Shellac type gasket sealer....

Anybody have experience using it on rocker gaskets and the paper type head gaskets? I am going to try "Indian" head shellac gasket sealer.
Thanks.

:gahnly on early fifties and sixtys motors have i used it . if its a jims or cometic gasket set no sealer is needed . if you use sealer on the head gasket surface it just aids in helping it blow sooner ! due to the uneven clamping. gasket surface should be clean and dry . wipe the face of the jug and head with a lint free rag spray the rag with brake clean and wipe both clamping surfaces . torque in multiple sequence to get even clamping . not to max torque at once! 10 ft pound at a time . alternate between jugs and wait 5 min . back and fourth . if done correct that shovel will seal . As long as the surface finish is nice and true . torque rocker boxes to spec they will seal and stay true . if you torque them to spec ! very little sealer should be used if you have to for any reason.

Thanks Paul.

"Shellac Gasket Sealer" wow! Used to see that stuff in my Dad's service station shop, that was in the very early 60's.

Thanks.
I'm just concerned 'cause last time I put the head gaskets on dry, they leaked.
What about Gaskacinch is that like shellac?

Head gaskets should be dry. You probably have warped surfaces. You ought to have a machine shop check the heads and barrels for flat surfaces.

Are you using copper head gaskets??They should be annealed and dressed....A MLS head gasket is the way to go with clean true mating surfaces....

When I replaced my front head gasket in February, I used a copper gasket with Gaskacinch. I steel wooled the gasket on both sides and cleaned with acetone, being careful not to touch the gasket surface after cleaning - handle by the edges. Then I applied Gaskacinch on both sides of the gasket. Went around the head about 4 or 5 times Gradually torquing the head bolts down every other one till I reached 65 ft. lbs. on each. Of course, check to see if your pushrods are adjusted correctly . . . .

Checked torque after a few heat cycles a couple more times. Only one bolt needed very minor tweaking. No problems since then. Ride easy for a while or you will risk blowing your new head gasket.

I've never had to replace my rocker box gaskets, but I would use some sort of sealer on them if I did. Over the years, the shovel motors do tend to get a bit warped here and there. Unless you want to tear it apart for resurfacing, I'd use some sort of sealer. JMO.

When you torque the rocker box nuts, use a criss-cross pattern and tighten the middle nut last. Go over them several times until you get the torque needed. The temptation is to overtighen these nuts - don't do it!

I think I will try this method, thanks.

How exactly do they check for flatness??

Did you anneal the copper gaskets first? I guess that makes them a lil softer.
On the rockers I used James gaskets with silicone on one side, that side goes up and I used the shellac on the other side. That stuff is like glue and is supposed to make a leak proof seal. We shall see.
Last time I used the blue silicone but I'm told, that is not a good idea. It or the gasket can squeeze out, it's too slipperery.
I think the shellac will work fine.

I'm told no silly-cone around the rocker boxes, it can seep out and go into the motor or the gasket pushes out before it dries.
I have seen the black goo used on inner primary bolts in lieu of safety wire and also used to hold gas line hanger to the head bolt. It's strong stuff.

You could prolly use it seal up that big crack.. in yer butt! :roflmao:

I've been chasing leaks on my shovelhead for 7 years now.
Hopefully I will have them all fixed this time. :gah:

Hey, that a good idea. Maybe I should just disconnect the oil pump?!
I can grease the brakes too, they squeal. :roflmao:

Or a piece of cardboard..