M-6 primary chain tensioner

I am debating the purchase of an m-6 automatic primary chain tensioner. In theory it sounds like a good idea, but I am unsure. It wouldn't be the first gimmic that I bought (DOH!). If anyone could share some insight on this product, I would be most grateful.

Don't waste your $$$. Haven't seen a good report on one of those yet & I've seen people talk about 'em for years.

The Hayden M-6 chain tensioner is one of the top best products I ever bought for my RoadKing. I bought it back in 1999, put about 75,000 miles on it and just last year I replaced the shoe only because I had the primary apart at the time. Since I put this chain tensioner on my 1998 RK, I have not thought about adjusting the chain EVER!

They are very nice on the phone too, give them a call.

Hayden Enterprises -->1-800-664-6872<--

I also have the HB-125 for the same reasons HRK does, but the M-6 has been around a long time with satisfied users. If I was putting one in now, I would also consider the self adjusting newer ones!

There must be a substantial difference in the product for big twins vs. the one for Sportsters / Buells, as everyone I've seen who used the auto. chain tensioner in a Sportster or Buell ended up taking it out due to problems with it. And on an XL, the primary is so easy to adjust that I never considered buying an auto. chain tensioner. I noted that "freeride" has a 2000 model Sportster & so do I.

Talk about a coincidence; my previous bike was an Aqua Pearl 1995 Sportser 883. Art, do you know what the life expectantcy is for the stock adjuster shoe? My bike has just shy of 20,000 miles on it, and has been well cared for. I contemplated the m-6, but you are right in saying that the chain is simple to adjust. The makers of the m-6 claim it makes the bike shift smoother, but with stock components and a properly adjusted primary chain, I am thinking the shifting should be a non-issue.

Put it this way - the '95 has over 80,000 miles on the clock & I haven't replaced the adjustment shoe yet. And I think this is part of the reason why - several years ago I switched from H-D "SportTrans" (conventional 75W90) primary fluid to Red Line 75W90 synthetic (which has the proper additive for a wet clutch) & I'm glad I did. I immediately noticed that shifting was easier, more "click" than "clunk" & over time, I found that I didn't need to adjust the chain as often. And I didn't need to do it very often to begin with - I couldn't even tell you the mileage interval, I can just feel it when the chain gets a little loose.

Thanks, Art. So with my bike's 20,000 easy miles, I should be good to go. I assume the chain still has a lot of life left, as well. Time to adjust the chain though, as it makes an audible "clunk" when I put it in gear. Hope I didn't damage the chain by having out of adjustment. I'll be looking to pick up some Redline 75W90 synthetic primary fluid. Thanks for the tip, and also for saving me from purchasing another "gimmick".

I try to give as detailed an answer as I can so others can make up their own minds about it.. I did not know what bike freeride had. And on the other hand it would make sense that you really shouldn't need to adjust them too much considering that those chains prolly don't stretch that much after the first few hundred miles. Maybe that's why mine has been so trouble free.

Freeride, When it comes to sporty's Art_NJr is the man!

I still think mine shifts a little better with the spring tensioner on the chain.

I've got about 30K on my M-6 now. I had to mess with it a couple times since the initial installation - had to re-shim the springs - but the bike shifts better & the primary is quieter with the M-6. (I use H-D Formula + in the trans & ATF in the primary, but thinking about trying the Red Line synthetic stuff in the trans..)