Rear Disc Rotor Wear

The very outer edge extending for about 1/8" has some really rough spots around the entire perimiter. From there going towards the ID normal pad wear on the disc is showing light scratching (.002'-.004" aprroximatly) and I brake smooth wihout noise, chatter, or pulling.

I checked my pads and they look almost new.

Some H-D dude told me that it was unsafe to ride my bike because the brake pads will hit the rough edges and get ground down to pulp. I looked at him incredulously and asked why that would happen when it was evident the pads don't ever touch that part of the disc. His retort was that as the brake pads wear down to metal, then it would hit and cause problems.

Ah ha, says I. In other words the previous owner probably let things get away from him and the brakes got worn down until there was caliper to rotor rubbing and wear. He said yes, that may have happened.

IF that is the case, I shouldn't have any concerns until my pads start getting thin, then I was thinking I might get the rotor ground and/or lapped to smooth it out as long as (tell me how much) metal is removed.

I appreciate anyone's knowledgeable input. I'm sure I'm not the only one that H-D stealerships try to intimidate by fear into buying an expensive repair that may not be required at the time.

OH, he also told me my front tire was getting too worn and was also usafe because he came out with an "adjustable" thread depth gauge and it was starting to hit the red area on his dial. How do I know what depth it was set at? If you use the penny check on the tread like you do on a car, I have more than twice as much depth!

Thanks folks

1st of all, my Service Manual, Parts Book, and Owners Manual are in a white box with a lid in the drawer of my workbench right next to my............Refrigerator in the garage! that's spooky that you new that!

Duh, guess I could look in the book for the thickness, but guess I'm on the right track. Do you concur with my theory of why it's worn and why I can wait until I do a complete brake job to either grind or replace the rotor though?

As far as the penny, I can stick it in the tread up to President Lincoln's nose or beyond. Another unnecessary sale saved! Too bad the dork at H-D didn't just say "keep an eye on that front tire, it's starting to show wear", but then that would be being honest. Can't do that and stay employed at a H-D joint I guess. Too bad it has to be that way:gah: (Probably all on commission).

I'm not sure of miles. I have put just over 4k on it. When I bought it with 13K it was a realtively new tire. Because it had 13K on it and the tread looked really good, I'm sure it's been replaced. I will keep an eye on it.

Thanks again!

I agree with Cowboy, if its showing a little wear then go ahead and wear it out, you will know when that is, then take a look at whats out there and replace rotor and pads. Take a look at your options, I saw something new on Vtwin TV awhile back that was light weight and nearly bullet proof but I'll be darned if I remember the manufacturer. Maybe someone here can help me out on that. As far as the tire, watch your pressure, I check mine about every other ride especially if there has been a significant temperature change, but then I'm kind of a fanatic on maintenance and clean up, comes from years on a shovelhead I guess. AL

YEP thats the one. Thanks AL

the me880 tires have wear marks in them just like car tires I don't know about dunlops

I haven't seen a tire for motorcycles that doesn't have wear bars. The Standard rule with tire tread depth is at 2/32" of tread you should start watching your tires. Once they get to 1/32 depth they are considered unsafe because they lose the ability to channel water and also are thin to the point that the tread can't resist sharp objects. It's a safety thing that you shouldn't take lightly. When running at freeways speeds the tires heat up and when thin have a tendency to shed rubber. Seen a few good customers have gone down hard trying to get the extra 1000 miles out of a tire.
The disc brake rotor hase the minimun thickness stamped on it near the center of the disk. Normally the front rotors are .180" and the rears are .205". If you don't let your pads go to metal you shouldn't have any problem with the disks. I generally recommend changing them when the go below 1/16 of an inch.
The poor joe who is writing your service is just trying to do his job and point out the things that you need to keep an eye on. And yes, he might be paid commission for up selling parts, that's the american way of doing business.

VYBR8ER.

Thanks for your input, but I disagree about ther "Poor Joe". As National Sales Manager of a large company we sell by fact not fear. Looking at what and how he said things, inluding tagging and making me sign that my bike is unsafe is an attempt to make a sale based on fear and intimidation.

Had he been honest and advised me to watch things, as most everyone on this thread concurs, he would have gained credibility and future long-term business from me. Now he looses all future sales to me because he tried to make a fast unnecessary $500.00 sale but ended up with nothing.

I thought the American Way was truth & honesty. That has always worked for me and I sleep great at night!

All HD dealers are not equal. Some are staffed predominantly with "poor Joe's" and then there are some staffed with the real deal. The only dealers near me are 70 miles north (Big Spring) which is the oldest dealership in Tx. but still small compared to the freeway emporiums, and one 80 miles east in Abilene. It is a bigger dealer but if I have a question I just bypasss the kids and go straight to the owner who is even older than I am. One look at his motorcycle collection pretty much says it all. AL

Maybe just the rear tire was replaced. I know I go through about 2 rear tires for every front tire. AL

AHH SOOO! (velly intelesting)
Thanks!

Glad you're beginning to understand. Yes, the majority of accidents are caused by a maintenance issue which is ussually tires. The biggest thing I see everyday is customers who DO NOT check their tire pressure and then get upset when I inform them that the tread on their tire is cupped and they wore it out in 5000 miles because they don't put air in their tires. I check all 3 of my bikes every 2 to 3 weeks or before any ride where I plan to ride any more than 150 miles. I also do a quick safety check every time the bike goes out of the garage.