Super B

Hey Igot An 80 Xl And Am Looking For Advice On What Jets To Run Pilot And Main. Stock Motor Except For Drag Pipes And Super B Carb. Backfires Through Throat Of Carb Between 2500 And 3000 Rpm

S&S Super B

I run a super B on my Pan Shovel and just rejetted and rebuilt the body. It works great now!! I have the tech pub I can send you. give me your email address and I'll get it to you now!
ChopperChad

Installation and Jetting Instructions for S&S Super B Series Carburetor tech. help (608) 627- 8324. Turn idle mixture screw clockwise closing it counting number of turns to fully closed position setting should be 1 1⁄2 turns. Turn screw idle speed screw counterclockwise until it no longercontacts carb body. Next turn it clockwise until it just contacts body. Then continue turning additional 1⁄2 turn clockwise, slightly opening throttle plate. Check fuel needle and seat assembly to be sure it works properly. After initial startup turn rpm screw to original idle position. Engine backfires in carb this usually indicates lean condition and engine must be reprimed. If there is no response after three kicks or if engine pops in exhaust pipes it usually means mixture is too rich. Leave switch on and slowly open throttle 1⁄4 turn with each successive kick until engine fires. Turn idle mixture screw clockwise leaning mixture until engine starts to die. Next turn screw counterclockwise until engine starts to die. When screw is positioned about halfway between these points or about 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 turn out from lean side of adjustment range it is set correctly. Whenever intermediate jet change is made idle mixture screw must be readjusted. Troubleshooting Tips : engine will not idle: Improper idle mixture and/or engine rpm setting. Intake manifold air leak. Sticky timing automatic advance mechanism or other ignition problem. Foreign material in air and/or gas passageway in carb causing flow restriction to idle/intermediate circuit. Clear holes with forced air. Do not use wires or drills to clear holes. If sizes are altered air/fuel ratios of idle and intermediate systems will be changed resulting in poor performance and irreversible damage to carburetor body and intermediate jet. Turn on ignition. With throttle closed or slightly cracked kick engine through. If engine fails to start immediately slowly crack throttle (just enough to barely open butterfly) and continue to kick or engage starter until engine fires. After engine starts leave enrichment device on until engine has warmed sufficiently. If necessary jockey throttle slightly to keep engine running. Motorcycle may now be ridden. Troubleshooting Tips - engine will not start: Fuel supply empty. Weak or no spark - discharged battery or faulty magneto. Plug gap too wide - we use .022 to .025 plug gap on point type ignition engines. Improper ignition timing. Tight tappet adjustment. Improper idle mixture and/or engine rpm setting. Enrichment device well feed hole in bowl plugged. Clear hole with forced air. CAUTION - Do not use wire or drill to clear hole. If size is altered starting system will be changed resulting in irreversible damage to carburetor bowl. Improper diagnosis of rich or lean mixture condition. If engine Enrichment device plunger not sealed causing excessively rich mixture. Be sure device is fully disengaged (in down position) allowing plunger to bottom out and seal passageway. CURE: Lift and release plunger several times letting it "snap" to closed position to fully seat and seal against carb body. Intermediate System Intermediate range is used most often under normal riding conditions and begins right off idle and operates up to approximately 3000-3500 rpm or 50 to 60 mph depending on gearing. Intermediate jet is reached by removing float bowl assembly. Road test bike, being sure to ride it far enough to bring engine and oil to normal operating temperature. Re-check idle mixture adjustments to be sure setts are correct with fully hot engine. If "popping" or "spitting" (backfiring) occurs in air cleaner, this indicates lean condition and intermediate jet must be changed to next larger size (size is stamped on end or side of jet). Change jet accordingly and repeat road test. Smallest intermediate jet that eliminates this condition should provide best gas mileage. Whenever intermediate jet change is made, idle mixture screw must be readjusted. Gas mileage and throttling characteristics may also be determined by personal riding habits. Snapping throttle open in lower rpm ranges is inefficient and uneconomical because intermediate system is bypassed. When intermediate system is bypassed engine momentarily goes lean (from lack of fuel from intermediate) then rich (from excessive fuel from main). In effect, engine uses more fuel than it should. Engine will respond better and be more efficient if throttle is rolled on and intermediate has time to properly engage. High Speed Circuit or Main Jet High speed circuit begins around 3000-3500 rpm or 55-60 mph and operates to maximum attainable speed. Main jet is reached by removing bowl plug. Size of metering hole in main jet in thousandths of an inch is stamped on end of jet. Main jet size is best determined by testing at drag strip, because maximum miles per hour and rpm are best indicators of actual horsepower engine is developing. S&S recommends that high speed jetting be done at drag strip. Dragstrip Procedure: Warm up engine enough to begin testing. Make run noting engine rpm and final speed. Increase or richen main jet size .004 larger and make second run. Again, note rpm and final speed. Continue procedure until mph falls off. Decrease or lean main jet size by .002 to gain best (maximum) rpm and mph. When making runs, do not strive for ET's but for consistent miles per hour. Street Procedure S&S uses what we call "RPMing" method to determine correct main jet size. Hard acceleration is evaluated up to the rpm where horsepower peaks and begins to taper off and gear shift occurs. Main jet that makes engine accelerate strongest or rpm through gears quickest is correct. Warm engine to operating temperature. Accelerate rapidly through gears noting how quickly and smoothly engine reaches rpm level where pull of engine begins to fade and gear shift occurs. If engine backfires in carburetor and sputters or "breaks up" and/or dies during acceleration, increase or richen main jet. S&S SUPER B JETTING CHART: Engine Stock Stock Big Twin Strokers
Displacement CH Strokers Mild Strokers 84" or Larger
Idle Mixture Screw Setting turns 11⁄4 to 13⁄4 11⁄4 to 13⁄4 11⁄4 to 13⁄4. Intermediate Jet .265 to .032 .0295 to .033 .031 to .036. Main Jet .062 to .070 .068 to .076 .072 or Larger size .004 larger and road test again. Note engine smoothness and how easily engine reaches rpm level where gear shift occurs. If engine runs flat and sluggish or "blubbers" or will not take throttle, decrease or lean main jet size .004 smaller and road test again. Note engine smoothness and how easily engine reaches rpm level where gear shift occurs. Continue changing main jets until one is selected that makes engine accelerate or rpm through gears most quickly and smoothly. Our experience has taught us that a jet about .006 smaller (leaner) than correct one will make engine "break up" and quit. A jet about .006 larger (richer) will make engine "blubber" and miss. Troubleshooting Tips for Intermediate & High Speeds - Engine will not run at steady speed or rpm: Restriction in fuel supply system - gas tank vent plugged, gas petcock too small (Stock H-D petcock is usually adequate, but might require running on "reserve" to provide adequate supply for big inch engines. Alternative - switch to Pingel brand high flow petcock.), needle and seat not working properly. Faulty ignition system - fouled plugs, worn points, defective coil or solid state module, improper ignition timing. Incorrect intermediate and/or high speed jetting. Foreign material in air and/or gas passageway in carb causing flow restriction. Clear holes with forced air. No air cleaner used or air cleaner used is brand other than S&S. Some air cleaner designs restrict air flow so that carb cannot draw air freely as needed. Also, other air cleaners may obstruct bowl vent hole on inlet end of carb and change bowl air pressure. NOTE - Bowl vent hole passageway leads to cavity above fuel in bowl and is designed to equalize bowl pressure and atmospheric pressure. If high or low bowl pressure relative to atmospheric pressure develops, engine may run erratically. Air horn used without shrouding bowl vent on end of carburetor body. NOTE - Bowl vent should be shrouded to insure uniform atmospheric air pressure between cavity above fuel level in bowl and area outside carburetor body. If high or low bowl pressure relative to atmospheric pressure develops, engine may run erratically. Valve train defect - bad valves, sticky valves, bad or broken springs, improper clearances for high lift cam or, defective camshaft with improper valve timing. Too much gear - not enough horsepower to pull gearing. Notes on Intermediate and High Speed Jetting: Carburetor jetting and spark plug color - While spark plug color may be used to help determine carburetor jetting, S&S recommends that our instructions be used as primary jetting guide and that plug color indications be used only as secondary aid. We have found that different brands of gasoline, gasoline additives, engine heat (due to ignition timing), and type of plugs and heat range used distort plug color drastically making plug reading difficult for average tuner. Also, new plugs usually require road test of 10 miles or more to properly develop color which means that quarter mile tests may not be long enough and hence, not always a good indication of carb jetting. Drag pipes:For Ironhead Sportster engines, 17 ⁄8 " O.D. drag pipes with straight cutoff end 28" to 30" long will work well with almost any camshaft and/or other performance modification. 2" O.D. drag pipes are not recommended for any applications except very large competition engines. The use of drag pipes is not recommended.

