Nuts

what size is the lock nut that hold the clucth adjustment screw no 2006 88b. i want to pickup a crowsfoot wrench before i start.

If you are talking about the adjustments in the clutch cable (located alongside the left frame down tube) the adjustment requires a 1/2 and a 9/16 open end wrenches (crows foot).

no no talking about the nut on the clutch so you can adjust it.

That nut takes a 9/16" wrench. Turn the screw in until it bottoms out and then back it out about 1 full turn and lock it in with the clutch rod adjusting nut. Take up slack (if any) at the clutch lever leaving about 3/16" to 1/4" free play.

If you turn the screw back out less than a full turn you risk destroying your throwout bearing. Use neutral as much as possible at stoplights. Holding the clutch in for extended periods of time will eventually break the throwout bearing into little pieces of metal that could end up in your gearbox. How do I know? I've done it twice already.

At least this holds true for earlier 4 speed trannies like mine.

thanks joshbob

But you are suppose to completely take all the pressure off yer clutch with the clutch cable before adjusting the clutch cable. Right.:rant:

Yes. First loosen clutch cable adjustment so plenty of play in clutch lever, then loose pushrod locknut, turn pushrod 'till it just makes contact, then back it out 1/2 turn, lock it down. Then go back and adjust cable for just a little slack.

Adjust yer cable for yer clutch lever. Then ride it and see if it catchs where you want it to catch.

I guess the set up on my bike is different from yours. I would advise, however, to back the screw out 1 full turn before tightening the lock nut down. My screw has a slot, so I have to use a screwdriver and wrench to tighten it back up.

I suppose your set up is different from mine, as I use an aluminum pressure plate instead of the stock one. Mine was warped so I upgraded to a thicker aluminum one. Spring pressure is adjusted a bit different than stock, and the nut ends up about even or a bit protruding from the pressure plate for easy access with an offset wrench.

What makes the bike easier to get into neutral, backing the adjuster bolt out more or less? I think less. I only back mine out about 1/8 turn that gives me more clutch movement off the friction plates and makes it easier to get into neutral (I think). Maybe I have it backwards?

Hmmmm
If you don't give it enough slack you might keep more pressure on yer throw out bearings

The furter in the adjuster rod is the more movement there is of the clutch pak in and out, correct? I get a feeling like the clutch is dragging and not disengaging totally when the clutch lever is depressed. That makes it hard to find neutral so I am wondering if the adjuster rod should be screwed in or out a little to free up the clutch pack more.
Thanks.

With mine, neutral was easier to find and I get plenty of clutch movement with the pushrod adjusted out 1 full turn and it's less stress on the chinzy throwout bearing which is about the diameter of a nickel with nine tiny needle bearings in them. The best throwout bearings are the earlier ones that have ball bearings in them. They require a 14" pushrod thats a little bigger at the inside end - that's what I'm upgrading to this winter when I also fix the valve seal leak.

Funny, but in this case you have to upgrade to an older part. But it's way more substantial than the late model throwout bearing. All the shovel guys I know have them in their trannies and I've never heard of one failing.

When you back the cable off, then take the derby cover off and adjust the clutch. You are settin the starting point for the adjustment. You need to back off 1/2 of a turn so you don't have pressure on yer throwout bearings.
When you put the derby cover back on. You are adjusting the clutch and the slack for the clutch in the cable adjustment.
If you still have problems after these adjustments. You may need to use a se spring or replace the clutch packs.