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No spark at the points

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by 59 hog, Aug 13, 2009.

  1. 59 hog

    59 hog New Member

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    hey guys, 79 shovel has new coil and spark plug wires,won't start.I have spark at the plugs but no spark at the points. My book does'nt cover points. 79 had newer setup ,had points when I got it. Not able to set gap don't know what the gap is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  2. duke76

    duke76 New Member

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    If you have spark at the plugs you must have spark at the points because the plugs is the last place to get spark and it had to have already went through the points, I would check for a fuel problem or compression because it sounds like you have spark, Todd
  3. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i agree....fire from points then on to the plugs via the coil.....what color is the spark??? is the fuel fresh?? is the timing set correctly?? the point gap is about .018 or the thickness of a match book cover.......showin my age there!!!! lol lol
  4. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    agree wi9th the two above ,& I stll have a match book cover & don't even have points old habits I guess
  5. PeaceSeeker

    PeaceSeeker New Member

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    Hey guys, I have recently bought a used 2001 Kawasaki zzr 250. It looks and sounds great, but I can only reach about 55 km/h in 6th gear. I know that I'm in 6th gear because it won't go up any higher. Am I doing something wrong, or is it the bike?

    Thanks in advance
  6. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    a 250 should run a bit faster then that , please start a thread about it in this section & we will be glad to help you out
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    55kph is what 35 mph?
  8. hddoc94565

    hddoc94565 New Member

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    59hog ah points my favorite here some pointers on points. excuse the pun The point gap shoukd be set between .018-.022 closer to .018 the better. also you need to verify that gap is the same on both point cams at least within .002 the narrow cam is frt cyl the fat lobe is rer cyl. also check the advance mech for proper snap you can do this by holding the point cam and turning it clockwise it should snap back when released. any time you replace points you should replace the condenser.you also have to retime the eng if you replace or even change the points.timing lite is best but is generally a messy job as the timing mark is hard to see thru the plastic windows that they sell for this . always end up sighting thru the open hole and getting face full of oil(keep your skin soft)lol... static timing works just as well a quick run down on static timing;
    Set points to .018 set plugs to .028
    roll eng over to frt cyl adv timing mark this mark varies as to yr and HD vs S&S
    Place a ciggy paper between the closed points
    now the fun part turn the point cam clwise to full adv the cig paper should just pull out with just a slight drag in the points
    the fun part is trying to do this with 2 hands their is a tool available to help hold the point cam most aftermkt shops have it or have at least heard of it, when you say points at the stealership all they do is look perplexed and scratch their pointy little heads.good luck and if i can answer any other ques send a message back...There i dated myself too still have the cam tool match book and zig-zag's in my tool pouch and the last time i ran points was 1992...lol
  9. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, close enough.... to convert Km/H to MPH divide the Km/H by 1.6...to go MPH- Km/H multiply MPH X 1.6.

    Heh... just about everybody carried the points cam tool around with them riding their Pans and Shovels, even the people that didn't ride had em for the bikers that forgot to take theirs;)
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2009

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