need jug/flow tech help..

ok..I was dead set on taking the stock heads off(1450/carb o2wide glide)
and porting and polishing them. After all more flow means more go...
done alot working on and helping my Dad in his machine shop. We have a local fella here that has 30 yrs of HD shop and training.He went to the last tech/shop class offered by HD more years ago.(very good reputation) It's all he works on.
When I spoke to him he said before I go that far I may want to switch to a S&S carb first. (already have slip on and air cleaner/ crank vents on the bike).
He said the head these days flow much better than the oldies and alot would be Carb related than I probably know. He has said we'll do it for ya but by riding I would barely notice the port/polish work versus the S&s by simply seat of the pants. Ok then....all I wanna do is what every engine should do HP/cubic inch. or as close as possible..again I will not into spend a gazzillion dollars on a 100cc (1550) just to get into the HP level this engine should produce. He did mention something about going 11:1 on the pistons no need to mess with heads said they run great and stay trip dependabe that way. any one have this set up. 1690 and 1550 kits are simply out of the question and IMHO not worth it. just wanna get this air flow process uh flowing like all the race cars we have built and drag. Gotta get it right on two cyclinders for sure and $3,000-$4,000 dollars more vs a simple port and polish and or S&S. I guess overall how can another CARB make it better flow when the hang up is the heads... or have the tolerances improved that much. I can see the difference in the head and exhuast pipe and the head vs the air intake.
the CV should be able to hold up its end of the flow...any input? Not doubting the fella just looking for other fact or experienced knowledgeable setups without paying so much for 7 more cubic inches.

Way complex subject for me to get into right now voodo. We are heading out for the Bike Talk ride and this will take some time to get typed up. Suffice it to say that it really is one of those "depends on how you slice it" pie things.

thanks

I'll be watching for your opinion..is the big difference in the air flow speed of a mikuni and s&S much different? Heard they were.. I know the difference between the butterfly and centered jet vs the mikuni flat slide and jet position vs flow of air but like ya said all in how the pie is sliced..best setup an all..things gottaa work together.

ok CD..

anytime now to type it out? Much appreciated.

I would question the rationale of changing to a S&S Super E in lieu of the CV or Mikuni. The CV often gets a bad rap because someone just does not like them etc and the Mikuni because it is imported.

To my thinking, any of the above carburetors will fine. Some will much better throttle response and some give more top end power. It really boils down to the pot of stew you are cooking.

I have often said (preached?) that what you do should have an end plan or goal so all of the components match and expensive pieces are left on a shelf.
I agree that the heads flow better but, here is the quandary with using a Super E is getting good MPG. It takes a lot of tweaking to get it even close to a Mikuni and more to a well setup CV. There is a company celled Dakota Kt that modifies CV's to be top notch performers and get good mileage.

Throttle response is another concern especially with high overlap cams that are very low in idle vacuum. Whack the throttle of a well tuneed Super E and she can still spit back at ya really fast. Whack it with a CV and if properly setup, it just responds. The Mikuni is much like this because of the slide. Opening the butterfly of the Super E is much faster then raising the slide allowing fora smoother transition.

We depend on air / velocity to make the engine run. At idle and low RPM the cam and carb must work together or it will fall on it's face. When I used a Super E, I found that I rolled the throttle on without thinking about it preventing a bog. With a CV or a Mikuni you usually do not have to worry about it.

88"? 95"? it depends on how you look at it. I run a 95" with flat tops (9.5) TW37G STOCK heads with Rinehart's and pull 100 ft lb torque. I got between 40-50 MPG on the Bike Talk ride. I am down on HP because the heads are stock. If I had them cleaned up some I could get very close to 100 / 100. That's on a RK so if you put that on a FXDWG with the very wide torque curve you should have a bike capable of trips and having around town fun. And, it is easy on the valve train. The CV will if you set it up properly but, the Mikuni will be close right out of the box.

There is absolutely no need to buy new cylinders it has been well established that there is plenty of meet to go 95" with a simple bore job.

I would do it this way on a carbed 88A.
95" using flat tops and stock barrells.
TW37 cam, new tensioners
Adjustable pushrods
Port and polish or even just smooth and clean up the heads some.
Adjustle Crane or Dyna ignition.
Exhaust that is a proven performer

A bad exhaust like straight drag pipes can totally kill the whole project so choose a good pipe.


You can pull this off for pretty good money IMHO.

HRK,

No problem on the machine shop info, post away. My only beef is members posting to competitors sites.

As usual you have written an excellent post. I have a question for you. You did not mention any HSR's at all. We have had good luck with the HSR42 and 45 on some potent EVO's and TC engines.

I can see and agree with the reasoning about the E when doing a power build but, when drivability, durability, MPG come into play would would you do?

Just out of curiosity, can you go over the way you would build a 95" torque engine with a wide curve? On a budget of course. I have managed to get to the 100ft lb mark with stock heads but I know flowing them will not get me all the way to 100hp without a lumpy cam so I will be more than happy with all that torque.
The goal we have is to get good power and mileage without killing the valve train. Let's use the FXDWG here as a reference.

I am interested to see how close we compare in thoughts

thanks for all

the tech info..the stage one air cleaner I always do..funny how a few years back you could simply carve out the hole on the back of the Air cleaners now ya gotta buy that sucker stuff..LOL....oh well I have always been under the impression/thought and use the CV works good for me the S and S..well kinda touchy to me...the mikuni I've never owned.. I just change the jets on the CV (part of the fun) adjust the air/mix and wah-lah(okay and the needle..) Actually the carb I got on the 02 is a CV last used the 98 sporty(thunderjet not in use ) I get great mileage... I always enjoy the torque and the driveability for trips. I'll take torque tree pulling power anytime. Looking forward to this project this winter..the machine work/flow is no problem. just looking for the right setup not into chasing it with money down a slippery slope.THANK YOU AGAIN for the info always appreciated!!! I'll be looking through the CD catalog for the goodies needed.