New update

Well yesterday I completely stripped down the carb, and cleaned it as per the manual. There were no hickups during cleaning. By the time I got her put back together, daylight was gone.

So today I start it and same bummer as last time. I started the EZ at 2, but it barely runs at all. Burps and stalls. As you turn the EZ out the motor sounds better at three and then better at 4 turns. Throttle responsive, no burps and no black smoke. Seems smooth, BUT the idle was high so I truned it down a bit. And then it would start weezing. So I bumped up the idle thinking I done. Isn't 4 turns just too high? I've read other requests for help after getting to 4 or 5 and people have said it's too many turns out.

Trying to get the middle of the road between too many turns in and too many out (as a test), I noticed that the motor didn't slow. By 5-6 turns it almost seemed like the idle was getting higher. 9 turns out and still no cough or sputter.

So I started over at 2.5 turns out and she went back to a rough idle.

Now I know I'm not an expert, but something isn't right. I know that the science of getting the idle vs lope correct isn't easy, but should this puppy run out nice at 2-3?

Does it need a larger jet, say a 50? Or just call it, and put it back to stock.

I'm hoping Ken can chime in here. I'm running out of time and patience. Not tomention I need I transportation.

ps: I've left the V-Ductor out for the time being.

Please!

Yachman,
First you need to keep all the post about this project in one spot so everyone kind find it easy enough.
When you increase the idle speed are you using the throttle stop or the air mixture screw?
Here’s what I would try next.
Set air screw at 2.5 – 3 turns out.
Set throttle stop screw until you reach about 900-1,000 rpm’s.
Re-adjust the air mixture screw.
And if you need to adjust the throttle stop screw again.

Harley,

Sorry, just this spot from here on!

It takes at least three EZ turns to keep an idle, upping the idle just makes it shake harder. But at 4 EZ turns it sounds even smoother but after 4 it seems like the idle rpm is getting higher.

I might not have a tach, but I can tell the difference between smooth and lumpy.

If you go to my 'bummer' post (sorry!!) and look at my pics of the original needle next to the EZ, the EZ is taller. Ken said that it gives the EZ the ability to make smaller, more finite, (fine tuning) adjustments. My thinking is that the needle only goes through the hole a certain distance, due to the diameter of the hole. The taller needle seems like you would have to start 1+/- turn out for the EZ just to start with. Another words, 2 turns out for the original adjuster equals 3 (ish) turns out for the EZ. Yes?

Bottom line, is 4 -5 turns out for the EZ wrong? The EZ starts to wobble around 6.

Do you have an EZ Adjuster, Harley?

Robert

No I don't have an EZ adjuster, I just use a small screw driver that I have marked for turning the screw, has always worked fine for me. My thinking is once I have it tuned it stays tuned no need for an EZ adjust.
You might try the stock air screw for adjustment, I agree with you on if the EZ is longer it would take more turns out to equal the stock turns out.
I have tuned on these particular carbs for over 15 years and in general the only troubles I have had would come down to either something I had not done correctly or a small air leak some place. Instead of spraying WD40 when looking for leaks try spraying carb cleaner, it is much more volatile and will show little air leaks when WD40 will just pass by them. Once I had a carb I couldn’t tune the pop out of, it turned out to be an air leak around the butterfly shaft. I’ve run a lot of different carbs on different bikes and the CV by far is the best and the easiest to work on.

Volatile, did you say? I'll try it, but If I blow up, my wife is gonna kill me!

No worries it'll be to late for her to do that.

Harley,

Isn't carb cleaner going to hurt the black engine paint?

didn't hurt mine, just don't get carried away with it. It don't take but a little to show a leak.
try the stock air screw first.
Or with the EZ adjust screw in place spray a littel cleaner up an around it.

Couldn't wait.

Houston, we have an intake leak. Front cyclinder, lower half of the seal. Man-o-man, the second the spray hit it dropped the rpms. Amazing how numerous trys with the WD40 didn't faze it at all.

So can I ride it for the weekend?

lower half of the cylinder gasket or the lower half of the intake seal?

Lower half of the manifold intake seal.

Ride it any?

Crazy thing is, this might be the original culprit from months ago when the bike started to ride rough at 10mph in 1st, 20 in 2nd, etc. I'm very easy on the rpms. My dealer couldn't figure it out and mostly thought it was my imagination. So a few months go by, like winter, and I stopped in to ask him again, said wd40, and etc....... But, maybe a dyno-kit might help, even get me better gas mileage (which had started to drop off last fall). Which brought me to CV Performance and this kit. $$$$$$$$$$$

And it never ends. Over the past week of starting the bike so many times, I've killed the battery. Had to soft jump it with the car. DEaler says 150.00 for a battery!!!!

It’s your call.

If it were me I’d fix it before I rode it, could cause a lot of damage and a lot more down time than fixing now. Plus more $$$$ to fix later.

that's to much for a battery, look around.
ask about battries on here someone will give you name a place to get a good one for less cost. try charging your and see if it'll hold a charge before buying a new one.

you think it is big bucks now wait untill you have to tear into the motor cause you run it to lean or sucking air.

by the way stay away from the the dyno junk stuff, Ken's parts are way better.

lets us know how it turns out for ya..

Yeah, I know I can do better on the battery. Just irks me! I tried to get the left side manifold bolts off with limited tools and nothing but a broken wrench. Special tool and all!. I already have the seals and they were supposed to be part of the project. Tough little b's!

I guess my motor's a bullitt proof monster if it's had this leak all this time?! Is that even possible or do you think it was from my attempting to remove the bolts. Damn it, Janet!

Yes, Ken you sure did say that. I'm just a dimwit. I tried that the other day, and got it as tight as I could. It looks like the flange is in as far as it will go.

Do you think I can run it 15 minutes to my local indy? Richen it up? Actually, I guess it already is!! Duh.........

Or rather the flange is as far 'down' as it will go. Looks metal to metal.

Would anyone take a 15 min ride to service?

Thanks Ken. The previous owner kept this bike in a #8 status until I bought it 2 years ago and since then it has gotten even better. (I'm one for one in 1st place finishes in bike shows!) He had the bike in CO. and it was his 7th RK over the years, until getting guilted into a RG by the buddies out there. Super person and now a client and friend. So the manifold has never been off. He did the ac, 48 and noisy Sampsons. Which he now has on his RG for the 4th bike they've been on. I've been following in his footsteps and maintain (most things) the bike myself for my first time. I wanted to tackle this carb issue, or rough running issue, myself just to prove I could do it. I'm 51, full of R/A, 4 knee surgeries, and a 2 yr old hip. Man, the concrete hurts! If I had that darn manifold bolt wrench, I probably would be allright now, and enjoying this CV Perf Kit in the Fl sun! If I could drive somewhere to purchase one tomorrow, I'd do it. ( as another point, I just remembered right now that I had loosened the right side bolts, but had to retighten them since I couldn't get the left sides off. Totally forgot that till just as I'm typing) Because I hate not finishing things myself. And it'd be cheaper than the local Indy!!