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S and S carb, engine bogging

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by whacker, Jun 8, 2007.

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  1. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    I'm getting a bog just off Idle,the accelurator pump does work.I have a 75 sportty with a S&S shorty "E".If I roll the throttle easy it doesn't do it,but I don't like to roll the throttle easy.......any idea's would be great.......
    whacker, Jun 8, 2007
    #1
  3. Peyts

    Peyts New Member

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    Did you try adjusting the idle and speed pins/screws on the carb? I have an 06's Sporty and that worked like a charm... not sure if you can do the same thing with yours.
    Peyts, Jun 8, 2007
    #2
  4. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    you dont state your ign. system, but if it has a mechinacal advance system, it could be dirty, sticking, and not advancing off idle.....
    chucktx, Jun 8, 2007
    #3
  5. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    You may need to adjust the accelerator pump travel screw outward to increase the spray/flow. Here are the instructions from S&S. I've also attached the original tuning instructions from S&S which includes illustrations for ease of identifying parts.

    Adjusting Accelerator Pump - Function of accelerator pump is to improve throttle response when rapidly opening throttle at low RPM and to aid cold starts. Pump travel screw, part #50-0039 (See Picture 35), regulates volume of fuel delivered by accelerator pump. During assembly,
    S&S sets screw for maximum volume to aid during initial start-up after installation. Turning screw inward or in clockwise decreases delivered pump volume. Turning screw outward or counterclockwise increases delivered volume.
    1. Warm engine to operating temperature.
    2. Turn pump travel adjusting screw inward or clockwise until screw contacts pump actuator arm, part #11-2377. This limits actuator arm travel and shuts off pump.
    CAUTION - Closing adjusting screw with excessive
    force may cause irreversible damage to screw threads in carburetor body.
    3. Perform intermediate and high speed jetting tests to determine proper jetting.
    4. With engine warm and at idle, blip throttle and note throttle response.
    5. Turn pump travel screw outward or counter clockwise about 1⁄4 turn at a time and recheck throttle response until engine no longer hesitates.
    6. Road test motorcycle noting throttle response at idle and at levels in 500 rpm increments from idle to 3000-3500 rpm.
    7. Set pump travel screw at point where best throttle response is noted with minimum pump travel. Minimum pump travel is recommended to conserve fuel, prevent
    spark plug fouling, and curtail black smoke from pipes when “blipping” throttle. Black smoke from pipes is usually an indication of a rich condition or excessive accelerator
    pump travel.

    Attached Files:

    kenfuzed, Jun 8, 2007
    #4
  6. CD

    CD Guest

    The S&S E has always been a lot of carb for an iron head XL. Especially if you're running drag pipes.
    Most times, I found it was easiest to nearly close the acell pump leaving just enough squirt to cover the lag between idle and transiton to intermediate circuits.

    You need to make sure the ignition is in good shape as mentioned.

    No intake leaks, burned valves etc.

    The E flows a ton of air literally more than an old irenhead can use effectively. So, whacking the throttle open quickly will always result in some bogging and worse if you run Drags.

    If you really want to make that Sporty run sweet convert it to a CV. Ken can fill you in what is needed.
    CD, Jun 8, 2007
    #5
  7. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    I have points with mechanical advance,I will check to make sure there not sticking(hopefully will have single fire electronic next year),I set the idle mixture screw to obtain the best idle,going to try to give accelerator pump more travel,and see what that does ...thanks for the info
    whacker, Jun 8, 2007
    #6
  8. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    CV carb seems like I'm starting my X-mas list early this year.I do agree that the S&S is too much carb for the bike,I run drag pipes,intake is sealed good and shouldn't have any burned valves.I'll have to talk to Ken about the CV carb...Thanks
    whacker, Jun 8, 2007
    #7
  9. CD

    CD Guest

    Bingo. Drag pipes plus Super E = bog city.

    Add a weak points ignition and it makes tweaking not fun :angry: .

    Try closing the pump screw totally and open it only enough to allow transition. Remember, whacking it open quickly will almost always give you big bog.

    If you do some searches on reversion you can see why Drag pipes aren't my favorite pipe.
    You can make life a lot easier by adding baffles, a welded washer, ar cones etc.
    CD, Jun 8, 2007
    #8
  10. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    I do have baffles in my pipes.Not a whole lot of pipes out there for a 75.
    whacker, Jun 8, 2007
    #9
  11. CD

    CD Guest

    You can try modifying some AR cones.

    They will work on the old exhaust flange style if you grind the lip off and slip them into the head pipe. only grind enough off so they fit into the lip of the pipe though otherwise they slide down the pipe. Been there, done that. :eek: :(

    This will help with the reversion which will help the bog issue.
    CD, Jun 8, 2007
    #10
  12. ringo912

    ringo912 Active Member

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    Hey Chuck, I don't see any problems with the point advancement on your avitar:D :D :D :p
    ringo912, Jun 8, 2007
    #11
  13. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    thanks.....;)
    chucktx, Jun 8, 2007
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  14. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    Chuck...those things partially covered with pink ,are they AR cones ?????? I got to get some.....
    whacker, Jun 9, 2007
    #13
  15. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Hey Whacker, let me know if you are interested in switching to a CV carb and I'll provide the list of items you need to get it done. It's actually a simple conversion that I've helped a lot of shovel and pan owners do and it works great. You can even stick with your S&S manifold by using an adapter.
    kenfuzed, Jun 9, 2007
    #14
  16. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    Thanks Ken...going to try some AR cones and put in single fire electronic ignition.The carb will be the next thing on the list.Do you think I could do the carb change over for around 500 bucks ? Al
    whacker, Jun 10, 2007
    #15
  17. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Depending on the parts you should be able to do it for half that.
    kenfuzed, Jun 10, 2007
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  18. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    Wow I thought it would be more!!!!!Went for a ride today and my mechanical advance broke...needless to say I pushed it for 3 miles to get home...can't wait for the electronic ignition...I'm thinking of doing it this winter Ken.We'll for 250 or so maybe sooner.....
    whacker, Jun 10, 2007
    #17
  19. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    I replaced the mechanical advance.....still got bog....bought some AR cones going to put them in this weekend...Ken I would like that list of parts that I would need for switching to CV carb...I don't like that bog...Got a window job so I'll have some x-tra money next month...If cones don't fix the problem will be looking into changing carb.....Thanks ....Al
    whacker, Jun 29, 2007
    #18
  20. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Send me a private message with your email address and I can talk to you more about sources for a replacement and what you'll need.

    For reference here's a basic laundry list of things required when changing to a CV carburetor.
    CV Carburetor
    kenfuzed, Jun 29, 2007
    #19
  21. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    I installed the AR cones and went for a short ride,it did help with the bog,Thanks for the info CD ,still looking at the cv carb...from what I read and heard that will help it run alot better,I still want to get electronic ignition also....
    whacker, Jul 1, 2007
    #20
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