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Need Help with a HOOKER

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by gunnysgt, Jan 10, 2005.

  1. gunnysgt

    gunnysgt New Member

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    Just got a set of Hooker tuned mufflers for my Glide today but there were no instructions in the box. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the Torque and Horsepower settings on these puppies. I took the cap off and there are four allen head bolts under it. The bolts are at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. There is a large T for torque I guess under the 12 bolt and a large H for hp under the 6 bolt. I was told that it is best to set the front cylinder for T and Rear for H. Anybody wanna help with this :confused:
  2. EGlide

    EGlide New Member

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    r.e. Hooker

    GunnySgt,
    I have a 2002 electraglide classic with the Hooker true duals. I have both my pipes set to torque (T). This provides a balanced exhaust with the focus on providing the most torque.
    If you are using the stock HD header pipe I have heard it is best to set the left muffler to "T" and the right muffler to "HP". This supposadly provides good response and perfomance with the stock header. The stock header does not flow evenly out both sides. you can tell this by feeling the airflow on each pipe.
    If you look into the muffler with the bolts loose you can actually see the baffles close completely for Torque and open for HP.

    I played with the settings and found that the HP setting (open baffle) can be quite loud!!.

    Make sure you use a good antiseize on the allen bolts.

    Hope this helps.
    Mike
  3. gunnysgt

    gunnysgt New Member

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    Thanks EGlide, that's a great start. I actually have V&H dresser duals as head pipes so I also have a 2 into 2 system. That issue about running them differently made more sense for a standard header. I suspect I should run them at the same setting as you do. Do I remove the two allen bolts and spin the baffle 180 degrees then to get the torque setting? The T is on top now, I guess the H should be. The anti seize is always a good idea when dealing with exhaust.
  4. CD

    CD Guest

    Do not remove the bolts~~~~~!!!!!

    Simply back each one out equally about 6-8 turns. Turn one then the other evenly like 2 turns then the other two turns. Otherwise you will **** the end cap and can break the little weld holding the bolt in.

    After backing them out some the baffle will feel loose. You only need to loosen the bolts far enough to rotate the baffle. Find the notch on the baffle and that indicates your position relative the torque and power settings. Basically the baffle has two half cones and when opposed you have max back pressure and over lapped minimum back pressure.

    Since the left pipe or rear jug has a shorter run, it will respond a little more to some added back pressure. We found you could alter the power curve by adjusting that baffle alone. With it turned a little toward torque the back pressure is about equal to the front jug or right side.

    After you adjust the baffle to where you want it, tighten the bolts again evenly.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 11, 2005
  5. gunnysgt

    gunnysgt New Member

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    Thanks CD I really appreciate that info. I'll look for that notch in the baffle. So from what your telling me it usually works best when the rear pipe baffle is closed a little more than the front to give the rear a little more back pressure because of the shorter pipe run. I lean more toward overall torque than HP so I will leave the rear on full torque than open up the front pipe a bit to equal the front and rear jugs out. Does that sound like a good plan? :rolleyes:
  6. CD

    CD Guest

    You can do it that way. Leave the rear jug to torque and just crack the front jug open some. If you use a flashlight and look up inside you can see how far it is open. Won't take much to equal it out.
  7. gunnysgt

    gunnysgt New Member

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    Opened up the baffle on the front jug to the first notch around the two o'clock position on the edge of the outer circle. I'd like to take it out to try it but it's 33 degrees and raining right now. You said NOT to take out the allen heads at 3 and 9 oclock that you loosen to adjust the baffles. I bought the mufflers with the fishtail ends but decided they were too darn long, going to get the flat end caps. The bolts that held on the fish tails were the 12 and 6 o'clock bolts. Looks like the bolts that hold on the flat cap are the 3 and 9 bolts that adjust the core. Kinda looks like you'd have to take those out to put on the flat end cap. Any suggestions? You've been extremely helpful and I really appreciate your patience and input.

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