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Kawasaki 1500 exhaust recommendation

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Titan, Nov 9, 2005.

  1. Titan

    Titan New Member

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    '05 Kawasaki 1500 Classic, want to dump the stock catalytic converter and put something on it that sounds decent, and preferably doesn't require a Power Commander or some such device. It is fuel injected, so I thought a fairly moderate pipe change wouldn't need a device to fool the ECM. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  2. CD

    CD Guest

    Whenever you change the airflow you have to make sure the air / fuel ratio is correct. On a carbed bike, you rejet and on a EFI bike, you use a device like the Power Commander DFO etc.

    If you choose not to correct the mixture, you most likely will run lean, increase cylinder temps and of course blue the pipes.
  3. bikerjim1

    bikerjim1 Moderator

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    As CD states, in your best interest, you should make sure the mixture is correct. You have invested a lot of money in your scooter, so what's a few more bucks to make sure it won't crap out on you? Nothing wrong with making the changes to personalize the scooter for ya, but why go half way with doing it right? :cool:
  4. Titan

    Titan New Member

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    thanks. Now, all I have to do is find a system that is recommended for this bike...seems they stop in 2004 on this model, or go to other similar models for 2005...but, not mine. I'll keep looking, and I guess I'll have to budget for some computer gizmo to make it run more richly.

    On that note, besides bluing the pipes, is it otherwise actually HARMFUL to the exhaust valves or other parts not to put some Powercommander-type thing on it?

    Thanks again!
  5. CD

    CD Guest

    Bluing the pipes on seriously lean engine is the least of your worries.

    Think of it this way. In order to pass EPA mandates your bike comes stock at a air to fuel ratio of 13.5-14.0 or higher. Most engines run best in the 12-13 range. That means you need 12.5 lbs (for example) of air for every pound of fuel burned. This would give you the most power without being too rich or lean. Every engine is different as are conditions.

    If you run rich, soot and carbon build up and eventually you will burn an intake or exhaust valve. This is due to incomplete combustion.
    If you run too lean, the exhaust gas temperatures go way up increasing combustion chamber heat, cooling requirements etc. If you go too far lean you can very easily cook the valves, damage the heads, warp the bores, burn holes in pistons etc. You will get detonation, pinging and rattling as warning signs along with lean pop.

    I have no vested interest in selling you a tuning device. I do however highly recommend checking with a knowledgeable expert in your area for advice.
  6. Titan

    Titan New Member

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    CD, thanks for the education! Now, you've saddled me with the warning of what could occur, and further mandated I find a "knowledgeable service" source....THAT, I'm afraid, could be the hard thing to do!

    I appreciate you taking the time to help...

    Cheers!

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