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Quetion on tuners kit

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by jlb0038, Jun 22, 2013.

  1. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Hello,
    Was wondering if you could answer a question? I bought a used 2006 Sportster 1200 that had S/E airkit and Vance and Hines Short Shots. The bike ran good except for a feeling of hesitation in the low end/mid range. I replaced the Short Shots with stock exhaust headers and a pair of Cycle Shack 3" Slip ons. I still had that feeling that something was missing in the low end/mid range. I ordered and istalled the CVP tuners kit. The previous owner had a #45 pilot and #185 main. The mixture screw had already been drilled out. I put in the recommended #46 jet and the CVP #185, and needle. I also replaced the slide, as it was drilled out bigger than the 7/64. After re-installing and finding what I think was an intake leak ( I had to have the mixture screw out 4 turns to run right). My backing plate when tightened would cant the carberuetor causing a small leak at the bottom of the boot. I used a couple of washers and now it seems to be going in straight and I'm now at 3 turns out and it seems to be running good.
    My question is now it takes a long time to warm up. I have to have the choke out half way for a good 10 minutes or the bike will cough and stall. Even when warm it takes awhile before it will runs smooth. This is just for the take off and low rpms. It runs great at higher rpms (2500 and higher). Any ideas??? Before I could put the choke all the way in after a couple of minutes and it would run fine. I've already did the cleaning of the passages as the website recommends, but still the same. I was thinking of putting some liquid gasket around the boot, just to make sure there wasn't still a leak???? or does it take longer to warm up because its running richer now???
    Sorry for the long post.
    J.B.
  2. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Update:
    I must still have a vacume leak. I took it out this morning in the cooler air. It runs great with the choke out half way, but after 10 minutes of riding I put the choke in and it runs like crap. Coughing and sputtering. Like others say, I have to gently ease out the clutch while giving it gas or it will stall. Lots of surging at low speeds. I rode for a 1/2 hour and it wasn't as bad after 1/2 half hour, but not good. When I hit half throttle it takes off.
    Guess I'll take it all apart again.

    Forgot it is a stock 1200.
  3. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Check the accel pump this time. ;)
  4. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Thanks for the reply. I checked it like the website says. I twisted the throttle with the motor off and it shot gas into the carb. Seemed like a lot of gas, so I think its ok. Do you think I should replace it?? I've had fuel injected bikes since 07, so I'm not up to speed on this carb thing.


    Update: I took the carb apart and check everything. put it back in, using lots of spark plug grease, which I didn't use before. Everything went back in good and the seal felt good between the carb and intake. I was very careful when putting back on the backing plate and it didn't seem to move that much complared to what I thought before.
    Something interesting was I pulled my plugs to change them and the front was close to fouled and the rear was close to that. Now I'm wondering if the #46 jet is too big?????? Even though it ran good when the choke was out????
    Any thoughts????
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2013
  5. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    MIght be you fouled them running it, clean them up and see if it runs better

    plugs are not expensive,
  6. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Definitely replace the plugs first. Just to verify, you said this is a 2006 XL1200, but do you know if it started life as a 1200 or is a 883 converted to a 1200? If a conversion you need a completely different needle. The 04-06 1200's used XB heads that flow differently than earlier 1200's or 883>1200 conversions.

    Having to run for extended periods of time with the enrichener (choke) out can be an indication of vacuum leaks. It's possible that the flange gaskets (manifold to head intake ports) have gone bad and are leaking at that point.
  7. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Its back together and seems to running better. I'm out 3 turns on the mixture screw for it to run decent. It is not a conversion, 1200 from the factory. Maybe I should change out the manifold gaskets. They were fine before messing with it, maybe taking the carb on and off was too much for them.
    Is the CVP needle supposed to be shorter than the stock?? Mine is about 1/16th to 1/8th inch shorter than the stock with the washer. Was I supposed to put that washer on the new needle, because I didn't.
    Thanks for the help.
    J.B.
  8. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Correct, do not shim the needle. The stock needle you had in your carburetor should be imprinted with the code N4NN on the side, and is fairly long in length, though not that much longer than the new needle.
  9. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Ken,

