Painting heat shields?

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send them to me, i can also airbrush on them...........just sayin..

I'm like an old crow, I like em shiny.

You could paint them, first you'd need to scuff them up with some 0000 steel wool so the paint has something to stick to then clean them up very very very good no finger oils, etc or the paint won't stick.

DEI makes exhaust wrap, paint, and silicone spray for the wrap.

Used it on my Bassanis to turn them black

Motorcycle Pipe Kits

For the least cost just sand with a 400 grit sanding sponge, clean, then use a wire hanger to hook the pipes up to a branch on a tree (don't want overspray inside) and paint, use short quick strokes so you don't get runs, let them dry up good, a heat gun is good to help then put them on the bike.

I'll get some pictures of the old AR3's I redid for a project, well a keep my big arse out of the kitchen pantry project, been sitting around for 8 years, blued, in bad looking shape, put them on the Heritage to break in the paint LOL they did fine, back one bubbled, so I didn't get it clean, just took a brass wheel on the bench grinder, cleaned it off, scrubbed it with some denatured alcohol, repainted, and its golden.

Get a pick of the bassani's too.

The paint is at any parts store $6 or $8 a can, one should do it all....

100 ft should be plenty. I used the 50 foot roll and it did two bassanis without
a problem, they are shorter pipes.

You should be able to get the silicone high temp spray by DEI at any auto parts store although it's not necessary to use, it just extends the life of the wrap.

Now when you go to wrap you will want to wet the wrap, it makes it easier to install, and you need to get a tight wrap, I know you had a hand problem so take your time and pull firm to get it tight.

Overlap will be in the instructions, 1 inch wrap is the best, so I hope that's what you got, 2 inch works takes less wrap but is harder to get that nice line and around curves.

The curves eat up the length as you overlap some on the inside of the bend.

I go around the pipe once at the header flange outlet end about 1 inch down as you need to have room to be able to move the mounting flanges so you can mount the header to the head. Did you get the metal zip ties. if not a standard band clamp will do but it will rust and discolor from the heat cycles. So you might want to get some of the metal ties from a parts store, Advance carries them. They can cut fingers easy and you'll want a pair of needle nose or standard pliers to pull them tight.

Once you start and get a couple of wraps, use a large zip tie to clamp it down and hold in place so you don't have to hang on to it.

Practice makes perfect don't be surprised if you have to back off some work, watch the overlap on the bends, no open areas and you'll be fine.

I would err on the side of too long is good if you plan on cutting it before you wrap, frankly I don't, I wrap from the roll then cut after the first pipe, you can't make a short hose longer....

Damp is key, not soaking wet, damp... Also if you got the black wrap, unless you like black fingers and hands, pick up some surgical latex gloves at a CVS, that stuff gets everywhere.

Here is a decent link to how to do it...

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