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Stage 1 exhaust ?

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by tomcat, Mar 19, 2010.

  1. tomcat

    tomcat New Member

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    hello,

    Just purchased the stage 1 kit. What is considered stage 1 exhaust? I have the stock a/c and the stock exhaust but it is drilled. I am considering installing the 46 pilot and the 190 jet with the mentioned set up. Will that do, or should I go to a 195 main? Is the drilled stock exhaust considered (free breathing)? I do plan in the near future to put the big sucker a/c set up on which I would then go to the 48 pilot, but what main would it need with the drilled stock pipes?



    Also, in the very distant future I plan on going with a big sucker a/c and the samson true duels with baffles. Is that considered stage 1 exhaust (free breathing)? And what set up for that should I use. The 48 pilot and 195 main? Or because I would have the baffles in should I go with the 190 main.

    thanks in advance.
  2. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    tomcat welcome to the site , what year & model bike are changing up ?
  3. tomcat

    tomcat New Member

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    Doh!

    sorry, that info would be helpful huh.... It's a 2000 FLSTC Heritage classic TC88.
  4. tomcat

    tomcat New Member

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    Doh!

    sorry, that info would be helpful huh.... It's a 2000 FLSTC Heritage classic TC88.
  5. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Don't drill the stockers,

    Tests show it does nothing for power, sometimes kills it..

    Plus if you state goes to enforcing rules where the pipe needs the
    MFG number on it... you can slip them on for inspections

    Best bet

    Cycle Shack or

    Khrome Werks Get the Slip ons, go to the products link, then mufflers,
    also checkout the factory store for discounts.

    SOund and work great on a stage 1 and can handle stage two.
  6. tomcat

    tomcat New Member

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    stockers are already drilled. bought it that way.
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    well then change out the baffles. you can make a bit more power doing it that way you don't want them empty...
  8. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Considering you still have the stock a/c and the pipes/mufflers are stock except for the drilling, I recommend starting with the smaller of both pilot and main jets supplied and go from there.
  9. tomcat

    tomcat New Member

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    Well today I think we set a record 80 degrees. So I decided to get the stage 1 done. I cleaned the carb. put in the 46 slow, 190 main jet. And I have 2 things.

    1. I have a fuel leak coming out of the accelerator pump rod boot. Every time I blipthe throttle it comes out around that rod boot. I suspect the diaphragm as I cannot see any other seal in my maint. book. the bike is a 2000 FLSTC with 6900 miles. So probably dry rot on the boot or perhaps some carb cleaner got in it from the fuel bowl when I was cleaning it.

    2. I have the mixture screw out 2 3/4 out before I stop getting any carb farts when I blip the throttle. Wondering if the 46 is still too lean? I will recheck this after I get the pump leak fixed.


    also, I must add that I adjusted the float according to the manual. Carb tilted on its base 16 degrees, (between 15-20) I found the float .030 low (.480). So I adjusted to the mid level .430 (specs are .413-.453) could that be the issue? Maybe I should put it back to .480.
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2010
  10. tomcat

    tomcat New Member

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    Update. The accelerator pump diaphragm was torn almost completely around. Probably dry rot for not being road much. I've replaced it. Leaked checked good. Got the idle dialed in. Now I'll have to continue tuning and looking at the plugs, but that will have to wait as it's raining now and will for the next few days.

    I've also double and triple checked the float level and is still good.
  11. steveb

    steveb Active Member

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    Raining today but supposed to be dry and sunny tomorrow.
  12. tomcat

    tomcat New Member

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    Re: UPDATE

    I tried the EZ mixture screw and I was not impressed. It was very loose as some here have found. So I've went back with the stock screw. I have stock A/C, stock pipes for the most part. Have 46 pilot, 190 main.

    Because I couldn't get it to stumble with the idle set at 1000 rpm, I've tried the HarleysRL technique of setting idle speed at 1500. It dropped 100 rpm at 1 turn from bottom, and I also couldn't get it to run rough no matter how many turns I turned it out. So I set it at 3 turns out, however I feel that is a bit rich so I'm still playing around with turning it in .25 turns at a time every ride I go out on and see how it performs.

    I'm having a bit of trouble finding a clear cut sweet spot , but I feel I will end up around 2 to 2.5 turns out.
  13. tomcat

    tomcat New Member

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    Well ended up at 2 1/8 turns out. 3 turns was way too rich. 2.5 it ran good. No carb farts when blip the throttle or when taking off. However, when down shifting or when at a stop light at long idles when I blip throttle it would snarf which seemed like the plugs were loading up. So I kept turning the mixture in an eight of a turn until that all went away. at 2 1/4 it was better, but 2 1/8 its running great. All the time during this, I was re-adjusting the idle. I've only put about 80 miles on and the plugs look good, but I'll be looking at them again.
  14. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    sounds like your getting it dialed in!!!! each bike is different, that is why the trial and error on the adjustment is needed..........also, that is half the fun!!!! tinkering with mechanical stuff!!!!!!!!! lol

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