Idle issue/CV Kit installed

This could be several things.
1) Verify that the needle jet did not fall out. This is the stainless steel nozzle that sits above the emulsion tube and protrudes into the carburetor throat. The needle rises and falls inside this nozzle which regulates fuel delivery. Also make sure this needle jet is installed in the correct direction. I will attach pictures.
2) Check the slide to make sure it moves freely and is not hanging up. If the slide cannot close the needle will remain lifted out of the needle jet thus allowing fuel to be drawn up into the venturi during idle.
3) Vacuum leaks and connections. Make sure the vacuum line is correctly connected and the MAP sensor on top of the manifold is connected to the wire harness. Switching the vacuum line with a breather line can cause a multitude of problems. Many of the newer models (04-06) have multiple hose connections; vacuum is on top, the other on the side of the carb is a vent for the emissions canister.

Also worth mentioning, make sure the kit was installed on a carb that has the stock slide (aluminum casting) and not a Dynojet Thunderslide (black composite). These parts are not compatible.

Let's try to eliminate a few things and work our way down. There is nothing in the kit itself that would cause the described problem so I suspect something is not aligned or clogged. You may have already verified each of these but I'm just going to list them out in case it is something you came across.

Slide: Is there any cracking or wear around the edges of the diaphragm? If the rubber diaphragm does not seat perfectly in the groove on the carburetor then it will create problems.

Slide and needle, order of assembly: When assembling the slide and needle back into the carb make sure the needle goes first into the slide, followed by the plastic spring retaining, followed by the spring. If the previous assembly included any washers, shims, or a rubber spacer be sure to remove these since those are not stock or original. Worth mentioning again, make sure you have the stock slide (cast aluminum) and not a Thunderslide (black composite plastic).


Carburetor to Manifold connection: There is a rubber boot that seals the carburetor's spigot end to the manifold. It is imperative that this be a perfect seal. If an aftermarket air cleaner has any spacers or offset that pulls the carb slightly away from this snug fit it will cause a vacuum leak. The slightest amount of vacuum leak at this point will wreak havoc on the idle and tuning.

Vacuum line from top of carburetor to fuel petcock valve. Any leaks in this line would be similar to the manifold leak. Also if that vacuum line is not providing a constant vacuum signal to the fuel petcock it will not be able to stay open and starve the carburetor bowl for fuel.

Mixture screw: Should be set to approximately 2 turns. Screw the mixture screw in until it gently seats (do not tighten) and then back it out between 1-3/4 and 2 turns. If someone removed this screw previously make sure the mixture packing (spring, washer, o-ring) are still installed on the end of the mixture screw. The o-ring can get stuck down inside the hole so you may need a pick or wire to pull it out. The order of that assembly is Screw>Spring>Washer>O-ring.

Debris clogging air/fuel passages: This is related to the mixture screw and pilot jet. Both are connected via some tiny passages. If debris gets into these passages then the mixture screw and pilot jet cannot function. To clean the passages, remove the mixture screw, mixture screw packing (spring, washer, and o-ring). Remove the pilot jet. Use compressed air to blow out the passages. There are 3 holes to clean out; the pilot jet passage, the mixture screw passage, and the air intake jet that sits at the front lower face of the carburetor. There are 2 of these holes at the front of the carb facing the air cleaner. Spray some cleaner (rubbing alcohol, carb cleaner) into the pilot jet passage, then apply compressed air to this hole while holding your finger over the mixture screw hole. Repeat the same to the mixture screw hole while holding your finger over the pilot jet hole. Both actions should expel air out of the air intake passage on the front of the carburetor. Replace the mixture packing onto the mixture screw and reinstall. The order of that assembly is Screw>Spring>Washer>O-ring.

Float level: While typically not an issue unless this gets drastically moved it is still worth noting. Should the tiny metal tab be bent during assembly of the float bowl it could throw off the float level and effect the correct amount of fuel being delivered. Below is a drawing from the factory manual showing the correct float setting. Most people can simply eyeball this setting.


Also, this may seem rather simple but I've done this myself, make sure you are starting with the fuel valve in the On position and not Reserve.

WOW! Talk about luck!

So now I'm curious, after replacing the manifold boot seal and it was running fine, what caused the bike to die on your ride? Did the mechanic you stumbled upon say what caused this?

One thing to check in situations where it seems the carb is starving for fuel is the gas cap. The cap has an internal check valve that allows air to be drawn in to displace the fuel as it is used. If that valve sticks the fuel cannot flow freely from the tank. The best way to tell is by loosening the cap while riding, if it sounds like pressure being released then I would replace the cap.