New 95" build

I have a 1999 Ultra, awesome ride but kind of get left in the dust at times. I ride fairly agressive alone, but also do a fair amount of 2 up touring. I bought a 95" kit with flat tops and a set of screamin eagle performance heads NOT the HTCC ones. I looked in my Screamin Eagle book and it says that combination will be 10:1. I want to change to a gear drive and am looking at the Andrews 31G as I want good torque for city driving but was told that I would lose torque/speed at the top end. I was told the 37G may ping with 91 octane under heavy load. I was told that a 50G is a good option as well...so many choices..by the way I wanted to stay with the Andrews. I am also running Rinehart true duals, feuling oil pump and lifters,and a Baker 6 speed. most of my driving is done in the 2400 - 3200 RPM range
Any help or input would be greatly appreciated and also should I invest in a Power commander?

Use the Cometic .03" head gaskets for good squish and get a set of Andrews TW-55G cams...They should work real nice with that combo...its what my father in law runs with the same setup you are talking about.

I also ran a set of TW-55's in a 10.5 compression build and they worked nice...since then, Andrews has lowered the recommended compression used with the 55's right into the range you will be running.

Thanks for the responses and the comments I will let you know how it works out for me...will go with the 31G and the .30 Cometic gasket

Just went a through similar build. (you didn't mention roller rockers) The main thing to remember is to pay very close attention to fitments. Check the gears in situ before they get into any oil and make the lashes correct from the start (you can order the corrected gears while you are in the break-in procedure). The one major headache with this build was the end play on the rockers. I replaced the rocker support with the SE forged one from HD and they were not spot faced inside for the rockers so they wore quickly where the rockers unevenly touched and required shimming - noisy! I also had a bad feuling lifter (1 out of 4!!) that was not passing oil up the pushrod. That was a bastard! I finally started the engine without the rocker covers to spot that one...messy with oil flinging around.

I used the S&S 570G's (love 'em!); feuling pump (didn't need it with this '04); bored stock cylinders, and a pristine set of '06 heads with SE beehive springs with a bit more pressure; SE adjustable pushrods; SE forged 9.6:1 pistons. I skimmed .050 from the heads and have static compression of 195 psi which is about 10.3:1 (rough on the stock starter) but I do not want another hole in these heads! I do not like compression releases at all. I got a slight ping at low speed so the spark was retarded a point or two with the Power Commander. This bike is a powerhouse - very pleasing to ride but then needed a better pressure plate - (Barnett SR-4)...

Good luck with it, you may have reservations during the set-up and break-in but the build is worth the time and aggravation...

Thanks and happy trails,
Bill C.

thanks, yes I am also adding a set of forged steel roller rockers from Mad dog that will take up to a 650+ lift in the build as well. I used these in my evo build and they worked well.
List as of now is
stage 2,1550 screamin kit with cast big bore flat top pistons
screamin performance pro heads
feuling, super pump oil pump and hydraulic tappets
roller rockers
Crane adjustable push rods
.30 Cometic head gasket
Andrews 31G cams and gear drive (2000 - 5800 RPM power range)
power commander 3
Rinehart true duals
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anyone think of anything else that is needed prior to the build as I would hate to have to stop midway?

Thanks

Maybe a bigger set of balls to crack that throttle when it's done, that's about it! Sounds like a ground pounder to me. Can't wait to hear/see some feedback when she's all done. Good luck.

You are only one or two items away from what is called the Hippo 570g build on HTT site. SE flat tops with SE performance heads .030 cometic head gaskets & S&S 570 cams. That is a proven selection of parts that has made many folks very happy including me. Almost always that selection of parts will net you close or near 100/100. Mine runs sweet!

One very important thing no matter what cam you select is those heads with SE flat top pistons require the valve pockets on the pistons to be enlarged. The valves are larger on those heads & the SE cast flat tops are not cut close enough to the edge to provide enough clearence.

Here is a link for you to read through & mull over with some real good info & specs for opeing up the valve pockets on those pistons to get Rrrr done.
HarleyHogs Lair...


