Motor wont turn when warm.

I have a fxr with a big inch motor. yesterday while out enjoying meself it would not turn over after it was warm. Then this morning it fired right up. It has been starting just fine although the starter has been dragging for a while, like the compression releases are not engaging at times. It has a new stock Harley battery and it does have a high torque starter. Thanks

What Ken said.

After 13 years of owning my 98 RK I was looking at the ground from the battery to the starter and found a lot of paint at the bracket connection from the factory assembly. Grind that sh_t off it should help.

ACR or manual releases?

Yep two grounds one from the battery to the starter and one from the primary to the frame. The compression releases are electronic. fuse is good. Put a volt meter on the starter cable have 12 volts to the starter drags down to 7 when I hit the magic button. rebuilt the solenoid last summer. I was in the process of checking my brushes on the starter and broke a long bolt about the time I started. Glad it's an FXR and not a bagger right now.

bagger is a walk in the park i can have the starter out in 10 min . as far as your voltage droping down to seven when you hit the starter button thats alot of voltage drop , take a volt meter and put the positivge lead on the starter batt positive take the neg lead of the volt meter and put it on the batt positive then hit the start button should read no more than half a volt under load if you see more than that your drop is on the positive side of the circuit do the same on all the ground circuits . what your reading when hooking up the volt meter like this is drop in voltage ! helps you find the problem before throwing parts at it , you can ohm cables all you want but it only takes one strand of wire to make contact . you cant flow much amperage on one strand can we! voltage drop across circuits is the only way to possitively find the culprit .

Thanks Hotrodking and Baggerpaul. Great info. Ill giver a shot.

They are electronic. Last check they were. That is the good thing about manual compression releases. You know for a fact when they are in. Thanks

This is very interesting. I never would have thought about checking this way. Nice! The real questions is - how much drop is too much. You say half a volt, seems like a tight tolerance. I wonder how much more you could go and still be reliable.

more than a volt drop is high resistance in the circuit . lets not forget were looking at voltage drop . not ohms here . so as the voltage drops on the return side of the circuit the amperage drops even faster .! not one tech in my shop is allowed to bring me a diagnosis with ohms . its allways inconclusive as to were the problem lies in the circuit and allways will end up in replacement of parts sensors or computer that were not needed . show me a good circuit that passes a voltge drop and ill call the customer with the repair price . thats the way i teach all my techs ohms diagnostics have there place for sure . but current ramping and voltage drops have the best outcome every time.

Voltage drops and amp draws are great. Ohms will show the same reading with one strand of wire or a piece of 4/0 welding cable. I am happy to see that other places are using voltage drops. They are part of the basic electrical classes I teach and always work.