synthetics...crank fumes and oil return vs HP output/increase

anyone have any problems with synthetic oils not letting roller bearings 'roll" but instead they they slide around the bearing and then get flat spots. Read it but know of no one.
Another question if I drill and let the oil drain from the top of the engine to the bottom thru a hose back into the lower case is there really any increase in hp. I know people who have done this and now a local shop has a dyno.. so gonna take the stage one in and get a base run first and for air fuel mix more importantly, then remove the dirty crankcase air fumes test then possibly drill another oil return to keep the crank out of the oil down flow to to see if I get three HP from both that would be 6hp for free. But main thing is the air fuel..don't want it to lean... anyone done these and dyno... I am gonna out of fun unless there is not much postive feedback.

Hey there Hotroadking

I've read your explanation of Syn vs. Dino in a couple of threads and even read the material in the link you provide. I totally agree with everything you say....................except one. I agree that 20w50 is 20w50 whether it is dino or syn. Those numbers refer to the weight and flowability of the oil. I agree that syn holds up to heat better.

But..........everything I have read tells me that syn oil has a much greater viscosity. Viscosity is the ability of the lubricant to cling to the metal, if not penetrate the surface. If you coat metal with both types of oil and then allow the item to just sit, the syn oil would still be present long after the dino oil has drained or otherwise left the metal.

The friction between two metallic surfaces causes the oil to leave those surfaces and if not replenished by the lubrication cycle, the metal eventually runs dry. Syn oils cling longer under all conditions than dino.

My conclusion from what I've read is that the real value in syn oils is in it's viscosity above other qualities it may possess.

I read all your input and really enjoy and appreciate your knowledge. Hope you keep it up.

Visosity & cling?

Actually, viscosity is the ability of a liquid to flow or resist flow. For example, 20W-50 will flow a lot slower than 10W-30 will. The ability of a an oil to cling to metal parts is inherent to the type of oil and Synthetics tend to cling much better than Dyno oils do. I have never heard or read of a specific additive that increases the ability to cling.

The API viscosity rating is what we use to determine the ability of an oil to flow under specific conditions. Multigrade oils were developed to help eliminate the need to change from 30W or 40W oil to 10W or 20W in the winter.
Phillips 66 released TropArtic multi grade oils in 1954 and for many years muti grade oils were hotly debated.

I remember the debates at the local gas station over straight vs. Multiviscosity oil and later deterent vs. non-detergent oil. There was an old mech. there that swore multiviscosity oils would fail and burn up the bearings and the deterents would cause the sludge to break up and block the small passages.

Sound familiar?

Even though I was a kid I remember this and later how freaking much sludge could be in an engine that ran non-detergent oils.

Thanks again CD for a very clear and well illustrated explanation. I stand corrected. Viscosity is not the word for the quality I was trying to describe. Maybe cling is a suitable word.

I heard a fellow biker at the local HD shop telling about servicing his bike before a trip from Houston to Daytona. He was in Pensacola Beach before he realized he had forgot to re-fill his primary. Luckily, he had always used Synthetic oil in it. He claims there was no damage of any type and that was a year and a half ago.

I remember the advent of additives being sold around the late 60's and early 70's which claimed to have this "cling" feature. That's about the time STP and Chemguard and a few others entered the market. As a short term salesman for Chemguard products in 1972, one of the tricks my regional manager used was to fill a lawn mower with Chemguard, then drain the sump and mow a lawn. I never tried it with my lawn mower.

CLING-A-BILITY

Skids or slippery when wet?

Just another wive's tale. Corvettes use rollers and have used synthetics for years as did the Taurus with the Yamaha HO engine.

Not sure how you would accomplish much of anything. Where would these holes be located? By draining back into the crankcase you would most likely loose HP like HRK said. There have been all sorts of articles written on routing crankcase gasses back into the engine and how it hurts power. Funny thing is, I have not seen a single Dyno run that demonstrates a marked, measurable power loss on a street bike. While there is a sound argument for recycling the vapors causing a loss in power there is a more pressing need for us to understand the EPA will crack down sooner or later and in some states smog inspections will be the norm.

thanks!!!!!

thanks as usual for all the info HRKand CD as well as everyone else.
The thought behind the oil drainage is to keep the oil from covering the crank anymore than it needs to be from its own lubrication system thus less resistance(even though it is oil) the more power you'll get. Anyways that is a short version kinda like running in water ankle deep vs. running in water knee deep. Either way it is not gonna happen on my bike.
ps. You still gotta/should change the syn at the same intervals but there will be LESS breakdown between changes is what I get from this also correct?
Never put it in a HD before.

what ever oil you use just change it at the suggested oil change and you will be fine.