Good luck with your build!

Cracker

Oh & you will for sure need some type of fuel & timing management system & someone that can can dial that MM fool injection system in.

IMHO If I were doing it again with that MMuke: EFI I would swap to a carb...but thats just me.

Cracker

Ruff,

Check those Mad Dog roller rockers before you attempt to install them. They are known to have misaligned bushings that don't allow the rocker shaft to go completely through. The rocker shaft must be very free in those bushings and must be lapped to fit with non-embedding lapping compound (do not use valve lapping cd) since most shops will not have the correct piloted reamer. And use an old rocker shaft to lap them to fit. The fit must be almost sexual....!

Also check -on the bench- the rocker end play!

Bill C.

Clem is right on this one. As a matter of fact, I recommend you don't use anything made by Mad Dog big twin performance. There were long threads on the v-twin forum and harleytechtalk a few years ago with numerous failures of their roller rockers. They literally broke in half...and didn't look forged at all...more like drop cast.

I didn't get the warning early enough and had already invested in a set of Mad Dog lifters which had a failure with less than 20,000 miles on them; resulting in a torn up oil pump and some other minor damage...but I caught it quickly.

BTW: What makes you think you need roller rockers with a .510" lift cam anyway? That is a very mild cam, with only .03" more lift than stock. The conservative mechanics I've dealt with online only start recommending them for lifts OVER .550"....and just as many more have said they don't believe you need them till you are using cam lifts over .590"-.600" lifts. Save your money for something else...for that matter the fueling oil pump is completely unecessary unless you have something wrong with your pump. Many people do not know that the stock pump was designed by Mr. Fueling originally...then he went and improved it slightly for racing applications to come up with his own product. It is much cheaper and just as effective to install the baisley oil pressure spring in your cam support plate. It is a $12.00 part that boosts stock oil pressure by 15% and helps keep the lifters pumped up at high rpm for a quieter running drivetrain.

I realize you do not know me from Adam, and I don't mean to tell you how to spend your money, but I've been where you are and beyond. There is a TON of technical/performance info on the net....especially on the two forums I mentioned above...and they will tell you the same thing if you ask. They are who I learned from. Unfortunately, I didn't find the forums in time to save me some big money and I ended up building my motor up a couple times and replacing parts because I did not have a formula like Cracker followed. That HIPPO build he is mentioning is very widely known for parts that work well together. You can have top name brand products from several places, but if they are not optimized for eachother, you will spend more money for less result and be dissappointed. Do your homework before you lay out your hard earned money.


BTW: I have run .510,.550,&.560 lift cams with no roller rockers [used stock] and the same baisley spring stock pump configuration I'm recommending to you...I KNOW how well it works. I upgraded my oil pump to a newer stock pump when my original was ruined by the failed lifters. I believe all post 2003 pumps had the new gerotors that improved pressure by 5% and scavenge by 10%. I picked up a lightly used 2004 from a forum member for $70.00....huge savings over the fueling.

Agree! The Mad Dog roller rocker 'rollers' do not line up axially with the rocker shaft either - uneven wear on the roller tells the truth and depth of crap.

Just a bit more too: I just completed this 95 build a while back and have been running hell out of it. Dyno tuning showed 93HP and 105 Ft Lbs with STOCK '06 heads with stronger beehive springs and the S&S 570G cams. Sometimes you need to follow the experiences of others rather than buying a bunch of so called hi-perf junk that you really didn't need to spend the money on. Polishing the chamber in a head is a total waste of time and money. Maybe enlarging the ports is good but can be done without for perfectly good killer machine....

Bill C.

Thnaks for the info, just wanted to get the build done and as this will be the last bike I own...I am going to make it as maintaince free as possible (if possible) with as much torque and HP as I can. I know the roller rockers and feuling items are overkill...but if I never have to pull it apart and replace those items it will be well worth it. The 31G Andrews was the choice as they are for 10:1 comp and kick in at 2000 RPM with a fairly broad powerband. I appreciate the mad dog update and will go with another brand...probably SE or Jims