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Idle Jet Question

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by EglideRide, Mar 16, 2010.

  1. EglideRide

    EglideRide New Member

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    I purchased an 02 Electa Glide Standard TC88 with factory intake and exhaust in Dec '09. I was having a lot of coughing through the carb from day one. After reading the incredibly informative HP website I purchased the deluxe stage 1 kit. My carb had a #45 idle and a #190 main jet.

    The Kit is installed. Now the idle jet is #46 and the main is #190. The EZ is now set at 3 1/2 turns from seat. The bike runs smooth without coughing. The plugs have been changed and will be checked tomorrow. The carb doesn't appear to be running lean anymore. It is defiantly not running rich.

    I have three questions.

    1. Since the EZ is out 3 1/2 should I install a #47 idle jet?
    2. Does the main jet need to be increased from the current #190?
    3. Is it common to go higher than #46 with factory intake and exhaust?

    Thanks,
    Ryan
    EglideRide, Mar 16, 2010
    #1
  3. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    if all is good, i would leave it alone and enjoy the ride!!!
    chucktx, Mar 16, 2010
    #2
  4. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    I agree with what Chuck said.
    FLHTbiker, Mar 16, 2010
    #3
  5. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    These guys beat me to it (thanks chuck and flht) but stick with the 46/190 combo unless you add a free breathing air cleaner or open mufflers.
    kenfuzed, Mar 16, 2010
    #4
  6. EglideRide

    EglideRide New Member

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    When I do add a free breather and open exhaust, would you recommend using the jets that came in the kit? I believe they were #48 and #200 or #205.

    Thanks
    Ryan
    EglideRide, Mar 17, 2010
    #5
  7. EglideRide

    EglideRide New Member

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    I rode in today and pulled the front plug. I have taken pictures and would like to get any opinions on the electrode color. The pictures are of the same plug. The color is light gray. Does this indicate the AFR is correct?

    Thanks
    Ryan

    Picasa Web Albums - Ryan - Desktop
    EglideRide, Mar 18, 2010
    #6
  8. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    The plugs look fine. Light plug color is typical for a Twin Cam with correct jetting though you didn't mention how many miles have been ridden since the tuning. I like to get a minimum of 60-70 miles, 100 is even better, before checking the plugs. The white insulator should be a light tan color.

    I think you are running good at this point but you could always check your plugs after another 100 miles to see if there is any change.
    kenfuzed, Mar 18, 2010
    #7
  9. EglideRide

    EglideRide New Member

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    Thanks Ken. I'll check it in another 100 miles. The plugs have only 20 - 25 miles on them.
    EglideRide, Mar 18, 2010
    #8
  10. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    I think that your response was right on. If it is running fine, why mess with it anymore? Here is another question for everyone. I just brought my 96 Sportster into the engine shop for a 1200 upgrade. I just put a D&M Spike air cleaner on it (during the winter) but has not been ran with it on yet. I had asked my builder about the jetting because not only did I add that D&M, I also put on 2" non-baffled pipes. He had said that the bike would not need to be rejetted, just tuned a little. Does anyone disagree with this?
    JohnnyBiker, Mar 25, 2010
    #9
  11. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i disagree......your are trying to run an 883 carb on a 1200 engine....with breathing mods....the carb needs rejeted it will still run poorly due to the non baffled pipes....
    chucktx, Mar 25, 2010
    #10
  12. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    I agree with your assessment about the carb needing to be re-jetted, but I am not sure I agree with that the bike will run poorly because of the lack of baffles. Baffles cause restriction and causes less performance, not increase performance and also are there just to make the bike less noisy. It is just the same as having a straight pipe on a car.
    JohnnyBiker, Mar 26, 2010
    #11
  13. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    you will find that straight pipes, whether on a car or bike are only good for W.O.T. as in drag racing.....not worth a crap for around town or hi way....mileage will suffer as will power/torque.........run it and let us know how it works for you.....have fun and stay safe!!
    chucktx, Mar 26, 2010
    #12
  14. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    johnny he might be able to tune the bike with no baffles , But you will loose some HP & tQ & a lot of your top end pulling power , if you want loud pipes & power try looking onto big city thunder baffles , they have a web site & it will inform you on how baffles work , these engines need some back presure & the BCT will do that & still have good sound
    cowboy, Mar 26, 2010
    #13
  15. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    You need some back pressure on the bike for torque and HP gains. A good baffle will give you better performance and still have a good sound. Ride safe
    FLHTbiker, Mar 26, 2010
    #14
  16. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    While it may be true that baffles can restrict flow at certain rpm's, they also act to prevent reversion. Reversion is when both exhaust gasses and sonic waves return back up the pipes. Aside from causing popping at deceleration when cooler air reaches the hotter gasses at the heads, reversion also can rob low end power as it actually reduces outbound exhaust flow.
    kenfuzed, Mar 27, 2010
    #15

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