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Shifter arm replacement

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Hogdog, Jan 15, 2006.

  1. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Earnestine is on life support!!! Earnestine is a 1989 Ultra Classic Electra Glide. Her "shifter arm" is being replaced. The shifter arm penitrates the tranny case through what the HD service manual calls a "Sleeve". The new shifter arm has a machined surface and the tolarance with the old sleeve is pretty sloppy. Is the new sleeve replaceable, the service manual makes no reference to its replacement in the tranny case. It is pressed in, if it needs to be replaced how should it be done (without destroying tranny case and without removing case)? Maybe this is suppose to be a sloppy fit, I'm suspicious cause the new arm has a machined surface. Lessons learned, keep linkage fasteners tight or suffer this misery!!!

    Note: This is second attempt at a post, where did the first on go??

    Peace
  2. oldsuperglide

    oldsuperglide New Member

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    shifter arm

    u need to replace the bushing. you do not want a sloppy fit, it puts everything in a bind. I am not sure what type tranny you have. You should be able to pull the top off. Are talking about the bushing on the arm that comes out of the tranny to the linkage??
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2006
  3. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Shifter arm

    thats it, the shifter arm come through the case in a "sleeve" (looks mor like a bushing). The arm moves the shifter cam and is knurled on the outside end to take the shifter lever. Is this "sleeve" threaded or is it pressed in? The only way to get the shifter arm out (in) is to take the top off and remove the tranmission from the right side. The arm slides right out of the case. If this sleeve is threaded into the case I sure don't want to drive it out. The tranmission is a HD 5 speed forward- constant mesh type.

    Thanks for your help oldsuperglide, ;)

    Peace
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2006
  4. oldsuperglide

    oldsuperglide New Member

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    replace shifter bushing

    if you can get the shifter arm out you will be able to tell how to get the bushing out. My best bet it is a press fit, I have'nt found any threaded bushings on any bike I worked on. But there is a seal on the out side,that will be a press fit.
    Be careful not to drop any washers,thrust washers, or anything else, that would not be good. I don't have a manual on that bike. it is alot of work removing the tranny. rebuilt mine had to take out 3 times, its like new, now.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 16, 2006
  5. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Shifter Arm

    Thanks oldsuperglide, I knew you were out there somewhere,

    I had to take the transmission completely out to get the shifter arm out, If I drop a washer it will land on the bottom of the transmission case, can you believe that!! The only thing keeping the shifter arm in place is a washer and expansion keeper. Once that is removed it slides out of the spacer towards the inside of the tranmission case. It became very obvious after I explained in great detail the entire operation of transmission to local HD parts person just to get the part number of the bloomin shifter arm I needed a parts manual, so thanks for the suggestion.

    I guess in the life of every hog the time comes when you decide if you gonna keep and care for her or trade her in. Can't give up Earnestine, so I guess I'd better get a parts manual!!!

    Guess the best way to get this "spacer" (i have been callin it a sleeve) out is machine a drift pin and tap it out. What do you think?

    Thanks

    Peace
  6. CD

    CD Guest

    Are you talking about the 37114-79 spacer? You should always use a new one as it does wear against the case. The purpose of the spacer is to keep the distance between the shift pawl base and the shifter arm far enough apart to prevent binding etc. It will float and out some but not a lot. If new spacer (37114-79) is sloppy in the case you will probably need to remove the case and have it bored and bushed.

    Ain't it a bitch when the weakest point in a five speed pawl shifter spring breaks and you have to do a complete teardown! Is that great engineering or what!
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    16 years is pretty good service don't cha think LOL

    Yep pull it all apart for a 2 cent part....

    Sounds like you have it under control, now while it's out time to pop in a 6 speed lol
  8. oldsuperglide

    oldsuperglide New Member

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    shifter arm

    CD is right. I guess you know to use a new seal. I bought a new seal kit from a guy that just wanted to get rid of it, been using that kit for years. And not only for tranny's !! If you can get the tranny out you should have no problem with the rest of it. The first time i did tranny work, dropped more than a washer, I always take it out to work on it.
    The best manual I use is www.spammer.com(best prices, some times 50%.)

    Oldsuperglide! What part of no SPAM don't you get? For the last time, do not post links to or refer to competitors on this BBS or you will be banned. You seem like a knowledgable type and we would hate to loose you but read this before posting again.
    http://biketalk.directparts.com/showthread.php?t=1815
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 16, 2006
  9. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Shifter arm

    Thanks CD,

    Oldsuperglide convinced me part numbers would be a great help. So actually its a 33114-79. Its quite snug in the case, It looks like the only way to get it out is with a hammer and drift pin. Guess what, the HD dealer told me to go at it with a torch, blow me and earnestine all to hell!!! The fit between the shifter arm and the "spacer" is pretty loose, so I guess I replace the spacer. But, you did get me to thinking about them dern springs, I would hate to do this again soon. I thought maybe I would machine a tool to fit inside the spacer with a sholder the OD of the spacer. Hopefully a little pressure with a 9# tenderizer will convince it to come out! I'm careful cause I have worked on aluminum castings before, can be ugly!!! What do you think CD, bout the time I get all those connections cleaned and she starts I'm hit with this!!!!

    Note to Hotrodking:
    You can't beat the ride on the old lady, the best!!!!
  10. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Shifter arm

    Thanks for the references and help oldsuperglide, situation looks better already..
  11. CD

    CD Guest

    Since you willl have the gear set out (again):( I would do what you are thinking and make a tool that will allow you to pull the spacer out. You should be able to use it to install the new spacer. Mark the location of the original or note it's depth before starting! Take a good look at the shifter pawl and check it for wear on the fingers and the point of contact for the spring. You can round off the point of contact for the spring to reduce stress. If the spring shows any wear at all replace it.
  12. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Shifter arm

    Thanks CD,

    The new shifter arrm came with a new pawl spring. The lower heavy spring looks ok, lot of meat to break, so i thought I would chance it and not replace it. I think an ordinary bolt with arm OD and head turned just shy of spacer OD should do the trick. Thanks for the tip about pawl, had'n thought of that.

    Peace
  13. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Shifter Arm Spacer

    :) Well, Earnestine's shifter arm is in!!
    For others (history) this method worked very well.
    1. Buy replacement spacer
    2. Measure the length of spacer extension in the case
    3. get a 12 inch 7/16 threaded rod, some heavy washers, a 3 x 1/2 inch pipe nipple and a couple 7/16 inch nuts.
    4. Push the rod through the old spacer
    5. Put pipe nipple on the threaded rod on the inside of case followed by washers and nut. use at least two washers with grease between them.
    6. Put new spacer on rod on the outside of case followed by greased washers and a nut. The rod will act as a guide for the new spacer.
    7. grip the end of the rod with the most valuable tool in the tool box, the vice grips to keep rod from spinning. Caution: do not let the new space rotate on the guide rod.
    8. Screw the outside nut and force the new spacer into the case wall. Mine released with a sharp crack noise (the good kind!!!).
    9. check measurement of spacer protrusion in case. (you will have to remove nipple to do this). and adjust as necessary.
    10. This method felt good (no sharp blows), Earnestine approved, so it must have been the right way!!!!!

    Also I used the same setup to replace bushing in the primary cover for the forward shifter shaft.

    I am so glad whoever advised me to replace the spacer (I think it was CD). The new shifter arm AND spacer gives a real nice fit, no slop, like new, Thanks for the tip.

    Peace :)

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