Sportster gear grind

I have a 1991 Sportster. Last riding season I started having problems after it tipped over on the clutch side of the bike. I was parked at the time and not moving. I went over with it so I thought that I had offset some of the impact. My wife reminded me that we had a few wierd starts when it slipped and made a noise but nothing that showed up again until it tipped over. Since then the problem has become constant. I had the top end rebuilt before starting on the following work.
Heres what I have done to it over the winter, I replaced the shift shaft and redid the pawl adjustment, no luck, I installed new shift forks, shift drum, and pins. No help. I replaced the entire clutch release mechanism and have adjusted the clutch from one end to the other. Dismantled entire clutch, friction plates slightly worn but not bad. I have looked at the gears and they all look OK as near as I can tell. All the bearings in the tranny are also new. I am losing riding days and losing my mind.

Please send any comments, suggestions etc. I need to figure this out.

Don't Know, But By What You Describe You Got A Nasty Problem. I Don't See How Drop'in Your Scoot Like That Would Cause That Kinda Damage. The Problem Might Have Nothing To Do With That See'n You Pretty Much Narrowed That Area Down. I Don't Completly Understand Your Problem. Is It Slip'n In The Gears Or When Your Try'n To Start. Maybe It's The Starter. Good Luck, Send More Info Theres Alot Of People Here That Have Alot Of Info!

I should have been more specific, I am just disgusted with the whole thing.

It starts fine, the grind is when I put it in first gear as soon as I start to let the clutch out. Second through fifth works fine, but can't use first. This bike isn't a beater just so you know, the guy I bought it from was a tech and I got all the records. Takin to a shop is not an option, finances won't permit, so I am on my own. I appreciate your input.

It does it hot or cold, and yes it grinds most of the time. Once in awhile it will slip into first, but rarely.
I don't understand what is happening inside enough to know what might be causing it. I know I am showing my ass, but I am a self taught mechanic and enjoy doing my own wrenching. I just am on the learn as you go program. I am just hopin someone out there has an idea that leads to my answer.

I'm no mechanic but you can try this. (especially on sportys, never owned one) Put the bike in first gear, with the cluch in try to start it if it begins to walk it may be like chuck said a cluch or cable adjustment. If the bike has braided lines I herd someplace that you need very little or no freeplay in the cable adjustment. (Don't ask me why it just one of thos things I herd or read) I know how frustrating Problems like this can be especially when ya start to grab at straws. Let us know how it goes there are a lot of people here that have forgot more that I will ever know. Hang in there.

I have adjusted the clutch by the book and redone it to make sure I did it right.

I went out and started it in gear a few times. It made the grinding noise and didn't walk a few of the starts. Then I started it in first and it did walk forward with the clutch in.

I am still chippin away at this. I got a chance to talk to a tech at a local HD dealership. He said that it may be a problem with the gear, I told him I have had it out and I thought it looked OK. I realized that maybe if I had a brand new gear next to it I could see a difference or not but the bike is a 91 and parts wear. I ordered the gears and I will let you know what comes of it. I am going to keep at it until I get it. I want to be puttin my money in the gas tank for a change.

If it creeped forward in first with the clurch pulled, it is doubtful that the gear is bad. Jumping out of gear, notchy or jumpy would be a sign of tranny trouble.

Take your clutch apart and inspect the steels very carefully. Is there any discoloration? Bluing? worn spots?
All it takes is one small warp and you'll have this problem. Lay the steels on a flat surface like a plate of glass and try to slide a feeler guage under the steel all the way around. If it goes in, replace that steel.

Look at the fibers carefully, are there any broken points or chips?

Check the diapragm spring carefully for wear or cracks. Look at the basket and the hub. There should be no free play in or out or any wobble.

Ya know, I laid them on glass and just tapped on em. I didn't realize that you had to be that fussy. I figured if they didn't rattle on the glass they were OK. There is a little discoloration in a few of the metal plates. I am going to tear it back apart and look at it your way. I'll let ya know.

Well, I had already ordered and paid for first gear and the counter gear when I read the reply about the clutch. I figured since the bike is older and I had a tech tell me the gear was worn down pretty good that I would bite the bullet and not cancel the order.
I tore the bike down again. When I got it apart, I noticed that the detent plate had gouges dug into the side of the plate that faces out, but could not see anything that might have caused it. I picked up a new plate and installed the new gears.
The test drive results were: Now the grind is gone if I downshift. If I stop without downshifting it grinds in first and will not go in. I have to take off in second.
I am planning to put a clutch kit in next. Any comments on clutch kits? If anyone has any input let me know.

I am going to fix this if it kills me.

I am a Sporty owner as well and I know a lot of guys have issues with the trans. One of the main reasons for clutch drag in a Sporty is having too much oil in the primary. You should be able to see the oil just touching the bottom of the sprocket with the bike level.