still farts!!!!!

hello there! my wife has a 2006 883 low with just under 4000 miles! I have installed a 48 slow jet and I think 175 main jet turned mixture out 2 turns from bottom. when I 1st start her and hit the gas it farts! I noticed the engine side of slide is well scarred from all the farting! lol I am planning on putting a better breather and cycle shack slip ons on her and see what she will do. is it I am just not giving her a few minutes to warm up? I live just south of Memphis,tn so we can just about ride all year if no ice! rain doesn't bother me! any help be great! thanks

Mine needs to warm up about 10 minutes before it is ready to move, and will still sputter once or twice until fully warmed up. Of course there is frost on the ground...

48 slow jet sounds a wee bit big for an 883. Anybody else think so?

I know one rider here in N.C. that runs a 48 slow and a 180 main in his Sporty 883. Some shovelhead owners run a 48 or 50 slow. You may be running a tad lean so try turning your mix screw out another 1/4 turn or so. If it still farts, turn it out another 1/4 turn. Experiment.

If you let it idle TOO long, there's a possibility of fouling your plugs. You have to adjust for temperature changes - longer warm up time in winter - shorter in summer. For me, two or three minutes is usually enough and I don't crack the throttle until the bike is thoroughly warmed up. Idling with the enricher open too long is what fouls the plugs. The enricher (choke) shouldn't stay open for more than a half a minute give or take. Again, experiment.

I didn't know farting causes scarring LOL.

I agree with Roadster Guy and Cowboy. I let my Sportster warm up about 5 minutes before I take off. I also think that the 48 pilot is way too big for that 883. The main is probably close. Change pre-ride routine and see what happens first.

42 pilot is stock for an 883...If you need a 48 pilot on an 883 with stock air cleaner,I'd say you have an intake leak...which could contribute to the farts....but you do have to let them warm up,you can get carb farts until it's up to temp...

Made a mistake. The guy running a 48 slow & 180 main has a 1200cc Sporty. I run a 48 & 185 on my 1200cc shovelhead.

Being relatively new to the forum, after reading the aritcle about continuous coughing and farting of a members Sporty, I couldn't help but recall a friend of mine and his 06 1200 custom. He too had the coughing and farting problem. Threw all kinds of money at it at the local dealership, no improvement. Accidentally we found the orifice on the low speed jet partially plugged. After finding out the correct orifice diameter, we used a welders cutting tip cleaner and cleaned out the orifice. Runs fine now.

That is a good tip with the tip cleaner.

Thank You......
Caution is the key word here though, the tip cleaners are designed to "clean" a torch tip, therefore they have a slight filing effect and can enlarge a jet orifice easily.

yep I agree great tip! the only problem is the cv kit came with a new pilot . and a 48 is a rather large jet to begin with . feeds my big bore twin cam with over a hundred horse . now what a lot of forum members don't realize that retarded timing will also make a 4 cycle motor cough out the intake and they think its a lean condition . map sensors and voes switches are over looked quite a bit . they live in a very crappy area and are pounded with heat and unburnt fuel . the vacuum diaphragm gets very week and slow to respond . now throw a long duration cam and pipes at it . with a motor that has low vacuum . and the map and voes goes out of scew even more . also the smallest of intake leaks also throws the map sensor off as well and the voes if so equipped also . things to consider when you have the carb off to do a service . think about it most of those sensors have been in these bikes since 1996 . and have not been changed! ill spend 40 bucks on it . and yes they do go bad with out setting a code!

That was my next question, do they get out of spec, degraded readings without tripping a code? Guess you answered it, Baggerpaul. So this winter when I replace the intake manifold gaskets on my Roadster, would you recommend a new MAP for peace of mind? Can the MAP sensor be safely 'Scoped with the bike on a stand or would you need a road test with real world load demands for the diagnosis? Of course if it is less than $75 I'll just put one in, less hassle than all that diagnostic oscillscope crap. Bike is an 04, so its been a decade on that wee little sensor.

They can be scope out you can also look at it with a graphing volt meter .but an actual bench test is better its a 0 to 5 volt sensor so if you apply 20 inches of vacum to it you would be at the lowest end of the scale key on engine of put vacum at sensor with a hand held pump slowly realease vacum watch graphic should be a smooth gradual rise in valtage no spikes till it hits 5 volts.also. sensor should hold vacum at all times indefinitely. Tip on intake seals lube all portions of the seals with vasaline before install as you would an oring .allows for adjustment and easy install during torque settings. If you dont have vasaline use some sort of light grease. Never install dry .it will leak again at some point.

Thanks for the tip, baggerpaul. With it disconnected and in my hand would I be able to measure resistance for smooth transition as I apply the vacuum?

na do it with voltage . ohms is inconclusive ! the harness is long enough off the sensor to back probe the wires .

Sorry for hijacking thread, rebeltitanfan. Thanks for the info, baggerpaul. guess I was hoping the lazy way would be OK..