    I sent you a message through the website, but thought I'd ask here too. Does your cv rebuild kit come with the intake flange gaskets? It looks like them, but not sure. Might as well get the rebuild kit and do the accellerator diaphram while its off. Thanks, J.B.
  10. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Hi JB, yes the rebuild kit I stock includes a set of flange gaskets for the intake manifold. We don't make this particular kit (from CyclePro) as we do our other CVP parts but stock this kit for those looking for an economical gasket/rebuild kit.
  11. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Thanks Ken,

    Well, last night had same issue. Lots of carb popping and surging even at higher rpms. 3000 rpms in 2nd gear and the bike surged like crazy. Went straight home. Pulled off the carb again and removed the intake manifold. I noticed that there was a ring of gas on the gasket surface, both front and back. I'm guessing if gas can exit the flange then air can probably get in. I'm crossing my fingers... I pulled my brand new plugs and they look terrible. Extremely lean this time. Even had burn marks on the ceramic electrodes. . Hope I didn't do any piston or valve damage. Only rode it a total of 5 miles like that.
    Not the best pic, but you can see the burn on the ceramic. the electrode is powdery white.

    Update: Just ordered my rebuild kit. Looking forward to getting this thing running right.
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2013
  12. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Update: Installed the new manifold gaskets, accelerator diaphram, spring, and o rings, and new mixture screw o ring from kit I got from CVP. Bike seems to be running good. My only concern is that the mixture screw is again out at 3 turns. It only needed to be out 2 3/4 turns with the #45 pilot jet that was in there before and it didn't need the warm up time it does now to run smooth. I don't think it had a stock needle in there, because I couldn't see any letters on the side of it. Its brass colored with a small circlip in the 3rd notch from the top and it had a small washer that went under the circlip. Like I said before it is about 1/8 inch longer than the CVP needle with the washer on it. Will the shorter CVP needle cause me to have to have the air/mixture screw out more????

    Thanks for the quick shipping..

    J.B.
  13. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Well after all my issues I may have found out the problem. Hopefully, someone has heard of this. The bike has been doing the same thing. Lots of popping through the carb until it gets warmed up, even at 3 turns out on the mixture screw. I decided to take it on the freeway today to see if there were any issues with the main. On the freeway it was running, but not great. Hesistation and two or three coughs through the carb. It would accelerate, but not anything special. After about 5 miles on the freeway it started coughing through carb pretty bad, almost wanting to stall, so I thought maybe its running out of gas. I switched the petcock over to the reserve position and immediately the bike stop coughing through the carb and began running good. I got off the freeway and no coughs when taking off. It now felt rich when taking off. Drove around town, got back on the freeway for another 10 miles and no coughs. Got home and readjusted my mixture screw and now I'm out 2 1/8 turns and it taking off smooth with no coughs (with the switch on reserve). Anyone heard of this?????? Is it that simple as I just need a new petcock ????? Thanks for any replies....
  14. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Yes. the stock vacuum operated petcock going bad is a common issue. As you are alluding to, most definitely go to a gravity fed one. I have one my 96 Sporty and I absolutely love it! You may need to rejet again. Glad you got it nailed down. :D
  15. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    Thanks for the response. Yep, gonna order me a pingel right now. Do you know if the Pingel has a place for the stock vacuum hose? If not do you know what I should do with it? Thanks. J.B.
  16. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Plug it off, there is no need for it. Plug it off at the carb as well.:cool:
  17. Ripper01

    Ripper01 Member

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    My 02 has a voes that ties into the vacuum line. If your's does too,just take off the Y pipe that goes to the petcock. Leave the voes hooked up
  18. jlb0038

    jlb0038 New Member

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    I appreciate the responses. Thanks again. I'll update after the new petcock is in.
    J.B.

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