of 1-1/2" pvc pipe will work fine for re-seating the seals, but I've never done forks before and my road trip with the boys is in 1 week!! I need my bike! Thanks in advance guys for any/all input, I know that I can count on you.

Thx!

that would include removing the dampers chuck?? (Thx. for the response!!)

I'm with Cowboy on the lift. I haven't seen anyone hurt by them, but I know those springs are under some pressure while off the bike. With a wheel on the ground and suppension collapsed a bit that rascal would be real evil. I would think if you could raise the bike far enough to allow the slider to pass the bottom of the downtube you would be ok leaving them on the bike. Really isn't that big of a deal to pull them though since you can raise the bike and drop the tubes out of the triple tree. If you are removing the sliders I wouldn't even give thought to leaving them on the bike. Too easy to remove and reinstall to deal with working from the ground to get that bolt out. Wheel is going to have to come off anyway since you can't get to that bolt for the axle. Wasn't a big project when I rebuilt mine after the wreck, maybe an hour or so. I dumb lucked out and had a graduated cylinder left from college to measure out my fork oil. Getting that even was the harest part and that wasn't hard. If you have time take pics, would make a really good how to article for others.

Just currious, I don't recall why you would have to remove anything but the top nuts to chage the springs. Why would you have to mess with the fork seals unless they are bad?

Hey WV, I don't know....I was reading the instructions (I know, I know, what guy does that right?!) and the service manual, and that's what it said to do. I think in order to get the dampers out, the seal has to come out. BTW, our road trip this year is to Front Royal, Va. We are staying at a place there and doing day trips to various locations within 200 miles. How far from there are you?

Thanks for the help guys.

Installing the kit on the bike can be done your going to need something to push the damper out of the top of the tube. will be much easier to remove the tubes from the bike. That short spring is very important as it keeps the fork from topping out. follow directions and they work rather well. although you lose that extra travel. if the kit comes with PVC spacers recomemd that you trim to the max length or a little longer to adj preload to keep from bottoming on hard bumps. good luck...

Ok, well here's the skinny on the progressive front spring change....If you follow the SM for removal it's really a piece of cake. Basically, I jacked the bike up and removed the front wheel, caliper, and fender. I then removed the large 1-3/8" nuts at the top of the fork tubes, (remember this is a wide glide and I believe they are a little different than other models). Then I loosened the pinch bolts and slid the whole fork tube assembly out of the lower triple tree. Now, everything was fine until.......The tube cap (which holds down the spring) was on SO F***ING TIGHT, that it took 2 large men, myself, my torch, and a 13/16" open end wrench with a bar on it to loosen it. :angry: Ok, so after a few choice words and a minute to calm down, I turned the assembly upside down and drained the oil. (taking note as to how much oil was drained from each side) The next step is to remove the screw that holds the damper in place, which by the way needs to be done with an impact gun because the damper spins inside the tube, then the damper pops out the top. (I needed to turn the fork upside down and insert a piece of 3/4" pvc pipe into the fork tube to put pressure on the damper. I pushed down on the fork while unscrewing the bolt). After that I installed one additional progressive spring on the damper, (LEAVING THE ORIGINAL SPRING THERE) (lowering it one inch, two additional springs lowers it 2 inches), slid the damper back in, put in the long progressive spring, 1 washer, the pre-cut pvc piece, another washer then put the cap back on. THEN I re-installed the damper bolt, slid it back into the triple tree, and filled with exactly 12oz of standard fork oil. Finishing by re-installing the 1-3/8" nut that holds it into the upper triple tree. I did the opposing fork the same way and re-installed the caliper, tire and fender. Overall it was a fairly easy job and I believe that with a SM anybody can do it. You will need to make a tool or two. I took a 6mm allen wrench, cut off the bend, ground it square and inserted it into a 6mm socket and put that on the end of my impact gun for the damper bolts. You also need a 1-3/8" wrench or socket (available at your local Auto-zone or tractor supply co). BTW, I did re-install everything with a bit of Loc-tite, and torqued to proper specs. Everything looks good and I will get out to ride as soon as I finish re-doing the connections for my rear lights. I will post a report on how the bike handles with the new fork springs.

Thanks for listening to my ramblings, and I hope my experience provides somebody with a little info for their project.

Thanks again to you guys for the info prior to my attempt.

Sorry there are no pics attached but there's not much to see, it really was basic stuff.

There were too many characters to post at one time!! Sorry!

301.75 miles 4 hrs 47 min according to Yahoo Maps. PM me maybe we can come up with a place and time to meet. Stay safe on your way over there. Speaking of which what is your route to get there myabe you will be passing through or close on the way to.

Laterz

Shoot forgot to comment on the fix. Glad that worked out for ya. Be sure to let us know how she handles now. I cheated on that Cap Nut, I put the tube back in the triple tree and tightened it down and took a wrench to her. Didn't need to heat mine thankfully the trees held her tight enough to break it loose. Didn't the new destructions tell you how much oil and what oil to put back in the forks? You know I can believe a man would read the instructions, I can't believe he would tell his friends he did LMAO.

I put the tubes back into the tree and tried to use that as a vice but I didn't want to tighten the pinch bolt any tighter. It still spun inside the tree. So, I wrapped a thick piece of rubber (an old truck inner tube) around the fork tube and had 2 guys hold back on the tube while my other friend used the wrench and giant bar on that to break it loose. The instructions said to put in the amount of oil as recommended in the manual, and Progressive said to use the std weight oil, not the heavy duty stuff. And, yea, I can't believe I admitted I read the instructions....BUT when it comes to my azz being on that bike and my life depends on it......I ain't too proud to admit it! :roflmao:

Ps. I'll send you a link in a PM to our ride plan. We do go through WV on 340 I believe. Take a look at it and you let me know.

Hey Chris, good to hear from you again! Watch scraping those pipes on the corners sitting lower!

Ok HRK, where were you when I was struggling??? :roflmao: THAT is info I really could've used. If it makes any difference, when I was tightening that axle bolt I made sure the wheel rolled free. Hopefully, I will take it out for a spin tonight. Also, Hopefully everything is good with the way I re-assembled. I followed the SM EXACTLY.....(now you're making me nervous)

ReeseSS, Hey how's it going? Long time no speak! I was wondering where you were, I haven't seen you on here in a while, How is everything?