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Pipes Still Popping After Rejet

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Peyts, Jun 1, 2007.

  1. Peyts

    Peyts New Member

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    I finished my Stage 1 with the Screamin Eagle High Flow Air Cleaner kit and a rejet of the carb... I changed out the jets on the carb, but did not do the drilling of the carb to change the idle mixture, as I didn't think that this was really necessary.

    When I took it for a spin last night, I was disappointed as the pipes are still backfiring, and the bike still takes a while to warm up.

    I checked the FAQ section of this site... there is indication that the bike may be still running lean - even though the jets are changed - as the idle mixture has not be altered.

    Just wondering if anyone has had any similar issues... and also if anyone is aware if drilling the carb and altering the idle mixture will actually solve my problem. I don't really want to drill the carb unless I have to.

    I am riding a 2006 Sportster XL1200L, Vance & Hines straightshots slip-ons exhaust, Screamin Eagle air cleaner kit, stock carb.

    Cheers, gang! Appreciate any advice! :confused:
  2. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Drilling the carb isn't as bad as it sounds, since it is only to remove a small plug covering the factory adjustment screw. Adjusting the mixture screw will often improve warm-up, idle, and off-idle performance while reducing coughs and stumbling that occur in that circuit.

    If you are experiencing exhaust popping primarily during deceleration then the culprit is more likely an exhaust leak or exhaust that is mismatched to your bike. If the head pipes are not getting a good seal at the exhaust port or if you have loose fitting mufflers, then cooler air drawn in will cause popping. Another cause of exhaust popping is reversion from pipes that are open (no baffles) or too large. This is quite common and I see it often on bikes with open style long fishtails or drag pipes.
  3. Peyts

    Peyts New Member

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    Thanks, brother. So do you think that I should do the drilling part? Is there any advantage?
  4. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    yes, get the plug out and adjust the idle screw. adjust it as per instructions, if you have them. if not, screw the adjuster in until it just seats, then back it out 1 1/2 turns. you will need to modifiy a small screwdriver to do this...take the shortest screwdriver you have then cut the handle soyou can get it between the case and insert it into the hole where the screw is....those cheap dollar screwdrivers are great for this. let the bike warm up and see how it does. adjust the screw about 1/2 turn at a time between test runs. you can do this on the side of the road, in a safe place!!!! i put a mark on my screwdriver for a referance for adjustment.....piece of cake!!!!
  5. Peyts

    Peyts New Member

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    Thanks, Chuck! Got 'er done. I only got to take her for a short run today, but will be doing a longer ride tomorrow. Will let you know how it works out.

    Cheers! :)
  6. Peyts

    Peyts New Member

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    Went for a long ride today... AND WHAT A DIFFERENCE! WOW! The drilling was a piece of cake, and correcting the idle mixture was quite simple. And now... lots of torgue, HP, and speed... AND NO MORE PIPE-POPPING! Cheers everyone... as usual you've helped my correct a problem on my bike. Damn I love this forum. What a group! Cheers! :cheers:
  7. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    glad we could help.......the next round of long necks is on you!!!! :) ;)
  8. Peyts

    Peyts New Member

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    Sounds fair... but can you guys handle CANADIAN beer?! :) :roflmao: :cheers: :drunk:
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2007
  9. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    if it cold and wet.........no problem!!!!:drunk:
  10. Peyts

    Peyts New Member

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    SOUNDS LIKE A DEAL, CHUCK! (Just make sure you bring them bouncing boobs with ya, OK? :roflmao: )

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