Random popping

I have a 2000 883 that I bought a deluxe rebuild kit and a basic tuners kit for. When I installed the kit the bike had open drag pipes and the kit made it run a lot better but it had a flat spot just off idle that I couldn't get rid of. After trying different adjustments and all of the jets in the kit I decided to put baffles in the pipes. The baffles, 45 idle jet, and 175 main jet have produced the best results. It actually runs the best that it ever has but randomly when I pull away from a light or a stop sign it will pop and almost die when I roll on the throttle. It never did this when the pipes were open and it is driving me crazy because it is not predictable and usually happens at the worst possible time.

I have been in the carb multiple times and cleaned it each time. I have replaced the exhaust gaskets and intake seals. I also modified the airbox by drilling a series of holes along the bottom to allow more airflow.

Do you have any suggestions for what to try next?

Thanks

Scott

Have you checked the accel pump diaphragm?

I installed the new one that came in the rebuild kit.

I assumed that the seals were leaking and replaced them. I thought that I was careful with the diaphragm but it could be pinched. I will look at that.

Is it possible that an 883 is under jetted with a 45 idle jet? I accidently left my enrichener about 1/3 out and it ran perfectly all the way home.

best way to tell is to change to a 46 and see what happens.

I'm having the same problem with this year and model bike with drag pipes and Kurakyn Mach 2 air cleaner.

ill check for vacuum leaks and also not all 883s came with tach so i have no idea if its idling correcting at 1500 any suggestions for proper idle? i like the lop lop idle better

Another thing to check is the float level. On my 883 the *dealer* (who shall remain nameless) installed the drag pipes and Dynojet kit for the previous owner. They put the jet needle retainer/spring seat back in upside down (!!!) and had the float set too low (lean) by at least 1/8". I swear it was a miracle it ran at all.

You also need some kind of back pressure (baffles) in those drag pipes in order to get a decent carb. tune because of reversion. Even the little short "can opener" baffles will be enough to help.

850-950 rpm idle (recommended) is just right above a real lope at idle. Loping is not good for lower end rod bearings. Setting it high as HRK says above, is a nice way to keep it from dying if you find an intake leak. Mine was leaking so badly (not to mention the low fuel level in the carb. bowl) the idle wouldn't stabilize. 800rpm one minute, 1300 the next.

Check to see if the slide isn't lightly binding in the carb. body. A very small burr on the "wings" of the slide can make major headaches.

Ok hrk put torque cones in the drag pipes and that has helped considerably. I have some vacuum elbows that are cracked so I'll replace those and intake seal while I'm in there. Thanks again hrk!