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S&S 510G ??? Push Rods

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by charlieharley0057, Mar 14, 2007.

  1. charlieharley0057

    charlieharley0057 New Member

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    Hi all HELP:confused:
    Worries have crept in the back door.:eek:

    I am, as some of you may know, in the process of installing the S&S 510G cam kit but opted to stick with the standard push rods.
    S&S instructions say this is fine with the 510G. Now! The HD tech Book says that after reinstalling push rods you should be able to rotate the rods freely after the rockers have been tightened and the cams are at lowest point.

    Questions.
    1. Is this only the case with standard cams or what?
    2. Am I OK to continue with the rebuild or have I got a problem somewhere?
    Any thoughts views would be appreciated.

    Ps the tensioners where worn but still within the recomended useage at
    27500miles. but I had already decided if I was going in then the change had to be made. ;)

    Aye Charlie
  2. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Hey Charlie,

    I'm assuming you can't twist the pushrods by hand, and that's what you are worried about, right? Make sure you give the lifters time to bleed down. The lifters are filled with oil and when installing the pushrods they are expanded. Once they bleed down under the pressure of the pushrods you should be able to twist them. It's not uncommon in cold weather for them to take 20-30 minutes when first installed. Just don't crank the engine until then or you could bend the pushrods.
  3. charlieharley0057

    charlieharley0057 New Member

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    Hi Kenfused

    I have fitted the front push rods and turned the engine by hand then fitted the rear. the lifters had been out over night and have probably drained. Therefore I will replace the cam outer cover, replace the oil and allow the oil to settle. after that, should the rods turn by hand?:confused:
  4. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Only if you have the cam on the back of the lobe, if you don't then they won't spin as they are under pressure from the valve train.

    You need to rotate the motor so it's on the back of the cams then let it bleed down about 10 min and then check.

    BTW because you are using the stock rods and as long as you have the stock heads and gasket heights you shouldn't have a problem, the base circle (back of the cam) is the same as stock you have only 510 lift.

    If you were using adjustables the issue is you could over extend and then when you rotate bend a valve or rod.
  5. ReeseSS

    ReeseSS New Member

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    Make sure after you install the first set of rods, you wait till the lifters bleeds down before you rotate the engine to do the second.....more valves get bent that way!
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2007
  6. charlieharley0057

    charlieharley0057 New Member

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    Sweet

    Hi All
    Thanks for the answers:cheers: The problem was allowing time for the lifters/push rods bleed down.:eek: All Push Rods now rotate freely and the bike runs fine, I have run it up the road to bring the temp up to running temp and allowed to cool. everything appears to be A1. I have to wait till tomorrow to take it for a decent run out but will add a reply and let you know my views on the conversion on my return :cool:
  7. charlieharley0057

    charlieharley0057 New Member

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    Sweet

    HI All
    Well! Took the Heritage for a 250 sMiles:D round trip today and although, when, I set out it felt a little lumpy and I was aware of the changes to the sounds (Both from the engine gear and a new deeper exhaust note{ don't know why?}) Any way after a 100 sMiles I was used to the new sounds and the added power so I just kicked back and enjoyed the ride:cool:. For anyone considering the change I would say this is the way to go.:roflmao:
    A Big thank you to one and all for input and help :cheers: ride free and safe.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 18, 2007

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