Oil or No Oil?

I am close to reassembly of my engine and I guess I have never given it any real thought until I read a reminder given to make sure that you oil the head bolts to ensure accurate torque readings. Good Advise or Not?

torque is relative to resistance when tightening a fastener. without going into the specific shear or ep ratings of a lube to make it simple if there is no lube between metal surfaces they try to gall creating resistence. ARP makes assembly lube but the torque spec is usually lower because the shear spec is higher. I have used 30 wt oil forever or engine rebuilds for a veeeeery long time with great results. follow your specs in manual, threads and base of fastener should be lubed with recomended lube.( long to short dont do it dry) it hurts LOL

Torque values are different for lubed or dry, to get the proper stretch on the fastener need to follow the manual.

I would do a drop or two on the threads, make sure the threads are chased and clean.

+1 especialy on torque to yield bolts lube the clamping surface as well arp lube is good but oil. Is fine . That's what service manual says follow it.

Huh, I haven't seen it in the SM. Of course it has been a little bit since I have looked at it as I am waiting for the heads to be done. Thanks Paul.


Thanks Buckhorn and Bambidee.....

well service manual says 20 w 50 hd oil but im sure any weight will do lol

Can I use synthetic??

I called Amsoil and ask them about using Amsoil synthetic oil to break a new motor in. Amsoil engineers told me it does not make any difference.
The SE Harleys come with Synthetic oil in them from the factory.

The last motor I did on my 08 bike, I got a Oil can and filled it with Mobile ONe systhetic 20-50 oil.
And the parts that needed lubricating when put together I squirted oil on them
Not the threads that got locktite on them oh.
You should have a HD manual showing you how to put the motor together and the torque values for each.

synthetic oil is great if the manufactuer of the parts recomends it [ BUT ] most of the piston and ring sets we buy are old school. a good old dino base oil is the best in my book for break in. i also believe in having your poop in a group #1 finish assembly and do it right the first time ,dont say i will take care of it later # 2 ride it like you will use it most of the time. nice easy roll on throttle , no lugging and nice de,accell will seat rings the best. change oil and then twist the wrist after a couple hundred miles.

Why are we talking about engine break in? I'm not...

You used it to break n yer bike on Dino Oil. Then you can run what you want.
But synthetics has come a long way. You can break in yer motor now with synthetic,
What some folks worry about is dino oil seating the rings.
Amsoil says they will seat just as good with the Synthetic oil.
And when you put yer motor together, you better take some oil and wipe yer cylinders down before you pull them down around yer piston and have oil on the sides of yer pistons. I turned the motor over with the back tire to move the parts around before I cranked it.
Soak yer lifters in Oil before you stick them together.
Take a squirt can of oil and squirt the heck out of yer oil pump and yer cams and pushrods.
I even put some oil on my rocker parts when I put them together,
Forgot what all the manual said. Guess Old age is kickin in pretty hard.
The manual is like the bible for doing the motor, unless you do it every day

A couple of drops on the threads and a smear on the underside of each bolt head will do ya.

exactly,dont forget to smear a bit on the underside of the headbolt (BTW,know the thread aint about it,but use dino oil for first 1000 miles of break in)

Yep I agree, if no locktite goes on a bolt. Put some oil on it so it torques down good. I would replace al the head bolts with new ones. They ain't that expensive
The ones you have , have already streached.

Thanks JoshBob....