Inner clutch hub

TRG,
Sounds like a BIG Sux to be you situation..... I am of no help except from the sidelines..... if it is of ANY consolation....took the daughter to a pay to catch stocked catfish pond (yup....same one as before) and she/we caught 23 pounds of cat in 7 fish......BIG ones this time!! only cost.....well, lets just say it was almost a visit to the HD shop.......wife doesn't know the HD part!!!:roflmao:

dont use the impact....with the primary chain still on the sprockets,place a piece of wood between the chain and sprockets....it will turn until it binds...then ya can loosen it up....normally you would take an old clutch plate, and weld a handle on it then slip it onto the clutch studs and let tthe handle rest on the floor and unscrew the nut through the big center hole in the clutch plate, but from what i can gather, you have no studs anymore....also make sure the lockwasher...it has tabs on it....are all unlocked...might be 3 or 4 tabs bent over......keep us posted..

im ready for some nice channel cat....fried up nice with hushpuppies....mmmmmm
i bet your daughter is one proud fisherman!!!!!
good for you.....

the reason i dont recomend an impact.....threads are easily gaulded by the high speed, and on the clutchhub nut it is fine threads. a lot of folks dont use them gingerly...they just hammer away and end up doing more damage than good. i use impacts, but have 40 years of experience with them....the casual user could cause themselves more problems.....jmo.
i figure trg has had enough problems this week!!!!!
if a person wants to use one, i just recomend using it with caution.....actually after breaking the tension by hand, then spining it off with the impact will make a job a bit faster......

one other thing on impacts, i cant tell you how many damaged threads i have repaired from folks using one to install nuts and bolts.....just a rambling thought.....

Man that suc's , sound's like it was not put together right to start with , & do just as chuck say's or you will have a bunch of hard earned Money spent at some shop you don't need

Ok you need to do a couple of things.

Get an aluminum pipe from Lowes about $4 for 3ft this is your breaker bar

You need a large socket for the comp nut which JMO getting off with an impact is ok, putting on isn't ok. But you can loosen with the breaker bar, I believe the socket is like 1 1/4 inch but it's at home and I don't recall exactly,

Remove the comp nut and assembly and set asside leaving the chain and inner gear on the shaft,
Remove the adjuster cover and nuts
Remove the clutch hub nut, left handed thread again use the breaker bar.

Pull both off the comp gear, chain and clutch assembly

Dissasemble the clutch, pulling the spring, cover, clutch and steel plates.

If you have a press, remove the C clip from the back of the clutch hub and press out the inner hub. Get your new hub load up the clutch bearing with assembly lube and press the new inner hub into the outer hub. Get it to seat and install C clip.

Put some antiseize on the trans mainshaft for the clutch hub to go back over.

Clean up the threads on the comp nut and clutch basket nut use brake cleaner to get the old locktite out.

Slide basket, chain and sprocket gear on as one unit, best done with a friend to help hold one or the other you may have to wiggle the clutch basket a bit.

Should seat all the way back.


Reassemble per the manual, you have to put the plates back in a specific order. Check them while they are out, if worn replace.

The comp nut gets red locktite and 100+ ft pounds of torque, if you don't have a tq wrench I use the PFT setting on my breaker bar.

Clutch basket gets less tq.

Set the primary adjuster so you have about 5/8's movement up and down on the chain.

Adjust the clutch per the manual, I find it best to dial back the fine adjuster on the cable, then pull in and push out the clutch handle a few times to seat the balls and ramps in the trans cover, then leave the lever in and screw in the adjuster at the clutch, the lever should move out, get it to where you can pull the cable away from the housing about a dimes width +/- a bit. Lock down the jam nut with some blue loctite on the clutch adj nut only,

I made up a socket with a nut on top so I can use an open end wrench while holding the adjuster with a T allen.

Now you can reassemble, clean all the primary cover bolts and blue loctite them, put on new gasket, cuss while it continues to fall off and not stay on the HD alignment pins, finally get it on .

I use an electric battery scrfewdriver or drill set on the lowest tq setting with an allen bit to put the screws in. Otherwise you'll be there all day putting them on by hand.

Tighten to tq by hand though in the proper patter

Refil with 710:roflmao:

Ride and fine adjust with the adjuster on the cable.

Forgot we made a little three step lock tool out of some plastic, looks like three stairs on one side and the rest of the block on the other, locks right in there won't damage teeth etc.

Jims makes and sells one, but you can make your own.
Its called the All Primary Locking Tool PN 2234 on page 39 of the catalog complete tools section 20 which you can download. See the image and see what I mean about making one up out of a hard plastic.


Wood won't work well it will chew it up then you get to clean more stuff.