my eyes are tired

Now THAT'S a post!!!

I vote that Chopperchad gets credit for 10 posts with that one and give him extra credit in typing class too (or did he just use alot of paste ?!?).

SISK

Truly superior riders are those who use their superior judgment to avoid those situations where they might have to use their superior skills.

reply to SISK

Cant take the credit brother, give it to the bros over at S&S. They've never done me wrong! and much to advice of others, I'm still runnin' my "B"!!!
ChopperChad

hey bro, I know thats where I got mine but I went to look for ELGREASO, but they changed their site layout and I couldnt find them. so I copied the one I saved...man it took forever to delete words until it fit within 10,000 characters!!!!!
cc

SS info

thanks brother man!
i appreciate that!
hey can we post pics here?
cc

Post a pic

Hey cc,

Post a pic of your ride Remind us what the days of kickstarts, carbs and chokes were like. Now days you need to be computer saavy to work on your bike. Downloads,internet hosted tech sheets, ecm's, flash memory, online parts, message boards etc., etc.

I took my bike in to be dyno'ed a couple months ago and the guy used a screwdriver to take the seat off so he could access my pc, but other than that, he didn't touch another tool. Nothing but keystrokes and mouse clicks and my bike was tuned up with improved hp & tq.

SISK

I don't make jokes. I just watch the government and report the acts. - Will Rogers

CC's ride

here it is in original form looks much different now. same powertrain, just on a swingarm frame now.

two more

heres another
cc

shorter pipes

man this bad boy has an attitude now!
91 ci stroker
the tanks are going bye bye end of July as my other tanks (yjay match rear fender) are being welded.
cc

Chopperchad's ride (last photo... for now)

heres yet another incarnation of my scoot!
CC